I like Pro Classics by Sherwin Williams because of how well it "Lays down". It looks like an oil-based paint because it levels out so well, and has a nice enamel like finish. It can be applied with a mini-roller to make it easier to DIY. Prime with latex primer like Bullseye123 or similar first.

Most latex paints have a "rubbery" feel, so I typically do not use them for furniture or cabinets.

I am not too familiar with chalk paint, but if it is "flat sheen, as the name might imply, then it will be more prone to picking up dirt and oils from fingers and will scuff and mark much more readily.

Thanks. I've heard that Pro Classics is great on furniture. I believe chalk paint can be waxed to a shiny finish. I'm just not sure how durable it is.

No chalk paint.

The better your prep the better the result.

I would use a satin. Last year I did 2 pieces with Behr Premium Plus satin.

Clean with dirtx.

Scuff sand.

Bullseye 123

2 coats of paint.

I brushed it on. Looks great.

If you aren't adept at painting, it can be challenging. cleaning, sanding, deglossing, priming, sanding, painting, sanding again, laying down even coats w/the brush,,,etc.

the only paints I recommend for furniture are the chalk paint, milk paint and if using the acrylic, BM advance, SW pro classic or GF Milk paint. Never use straight latex wall paint.

Chalk paint is simpler and can look the same. you just don't distress it!

this is how I did this one (I've painted over a hundred vintage pieces with every type of paint you can think of)

this particular one was done with ASCP in Old Ochre. 2-3 coats. It's entirely possible to paint with chalk paint and not do any distressing. you will need to fine-sand after every coat to get a super smooth finish.

I'm posting a close up shot so you can see the sheen. I only used a clear wax. If you don't want the distressed edges, then don't sand the edges and remove the paint! Just sand enough to knock of the rough feel of the paint. ( I would use a very fine sanding sponge for that purpose. just be careful around the edges.

if you knock off too much paint, just brush over it w/extra. not a big deal)

I obviously stripped and stained the top. I sold this one, but the finishes hold up beautifully. just use a coaster if you will be putting glasses on the top. wax is not waterproof.

another frenchie I did w/chalk paint. 3 different colors!

I use Pro Classic also. Just this year I repainted my bedroom furniture with the gloss white. Remember it take 30 days to fully cure. You can use it after the paint drys, but I would wait 24 hours. If I am placing items back on the furniture I place wax paper under the item for about 2 to 3 weeks. Just remember to use a good primer.

Thank you all. I might take your advice Beth and try the chalk paint. I think the finish will be a better match with the style I am looking for and I'm curious to try the chalk paint. How does it hold up though? How long do I wait to put items in it? Or do I try the wax paper as suggested with the acrylic paint?

Beth your pieces are gorgeous

Stephanie, this is no cure time. after waxing and buffing (like you would a car) it's dry. chalk paint dries quickly. within an hour or so. sand it smooth, then wax and buff. I use a nice clear BriWax and a cotton t-shirt. (do not skip the find sanding step. chalk paint dries rough. take a 220 or 320 grit and lightly smooth it, and it will have a huge impact on the finish coat and feel)

If you do an acrylic paint, it will take you longer and you will have to wait a week or so for it to cure. I've done many dressers w/that paint. They're a lot harder to do well. Especially the top where you don't want to see brush marks. I've given certain pieces 5-7 coats to get a smooth finish.

this is one I did for a customer w/glossy acrylic enamel. The top is like glass because I spent hours getting it that way. between the sanding and priming and painting, it took 4X as long as the chalk paint.

If you don't want a super glossy look, then choose the chalk paint. It will b fine for your bedroom. the finish is durable. every year or so add another coat of wax to the top if it looks like it's waning. Or, forgo the wax and do a clear coat poly on the top. either one will work.

@Beth H,

beautiful work; nice finish.

I use Behr water based Alkyd Enamel. It goes directly to a sound finish without a primer after a good cleaning and scuff sanding with fine sandpaper. If forms a very hard finish and levels very well, unlike most acrylics. Only down side to alkyds is that they have a tendency to yellow with age, although this Behr product is less subject to yellowing.