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bubblyjock

Stripping and painting 15yo prefinished oak flooring successfully?

8 years ago

Back story: 1870s stone farmhouse, 6" pine plank 5/8" thick subfloor in dining room (actually, throughout the entire house except the kitchen), with prefinished 3" wide 3/4" thick high gloss oak laid on top, perpendicular to the pine, approx 15yo, in good condition.

We aren't happy with the oak for various reasons: (a) not huge fans of oak floors, (b) don't like high gloss, (c) we don't like pre-finished (plus, it's not appropriate for the house).

Local wood flooring guy - experienced in his field and has a good reputation (but had never heard of Rubio Monocoat* or any hard-wax oil finishes - he was all about urethane - so "old school") came and looked at it, and we talked about various options:

(1) retaining the oak; threading in matching oak where we've had a large 1930s fireplace removed, and then sanding it down so the little "v" grooves disappear and the boards appear flush - basically, take them back to unfinished - and then I'd paint it (I happen to like painted wooden floors, and it's appropriate for the age and style of the house).

(2) pulling up the oak, and replacing it with 6" pine boards running the length of the room. We could then either paint or Rubio Monocoat it.

(3) we could fix up the pine, but it's a sub-floor, you can see through to the basement, and it runs the wrong way (across the room). I'm pretty sure it's pine, but it's virtually knot-free, no doubt because of its age.

Flooring contractor says (2) is the cheapest option, but the pine, being new, will be plenty knotty. And from everything I'm reading here, fairly yellow; again, not a fan of yellow knotty pine.

So - what pitfalls should I be aware of if I choose to have him sand down and patch the prefinished oak, and then it can have a Rubio Monocoat (maybe bleach first, and I'd seek guidance here on GW for that, too), or a paint finish?

*Browsing GW earlier, it seems people have had issues with RM being applied correctly. In our previous house our very careful contractors, who'd never used the stuff before (no-one had in our area), applied it with ease and great success to an engineered oak unfinished floor. We all read the instructions and watched the many youtube videos beforehand. I don't think that's an option for the current flooring guy! Obviously as the home-owner we call the $hots, but there's no point in aggravating him beyond his area of expertise, is there.

Thanks - sorry for the lengthy post!


Comments (4)

  • PRO
    8 years ago

    You should find someone with hard wax oil experience, if, that's what you are really leaning towards. A newbie with good reputation will still make a newbie mistake.

    Someone with experience will properly prep the floor. Applying the product is the easy part.

    bubblyjock thanked G & S Floor Service
  • PRO
    8 years ago

    Before you look at option #1...make sure you have enough "meat" on the surface of the engineered oak to take off the finish. If they are 15 years old, you might have a VERY thin surface = can't take off the finish. Some of the older engineered floors only had 2mm of wear surface. I would find a heat register (or a cross section of the oak) and see if can measure the surface wood. You need 3mm or more to successfully take off the finish. But you may NOT get past the bevel.

    If you cannot get past the bevel (but you have enough to take off the finish), I would look at painting them. A slight bevel with a painted wood floor looks authentic to the age of the home. Slightly rounded board edges are common with homes this old.

    The sanding for Rubio = must be PERFECT. The application of Rubio isn't a big issue. It is the sanding. And an 'old timer' getting use to the perfection needed for Rubio may be very upsetting for you.

    bubblyjock thanked Cancork Floor Inc.
  • PRO
    8 years ago

    I think choice 1 is the best but I might also consider painting the floors without sanding them. You could use an adhesion enhancer, screen, apply a coat of primer and coats of paint after patching the hearth area. I'm not a real fan of bevels either but they might look decent on the painted floor.

    bubblyjock thanked Johnson Flooring Co Inc
  • 8 years ago

    Thanks so much, all of you, for your thoughtful knowledgeable responses.

    We found another flooring guy who was more flexible in his thinking, and we're going to keep the oak, he'll match boards and thread them in, sand so the bevels no longer show (yay, dust), and then I'll paint. He's also going to patch various other flooring through the house. I think we lucked out!


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