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joanne_levesque76

Soffit advice needed! what type of wood to use?

8 years ago

Our new build has wide soffits and we are leaning toward wood but are not sure on what type of wood would be most affordable and at the same time have integrity.


I have read where pine tends to warp and crack... fir is preferable but not sure of the cost...and cedar is the best but most expensive option.


I would sincerely appreciate any and all advice - and also on what product to use to treat the wood since we will be priming ourselves prior to installation.


Look forward to hearing some advice - this picture is a side entry area but shows the soffit area.


Comments (32)

  • PRO
    8 years ago
    last modified: 8 years ago

    There are a multitude of choices. I'm all for low maintenance. You're going to paint it, so choose a fiber cement product like Hardie or any of the vinyl products on the market. My last choice would be wood.

    Joanne Levesque thanked Solar Texas
  • 8 years ago

    Thank you - we were advised against cement products due to the width and potential warping...

  • PRO
    8 years ago

    Perhaps consider vinyl soffits and aluminum fascia then. It's light and very low maintenance. You're going to hate the wood when it comes time to paint it again.

  • PRO
    8 years ago

    What does your architect recommend? On the remote chance you do not have an architect, what does your builder recommend? And, where are you located, since climatic conditions are important?

    Joanne Levesque thanked Virgil Carter Fine Art
  • 8 years ago

    I think mine are cedar.

    Joanne Levesque thanked jhmarie
  • 8 years ago

    located in British Columbia - the architect specs called for metal soffits - the choice, in these parts, were not at all attractive for such a large soffit...hence the last minute hope for a better visual appearance without sacrificing integrity. Climate is cold in winter and hot in summer... not much humidity

  • 8 years ago

    We use vented Hardie. Virtually no maintenance!

    Joanne Levesque thanked Kris Mays
  • PRO
    8 years ago

    Have you discussed your concern with your architect? Seems like the solution is achievable with a simple discussion...

  • PRO
    8 years ago

    Material is one thing, another thing to consider is the profile. There's flat, V-groove, beadboard, and probably more I can't think of right now.

  • 8 years ago

    You can use practically any material. A soffit is very protected and isn't subject the same exposure as the cladding. Be sure there is proper attic venting though unless the attic has sprayed insulation.

  • PRO
    8 years ago

    Cedar actually isn't the best and most expensive option; for that you'd look at exotic species like ipe or cumaru—but they are a lot more expensive than cedar. Exotic's are as low-maintenance as it gets, comparable to metal in that regard. However, if you're dead set on painting the soffit, exotic species don't take paint well. Not that paint is required; the natural look is gorgeous.


    Joanne Levesque thanked AdvantageLumber.com
  • 8 years ago

    Azek now comes in different stain colors

  • PRO
    8 years ago

    I live in B.C. too and have very wide soffits that are wood and I am just now thinking of replacing with metal which IMO is a much better choice and virtually no maintenance and the squirrels don’t chew it.

    Joanne Levesque thanked Patricia Colwell Consulting
  • 8 years ago

    Patricia Colwell Consulting: Are there metal options that look better than others - the sample we saw the metal looked very industrial... we are going for the farmhouse look and would be happy to use metal if it appeared not so ... well... not so attractive. Perhaps there are varying grades of metal options we are unaware of?

  • 8 years ago

    I'm in a southern climate, but our porches that are 10 feet wide uses Hardie, so not sure why it would warp. Our soffits are Hardie as well. About 1.5 ft of overhang. Our house is now 10 years old.

  • 8 years ago

    We once had wood soffits and fascia . The woodpeckers and carpenter bees loved it! We did not like the " Swiss cheese" look. We replaced with vinyl.

  • PRO
    8 years ago

    Metal all the way. It's a great look, and a spot for something unexpected, like using a color. Which is why a decorative wood like cedar was used to begin with. Along with it's durability. You don't see it unless below. Haint Blue maybe. Or, use the roofing color, along with the facia in the same color, and the soffits, lends a chunky modern look.

  • 8 years ago

    I would use LP smartside vented soffit. It has options. Light, hardie tough, easy to work. Smooth surface no problem.

  • PRO
    8 years ago
    last modified: 8 years ago

    Everyone has made good suggestions but if you go with wood, I'd use clear douglas fir, backprime it and paint it with one coat before it goes up. It's more rot resistant than pine. Then watch how the water drains from the roof and if any of it runs over and down the soffit and fascia. Do not use fingerjoint anything!

    HardiSoffit would be my first choice for a soffit material, though.

    Joanne Levesque thanked Carolina Kitchen & Bath
  • 8 years ago

    It sounds really weird to say, but one thing I do not like about waterproof soffit material is that if you have an unseen leak, the organic soffits will fail early, indicating a problem area often before real structural issues arise.

    Joanne Levesque thanked dirtmechanic
  • PRO
    8 years ago

    dirtmechanic, good point!

  • PRO
    8 years ago

    While we are strong proponents of long lasting tropical hardwoods, given you are located in British Columbia we would recommend a Western Red Cedar since it is abundant in your area and more inexpensive. You could either let it weather to it's natural grey patina or apply a bleaching oil periodically that will yield a similar grey color and help preserve the wood. As these are soffits, cedar should last an incredibly long time. The two main enemies of wood in exterior applications are sunlight and water. As the material will be recessed up under the eaves, it will never have direct sunlight beating down on it nor have water standing it.

  • 8 years ago

    I'm in BC too. We are going with Aluminum, except for front entry and deck which will be Douglas Fir.

  • 8 years ago

    I bet the U factor on the cedar is far better than the Aluminum. Now here in the Southeast US, heat loss and mold resistance are really, really good things. Not so much up there, Ay?

  • 8 years ago

    Dirtmechanic: EH? Not AY! Thanks for your input!

  • 8 years ago

    I went phonetic what can I say eh?

  • 8 years ago

    The two main enemies of wood in exterior applications are sunlight and
    water. As the material will be recessed up under the eaves, it will
    never have direct sunlight beating down on it nor have water standing
    it.

    Joanne Levesque thanked xb18895681915
  • 8 years ago
    last modified: 8 years ago

    Actually I would just say moisture is the main enemy. Here is my reasoning. UV and radiation will crust wood without the presence of moisture. The best personal experience I have is using the wooden tools and staying in the wooden cabin of a gold miner who died in the Yukon of Canada around 1930. As an Alabama native who basically has to cut his way through the wet air in this state, I can tell you that the untreated tools and cabin exposed to dry arctic air were in a mummified state of remarkable preservation, even though I picked them up as they were lain since last use. The poor fellow had gone into Whitehorse and died, thus never returning to his gold claim.

    Joanne Levesque thanked dirtmechanic
  • 6 years ago

    Im builder and I live in Vermont. We use MDO ply sheet often. As long as painted (all 6 sides) it lasts a long time and in nice and smooth.

  • 6 years ago

    The issue is often mold that feeds on wood but also needs moisture and shade. Use Cellular PVC or composite.