Look up the shower door manufacturer's instructions and follow them, please.

My shower has clear silicone

Clean, clean again, and finially prepare the surface properly by removing any film , residue, caulk and every spec of soaps or molds FIRST silicone will bury any remnants and the remnants will mold beneath the silicone while also effectiing its bond and watertight integrity. Acetone is the only solvent that will completely break down previous silicone so id use that and denatured alcohol and then dry it all out with blowdryer.

By now you likely have gunk under the tracks channels and id actually suggest taking it apart first and cleaning then re installing..

Silicone is the proper material but needs be done properly . The bottom track only gets siliconed on the OUTSIDE of shower and the side tracks get siliconed on both IN/ OUTER vertical sides only

Too often people either fail with siliconing where the weep system needs to breathe or by not first cleaning and preparing properly :)

You have to basically disassemble the frame assy. Big problem is the majority of caulks even silicone are NOT designed for submersion or continuos water use. It usually say it right on the label.

It is a big job and honesly I would change the door because you will start with all fresh pieces rathe then trying to remove the old caulk. I guarantee when you lift that bottom track you will see a wet mess of wet caulk. In your case you also have a tub which also collects water in the corners near the door. It is very difficult to remove old silicone caulk and you will spend at least an hour to do it right just removing it from the tub surfaces.

Try a product called Lexel in clear. It is the clearest caulk available. It was recommended to me by door installers and I have used it without a failure. The GE caulk is notorious for being bad in the tube as the are sold beyond their dates.

Lexel flows a lot easier then regular caulk and needs a bit of practice. I run a bead under the bottom track near each edge. Then I run a very thin bead on each outer edge. The corners inside and outside of the track also need caulking. REMEMBER to use as little as possible. That caulking tube should look almost full when you are done. LET THE CAULK DRY for at least 24 hrs.

Looking at your pictures there appears to be zero caulk on the inside. Guarantee if you remove the caulk on the outside edges of that tub it will be soaking wet. The water goes behind it and has no way to exit an that is why those corners by the tub are always moldy.

100% silicone is rated for pools as in submersion. yep hotbtubs, streamrooms saunas to boot

The hooz full of more misinformation daily

Thank you for the advice. Will try acetone to remove what I couldn't already remove. Hopefully we will stop the leaking. Thanks again!