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Shaw 3/8 engineered glued over osb... ? Cork underlay?

7 years ago
last modified: 7 years ago

So here is the situation. I have osb on my 2nd floor and feel stuck using the 3/8 shaw engineered epic 5" hickory that came with the first floor (surprisingly it wears and feels like iron actually even though I wouldn't pick it). An experienced installation co wants to glue it down with Fortane as permitted by Shaw...or we will also glue 6mm acousticork as permitted by shaw for sound dampening. I'd rather keep my ugly carpet than float the floor and have it sound hollow so floating is outterly. I was told by another installer that stapling is out.

I am reading so many conflicting things about gluing over osb. I am leaning toward gluing over 6mm cork glued down since the drywall in this shoddy new construction is paper thin.

Any experts out there see any red flags?

PS this is a dry area and I'll never change the flooring. And PS my osb squeaks like heck right now in one room


Thanks!

Comments (17)

  • 7 years ago

    Get rid of the too thin OSB and squeaks by instaLLING ply underlayment. Then staple.

  • 7 years ago
    last modified: 7 years ago

    Unfortunately that isn't an option for a lot of reasons....I thought about applying plywood over the osb but I'm not sure how that will help firm up the osb ... not that it only pops in one room. Wonder if I need to scrap this project. Sad.

    I do note that on the first floor, which is over a crawl space, they glued over osb and it sounds great.

  • 7 years ago

    How does the Luan make the osb less squeaky? It just firms it up so the floors don't flex as much? That may work...I would scrap the cork

  • 7 years ago

    I think maybe 3/8 plywood is the ticket...same price as the cork...will scrap the cork

  • PRO
    7 years ago
    last modified: 7 years ago

    If your subfloor is squeaky it may not be screwed down properly or may need a few extra screws. Somewhere in there is give and it's rubbing.

    Check the installation guidelines of the product you're using and check to ensure it states whether or not your product is warrantied over 3/8 plywood.

    This info will be available on the manufacturers website.

  • 7 years ago
    last modified: 7 years ago

    Thanks guys. I met with an honest contractor...said my shaw 3/8 engineered floors are essentially laminate they are so thin...and that by the time we install plywood over my osb I should find a 3/4 solid prefinished I like...which I have...we will glue to the osb...less labor cost for me- he said put the money towards the product.

    I feel good about it. For the same money, I might as well put down a decent floor. :)

  • 7 years ago

    I was about to save you money by telling you to float the cork over the OSB and then float the engineered hardwood over that. It shouldn't have ANY movement. The MOVEMENT is what makes something sound hollow. Cork removes the hollow sound. And if you have noise issues the cork is MUCH better than the 3/8" plywood. It will offer 2-4 dB. The 1/4" cork = 11 - 12 dB. That is TRIPLE the acoustic value of the plywood. And the squeaking of the subfloor is due to NAILS being used with OSB! OSB SHRINKS! And that leaves the nails exposed to rubbing. The rubbing of the wood on the nail will cause the squeak.

    And floating everything is MUCH cheaper than gluing.

  • 7 years ago

    No way in hades would I glue down 3/4” over the subfloor that you have. Quick waste of money with a tail light warranty.

  • 7 years ago

    Really? Not even if it is 4" beveled edge? Stick with 1/2 engineered or solid?

  • 7 years ago
    last modified: 7 years ago

    Oh goodness!!! So confused again... maybe floating the way to go over cork??? How the heck do you float cork? Can I use the click lock 1/2 or 3/4 solid or engineered? I

  • 7 years ago

    Fix the darn subfloor. It isnt optional.

  • 7 years ago

    Can you elaborate? I can't replace.

  • 7 years ago

    Cork underlay comes in sheets - like a beach blanket. The installer throws down the sheet (large rectangle that is 2ft x 3ft in size) and it SITS THERE. Nothing holds it down. Ok...gravity and the floor on top hold it down...but that's just getting into semantics.

    The installers LOVE working with floating cork. It takes 10 minutes to get it into place. No nails. No glue. Nothing. Just some shims at the walls to maintain the expansion gap needed for the flooring.

    Then the wood floor is floated on top. The engineered hardwood (which SPECIFICALLY STATES IT CAN BE FLOATING) is then laid. The installer applies glue to the tongue/groove of the plank (appropriate glue...not just any glue). The wood is NOT attached to the cork. The cork is NOT attached to the subfloor. This is a "floating" floor (floating means there is nothing holding one surface to another). The glue is then allowed to cure (about 1 day). And you have a fully functional floating wood floor.

    Done. Done. And done.

    Fix the squeaking of the subfloor FIRST (screws are used to do this...which is what *should have been used to lay the OSB in the first place - but I digress). And then go ahead and lay the cork (it just sits there) and then the wood floating on top.

    Much cheaper and much faster than laying new sheathing and then gluing/nailing wood over top.

  • 7 years ago

    Won’t is different than can’t.

  • 7 years ago

    Both in this case...can't afford it so won't

  • 7 years ago

    Then you aren’t ready to do the job if you won’t do it right. Putting pretty swirly fondant roses and pearls on top of a mouldy wedding cake is skewed priorities. Save more and do it right.