Once installed there should be no difference between mitred, or even a simple straight polished edge in terms of propensity to chip. Regardless of using a mitred or just a regular 'square edge' the best way to mitigate the chances of chips occurring is by chamfering the top edge by a minimum of 2mm (the bigger the chamfer the less easy to chip). Having said that if you have a very small chamfer, if chips do occur with use it's fairly easy for a stone mason to come and polish the chips out by increasing the chamfer. Another thing we do that is perhaps not standard on the inside of sinks is do a slightly more rounded chamfer regardless of the outer edges as this seems to reduce chipping at the place it's most likely to occur. I imagine concrete performs differently but leaving a pointy edge would chip incredibly easily on most stones hence the difference of opinion with Epic Artisan above. If a stone chips easily the problems would be for the fabricator as when cutting the stone if it starts chipping the finish will be poor. But, once its glued together, the mitre acts just like a regular edge. Best to ask your fabricator as some will refuse to mitre certain stone types if they have had issues in the past. Hope that helps.

Thank you so much for all your replies. I will attempt to comment. (laurakaplandesigns) Hunter Douglas Honeycomb Shades, for inside mount: The large center window of this 3-piece picture window, is too shallow for inside mount, and because of the mullions separating the three window sections, this would require three different Hunter Douglas shades. (apple_pie_order) Ripplefold: I have not found any ready-to-hang ripplefold, I have only been able to find the ripplefold strip that is added to the top of the curtain. As I have never touched a sewing machine, I want to buy something that is ready to hang. Also, because there is only 3" of clearance between the bottom window sill and the radiator, I think the Ripplefolds may have too much depth even at the bottom of the curtain near the radiator, as they seem to hold the ripple shape all the way to the bottom, better than pinch pleated do... (thiamom) Thank you for the note that pleated curtains may not interfere with the 3" clearance between bottom window sill and radiator... (newman1958) JC Penney was the first place I looked for curtain that will travel on a decorative traverse rod. I have not found anything on their website for this. If you see something on their website that I have overlooked, by all means, please send me the link, thanks. (libratravel) Do they make honeycomb shades that would be wider than the overall 107" width of the window casing? If so, I am very afraid of a Hunter Douglas price for that. I am also nervous this would be destroyed, ripped, pulled down by our two young children. LOVE the valance sample photo you included! In fact, if I could find a valance that is approx 120" wide, I would go with that option, and perhaps with a contemporary print vinyl roller blind hiding under it, but I have had trouble in the past trying to find an online source for a decorative roller blind. By the way, what is the difference between a "cornice" and a "valance"? (yvonnecmartin) Thanks for your suggestion about Venetian blinds. There are so many options out there. Do they make them large enough that it would cover this 107" wide window? Do you have a link you could send me of one that would work? (jhx1) Thanks for those great images. I especially love the top down/bottom up curtains. However, the link for those says they were custom made, likely a couple thousand dollars looking at them and that space. That is light years ahead of our budget. Also, the "off-the-shelf" top down bottom up (like the ones from Blinds.com), seem to have a max width of around 72" wide, I would need one large version at approx. 120" wide because I cannot inside mount...

I've never been a math wiz so this took some concentration. First I measured the height from the counter to the ceiling then the height from the counter to where the bottom shelf is recommended as an industry standard (around 18 inches). Next I figured out how high I could reach for something that would be on the top shelf. (Although I think resale is good to keep in mind it wasn't my priority - having a kitchen that worked and fit me was) I then measured the height of specific items I wanted on the shelves and the thickness of the shelves. I then took pencil to graph paper and drew it out. Lastly I took into consideration the visual. I wanted the line to carry through so I considered the height of the range hood, windows etc. I found a range hood I could hang higher as I hate that you often see hoods hung at eye level. (Who wants to be cooking looking square into a range hood?) Lastly I put tape on the wall so I could "see" what it would look like. I'm sure there's another way of sorting this all out but thats what worked for me. We used walnut for the shelving which is what we used for the counter. Our contractor made the shelving and bent the iron brackets. He was spectacular to deal with and built exactly what I had envisioned. The counter and shelving was sealed with Waterlox sealer. The counter came from Canadian Butcher Block, who were also amazing by the way. https://www.canblock.ca/  Hope that helps.

It could be maple or even walnut hard to tell. As for butcher and real life i love them they take a beating a light sanding and reoiling make them look like new and IMO in very contemporary kitchens adds some warmth. The kitchen in this pic is 17 yrs old i ran a catering biz from that space for 8 yrs. Those counters were left natural, so no sealing, and are stilling looking awesome. Wood has an enzyme that actually helps kill bacteria but only if you do not seal.