It's really hard to tell in a photo, but this looks potentially like Danby marble. There is a lot of variation in this quarry and the "gold whisps" look reminiscent of some Danby we installed a few years ago. They have three pretty distinct color groups Best of luck

The listing identifies it as a Greek Revival and it does fit the general profile. The 1875 is a bit late for this style, but entirely possible, and Greek Revival and Italianate share some characteristics. It can be a very simple and dignified style. An Italianate circa 1885 that was torn down near me :( had nearly an identical staircase, and not a shred was salvaged. Wow, looks like really nice neighborhood, yard, nice size rooms, georgous staircase, farm style kitchen (is the Hoosier cabinet staying?) and new foundation and water and sewer, updated electric and plumbing. The bedrooms are a bit tight, but that is typical of 1 1/2 story houses. I'm in house envy. The casings in the hallway and staircase look original. I'm assuming you have storage in the knee walls of the bedrooms. as the attached pictures show, small windows in this area is a characteristic of both styles to light small bedrooms under the eaves or storage areas. Look at the framing behind the knee walls, and you should be able to tell if there was any framing for narrow horizontal windows, as long as it isn't totally obscured by insulation or plaster.. This was a very simple style house and whatever you do, you should maintain the simplicity and symmetry of the facade. I may have gussied it up too much if it is truly Greek Revival--of course it might have gotten some window dressing along the way and then lost it about the time the siding was redone, but I would try to research it first. Local newspapers can also be a good source--I estimated my rental property to date to about 1910 and was told it was 1924, and it was actually 1903, so the listing isn't the most reliable info.Talk to the sellers--they obviously put a lot into the place--and the local old-timers and the historical society and see what you can learn about it. LANDSCAPING If you do add a railing, it should be approx. equal to the bottom of the windows--an easy way to do this is to add two benches on each side so that no structure is altered. It does look like it is missing something in the porch lintel area- and-quite possibly the porch was added after it was built, or the brackets and arched trim was removed along the way... I took a look at the old street view photos and it looks like the landscaping was built up a bit--I would check to make sure that the mulch and planting isn't touching the bottom of the siding because it sits so low to the ground. The old pale blue and white paint didn't do much for it. It probably sat a bit higher when it was built--I found a flagstone path right behind my rental nearly 2 feet below current ground level! Just years of grass can build up the ground level quite a lot--4-6 inches or more in 100 years. Anyway, here are some Greek Revivals and Italianates so you can compare details, and a couple of renderings of the front porch trying different cornice patterns (which maybe can be stenciled on with some simple molding for now) and a arched or flat awning for the windows. SIMPLE LOW COST CHANGES Bare bone changes until you know what you want to do and have researched the house: Paint all doors Olive green to match front door. Paint false cornice with simple molding to finish, possibly stencil simple panels or add with lattice. Experiment with subtle color combinations. If you choose to do a lattice effect, do it all the way accross or nearly all the way and paint the background a subtley contrasting color. It would be eaiest to do in 3 or so separate pieces. Add bit of open arched trim to front porch to fill in lintel and sidessimilar to first picture--be sure to route edges. Make sure it is to scale. Perhaps could be made with scroll saw and router. Will be vulnerable, so fill with Bondo, sand, double prime and paint. Add some taller landscaping away from the house Add the simple window trim and drip ledge discussed, preferably to all windows and paint sills, possibly add bottom trim. Consider awnings--Awinings come in all kinds of patterns to pick up the white, grey, olive and a touch of burgundy or purple. If you do an awning, I would consider repeating for the side entrance., and painting all the doors to match the front entrance. Awning were popular starting about the time your house was built to the 1920s. I would mount it quite high to help even out the scale. It is difficult for me to draw a good awning and the colors aren't quite right--perhaps square top would be better. Consider adding brackets and more detailed cornice, perhaps frieze windows and such, when you learn more about house. It would be best if you could play house detective and find an old photo. Adding dormers will totally change the style of your house==consider carefully, as you can see in the refernce below, Ann Arbor is a hotbed of venacular (commonly built by people, not architects) Greek Revival architecture, and your house may be one of them. See the farmhouse on the right. REFERENCES Most of all, learn the style before doing anything too drastic, and hire an informed architect if you do. This house has real character and history that doesn't need a lot of frou-frou. Keep the old windows--they add a lot of character and can be just as efficient as new ones with proper glazing, caulking, weatherstripping and storm windows! http://www.antiquehomesmagazine.com/info.php?info_id=18 http://www.oldhousejournal.com/architectural_styles_italianate/magazine/1565 http://www.house-design-coffee.com/greek-revival-architecture-ann-arbor.html (right in your neighborhood!--not all the frieze windows in the farmhouses!) http://www.house-design-coffee.com/italianate-houses.html And go to the library to find books on architectural styles and details and research colors. Meanwhile the purple might grow on you and it makes your house easy to find. Dark colors were popular from about 1880-1905, and it is sort of an updated version that is kind of fun, and looks pretty good with a bit more detail. Authentic color would be a subdued midtone for the body and darker tones on the trim--tastes later changed to lighter tones on the trim after 1900. http://www.colorhunter.com/tag/italianate/1 (disregard most grass, sky and flowers colors) http://www.landmarkservices.com/blog/?Tag=Paint%20Colors http://www.oldhouseauthority.com/archive

We strongly disagree with your husband - it's time to remove/replace those cabinets! The lay-out does not look very functional, the backsplash height appears to be too low and the knife hinges on the outside of the cabinets are very dated. If you are looking to remodel but on a tight budget, consider looking at online stock cabinet options. You can purchase a new set of kitchen cabinets for just 2,000-5,000. Replacing with new cabinets will give you the type of upgrade you can be proud of, and the new functionality of the kitchen will be a joy to work in.

I googled "1920's mahogany China cabinets" and found a maple bow front China cabinet with similar scrollwork and finish. It was made by Ebert Furniture Co. in PA sometime between 1900-1950 and valued at $400. My guess is that your cabinet was probably made between the 1910's and 1930's. I have no idea if this company is the manufacturer of your cabinet but it might be a decent jumping off point to continue a search. I'd hold off refinishing it until you find out whether it's a worthwhile antique or not. Hopefully a Houzzer with more experience than I have in American furniture will jump in and help you. Best of luck. You found a lovely cabinet!