I know my first post was long but I’m basically wondering about the potential causes of these types of cracks and hoping it could be something minor. Our bathroom has had no other problems. And I’m not sure this is even a real problem.

We believe they did caulk the corners of the shower ceiling and wall tiles. But even these areas are cracking in places. The caulk definitely feels different than the grout, a rubbery type feel, with some “ give “ to it but obviously not enough to handle the expansion or whatever is occurring. The grout has a scratchier feel than what we hope is the caulk.

I’m not sure what to do at this point. I’ve tried calling the tiler but the job was finished and paid for well over 2 months ago. Anyway, no response so far. What can I do to correct this, if I get no response

If that is, indeed, caulked, you might simply have some places where not quite enough caulk was forced into the gap and it pulled away. That could happen if: 1) there was mortar squeeze-out in the corner that was right below the tile surface and the caulk was just in a thin layer, or 2) the caulker was moving a little too quickly and the joint wasn't filled deeply enough. You could check to see if this brand of caulk can be caulked over. However, if you want to do it right and have it look good, you should cut it out with a razor, use a screwdriver to scrape out any thinset that's close to the surface, and re-caulk. However, don't scrape or cut deeply enough to damage the waterproofing. If you have a channel that is an 1/8" deep or a bit more it should be enough to hold the caulk and have it adhere. And be careful not to chip the tile edges when scraping :-)

TCNA/ANSI calls for a proper 1/8" expansion joint and for it to be filled with 100% silicone. No grout / caulk (siliconozed or not.)

Usually and i mean usually A corner crack developing relates to movement in the structure of the build and thats a whole other topic requiring many details of your homes structure/framing etc...

Sorry but you hired a "schluter certified" means diddly squat Sophie herself can go to a schluter seminar and come out a pro and in just a day or 2.

Lets assume the shower is built correctly there's no big worry with that crack and water in the brief interum until its removed and replaced properly..

However You also mention something about leveling and structural work. Lets Look A lot closer at that now that we know a few very basic errors were omitted. IE reverse pitch, grout caulk .......

. How did the flood test of your shower pan inspection Go?

The flood test was a success. In fact, the test lasted a couple of days longer than expected due to unforeseen circumstances and there still wasn’t a leak. I was actually surprised that there wasn’t a noticeable decline in the water level from evaporation. But there wasn’t.

Do you think we need to replace the current caulk with silicone?. I do have some experience with silicone - positive experience. When we had a kitchen counter installed, there was a seam in one area where the caulk cracked because silicone wasn’t used. We replaced it and everything has been fine.

But these shower cracks aren’t along just one seam.

By the way, I didn't blindly trust the Schluter contractors certification or photos from previous installations but I went to the Schluter discussion site ( a site recommended here, the Bridge forum, if I’m recalling correctly ) and compared photos to the ones I took daily, showing every step of the installation.And of course the main Schluter site where they had very detailed specs and info.

I’m very very far from being an expert but everything did seem to match. But obviously I missed something. We waited many years to redo our bathroom so we want to make it right.

I also want to add that our old shower, which was never in great shape ( built by previous owners) had some grout cracking but it took years after we bought the home before that happened. The major issue in that shower was mold and mildew because the grout wasn’t sealed and the bathroom ventilation, including the fan, was inadequate. A floor tile did eventually crack but after many years.

The seams in corners etc on your pictures, do not appear to be silicone caulk. Truthfully, they look more like grout. Have you tried to pick a small piece out to see exactly what it is. I wouldnt be using the shower, until it is repaired, just to make sure you dont create a further problem. Caulk done correctly, has a smoother finish than grout. Your corrners looks rough texture, and identical to the grouting in your tiles.

"And I’m not sure this is even a real problem."

The membrane will provide waterproofing. The caulk and grout? For the moist part, they are there to help the surfaces shed water and to help maintain sanitary surfaces.

You've gotten some good answers.

Changes in plane are typically caulked. Caulk is flexible and can move when adjacent surfaces move independently of one another. Grout is rigid and can crack.

Cracks in grout can be from movement...typically in corners, from differential movement...or because too much water was used in the grout mix or during clean up.

Cracks in caulk are usually shrinkage cracks. Not enough caulk was injected in the crack for the caulk to properly bond to the adjacent surfaces...Or too much caulk was injected in a deep crevice, and as the too-deep mass of caulk cured and shrank, the shrinkage forces were strong enough to break the bond between the caulk and the edge of the tile, or they caused the caulk to crack right in the middle of the bead itself. For deep gaps that need to be caulked, a foam rope (backer rod) is inserted into the gap to reduce the depth of the gap. That allows the caulk to be injected in the gap at the proper width-to-depth ratio.

Caulk texture? There both color- and texture-matched caulks these days. So if you have sanded grout, you can use a sanded caulk to help maintain joint texture between grout and caulk. Unsanded grout, use regular caulk.

Repairs? In general, it's not wise to shmear a thin veneer of caulk over cracked grout. It's better to cut the grout away as best as you can and then properly fill the gap with color- and texture-matching caulk.

With a Schluter shower, great care needs to be taken in cutting grout out of the joints. Go too deep and you can violate the integrity of the membrane.

Your wall corners will have membrane behind them, with the membrane bridging from one wall to the other. In a non-steam shower, there is a chance that your wall-to-ceiling joints do not. Depends on the habits of the builder.

The sooner the repairs are made the better. Grout hardness, ease of color-matching, etc.

Good luck with your repairs.

Cat-ky-

We picked a bit out and it feels different than the grout, with a soft feel, a rubberiness. . However, it looks different than the silicone caulk that was used in an area of my kitchen, where there a countertop seam. That silicone has held up fine for years and feels much more rubbery than the caulk in the shower ( if it is indeed caulk)

Thanks, MongoCT. I do feel confident about the waterproofing and the shower passed the water test with flying colors. . We’ve been using the shower for about a month ( my best estimate) so the shrinkage and cracks occurred recently. I would have noticed them before.

Because this is a Schluter shower, I would rather live with the cracks than risk cutting too deep and violating the integrity of the membrane...and Im thinking I have to use the same tile guy from the same contractor to maintain the warranty. But I’m not sure, have to double check.

The cracks are all where 2 walls meet. I do know the tile guy stressed that he was caulking those areas, rather than grouting them.

It appears to be a sanded siliconized acrylic caulk. Tiles at the corners were cut to tight not leaving a sufficient gap to receive sealant. Therefore the caulk is to thin to allow for any flexibility or shrinkage. Glad to see you flood tested at least you know you're only dealing with cosmetics. To repeat the point made by Tundra there is no such thing as a Schluter certified installer. You've got some good advise above.

I know and I’m so appreciative.

Hey - cleaning lady here....those fine cracks might not cause a water damage issue, but they are going to hold enough water that they'll eventually start to mildew or get that pink bacteria.

Michelle- that’s a concern.

Get some of that sanded caulk that was originally used and fill the holes. This isn't rocket science...