We used BM Advance to paint our cabinet doors/drawer fronts. It’s only been within the last year, so I can’t say anything to yellowing long-term, but I found the finish amazing. We used a paint sprayer, and it’s as smooth as glass.

I've used BM Advance but also General Finishes milk paint. No idea why they call it milk paint because it isn't. It's super easy to use and dries to a hard enamel like finish (supposedly suitable for outdoors, too).

[https://www.houzz.com/discussions/cabinet-paint-rave-dsvw-vd~3485219?n=29[(https://www.houzz.com/discussions/cabinet-paint-rave-dsvw-vd~3485219?n=29)

https://generalfinishes.com/videos/how-update-kitchen-cabinets-milk-paint

I've used Cabinet Coat on kitchen cabinets, loved working with it. I didn't find it thick at all. Used an oil-based primer first.

PPG's BreakThrough satin or semi has the shortest dry time between coats - 30 minutes to 1 hr. BM Advance and SW both have 8+ hours of dry time between coats.

Advance is something like 16, IIRC. We basically did one coat/day.

SW is somewhere around there too. If you have the time and patience, the resulting finish/hand is beautiful.

I always forget about that PPG product. We might have used that if I had been smarter. We had a lot of cabinets, and it took a long time due to having to wait, in addition to work schedules.

Thank you, everyone!

I'm a bit stuck on what to do next. I think I need a cup of coffee and a few min to sort through everything. My husband picked up a quart of Cabinet Coat in Kendall Gray. I think it's a bit blue looking in the light but in the shade, it's very pretty. I think I was expecting it to look a bit more like the chip. We did a sample on a cabinet and side of the island and my mistake might have been that both that side of the island and the cabinet are pretty shaded without direct light. This morning, the entire cabinet has a gray/blue hue, which is nice, just not dark enough on the island to give us the contrast we want. I'm not sure if it is the CC color match (done at a BM retailer) or just the light in the kitchen. I read a bit online and a few people said that Advance is a better for color match than CC b/c CC can be a bit bluish - they were very old posts, so I don't know if that's a valid claim anymore. We are going to do all of this slow...so dry time is not as important (I say that now..ha!). PPG sounds great...only 8 hours! I think we'll stick with Advance, CC or SW b/c I have access to them. We don't have a local PPG store anymore.

nosoccermom, thanks for this info on the milk paint! I really didn't want a milk paint but it's nice to hear this isn't a real milk paint. I like the Queenstown gray - I'm tempted to try it but I'm trying to stay on task! Lori S. and others gave great advice on how to match the Kendall Gray to our wall color (skipping stone), so if I vary from that, it'l be like starting all over...my brain can't handle that right now haha!

One thing that we did was paint pieces of cardboard and put them in the kitchen at different times of day and night. This gave us a better idea as to which color would go best in our kitchen. I also asked the paint store person. We were ok with a Fine Paints color, but she recommended a BM color match. I needed a not stark white to go in my northern facing kitchen. Grays can run either green or blue depending on your lighting.

I know that's a light is different in both locations but hopefully you can see what I mean of the blue slash later gray. I was hoping it would match a little darker to granite and floor grout. does anyone think this a CC issue or j ust a color issue?

Is the color you're talking about BM Kendall Charcoal? Because if that's the color, then yes, I do think it can skew bluish in some lights, it's not the Cabinet Coat. I have a display cabinet in my den painted that color.

You might want to try SW Urbane Bronze, I think it would work better with your flooring and granite.

It is Kendall Charcoal... thank you for your reply! it's good to hear I'm not 100% crazy!
I've been encouraged to keep all these posts in one place, so I'll direct anyone else who can help to this link. these two rooms are a work in progress! I thought we finally settled on KC and it looks so pretty in the shade areas but seems to really reflect blue on the cabinets. Now looking at Iron Mountain (BM) and Urbane Bronze (going to google these now).

Check out this discussion on Houzz - http://houzz.com/sr/m=7/u=aHR0cHM6Ly93d3cuaG91enouY29tL2Rpc2N1c3Npb25zLzQyOTc3Njkva2l0Y2hlbi1jb2xvci1oZWxwLXdlaXJkLXVnbHktbWl4

SW Urbane Bronze will give your that deep gray you're looking for, but there's no blue in it. It's a very dark gray with a hint of brown undertones, that will work perfectly with your granite and flooring.

And congrats on all the work you've done!

Thanks, OHHS&R :) It's been quite journey from the black and white floor and carnival colors in the house.

What are your thoughts on Iron Mountain over Urbane Bronze? They seem similar to me...but I"m a novice and guidance is appreciated! We were thinking of skipping stone for the walls, warm white trim - but, that was when we were thinking of KC. Looking for cozy warm den and kitchen...

Iron Mountain is a gray/brown color, so it would probably work much better than Kendall Charcoal. I'm not as familiar with is as Urbane Bronze, which is my go-to dark gray for homes with warm undertone fixed elements (flooring, tile, counters, etc.). With your floors and granite you need to avoid blue undertones.

This is really helpful! Thank you so much!
I'm going to get a sample of them both. Kendall charcoal looked great when it was shaded. The blue didn't really come out until light hit it. even now, I'm looking at it and it looks nice even with these ugly floors. I know that when the light comes out in the morning it's just too blue for us.
I will pick up samples of both and test them. I'm a little disappointed because I plan to use this long weekend to paint both rooms but I don't want to put Benjamin Moore skipping Stone on the wall if it's not going to look good with the cabinet color we picked. I guess it's better we figured this out now rather than later! Thank you so much!
Attached a pic to show the KC on the cabinets. Definitely too blue.

You called it, OHHS&R! We tried Urbane Bronze and LOVE it.

Next up, wall color. we are planning on going with Lori's suggestion from a week or so ago of BM Skipping stone. My biggest concern is how it will work in our back room, which is north facing and does horrible with anything gray. It also has a very warm floor (Duraseal nutmeg on pine). The SS sample looks pretty next to the UB but I'm worried about it being a dull and flat in the back room. We sampled a color match from HD on the wall and it's ok. I know it it would be better if coming from BM store and we will do that if we are going to go ahead with the paint, we just needed a SS sample quick. Any thoughts on if this will work or is it too much gray undertone for the space? In this album are pics of SS in the morning light (when it will be most washed out, b/c of the bluish light). It looks gray on the walls right now.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/YVihu8yvQJLCkPGx6

I'm not personally familiar with Skipping Stone, sorry. All of the elements I can see, your floors, fireplace brick, countertops, etc., have warm undertones, which would make me (personally) avoid grays. I'd try BM Manchester Tan, it's an updated beige/tan with a slight yellow undertone and a drop of gray. That bit of gray in it makes it feel fresh and updated, but it won't fight with the warm undertones in your fixed elements. Depending on the lighting it can sometimes read a little more gray or a little more tan, but it will work with what you have and give you a beautiful neutral background to build on.

thank you! Manchester tan is one of the few we are looking at! In the store, it seemed to have just enough Yellow in it to make it "not too blah"
As you so astutely suggested, all grays are out! in the beginning, before I understood any of this, I kept trying for grays because that's what the Benjamin Moore color consultant told me to do. sadly, after a lot of confusion and a big learning curve, I understood why with the warm tones and the northern lights of the back room, gray was out! that means colors with gray undertones two. Skipping Stone is pretty bit a bit blah bc of the gray. It looks pretty with the UB though. Manchester tan seems to have even less gray, so we will try it! thanks!

nuhouse10 can you please kindly share which tools did you use on your cabinets - did you spray them, rolled paint, or brushed it on? and if you used rollers/brushes, then which brands? thanks.

oh, and did you go with cabinet coat or BM Advance? so hard to decide!

The key to painting cabinets is in the prep. It requires a lot of it. If you do not want the grain to show, you will need to sand and use a filler of some sort, if you have oak grain cabinets. We washed our cabinets with powdered dirtex, sanded, then wiped down. Used an oil based primer from Fine Paints of Europe. Then sanded lightly, and painted. My husband did the painting, and he used a brush. I found several old threads here on using Fine Paints of Europe and used the suggestions and techniques from there.

Thank you, Suseyb! I did a search too...found much great advice here. I really do love Houzz! We have prepped...and prepped and prepped again. I finally made a chart to keep track of everything b/c all doors and base cabinets are in different phases of prep and paint. My husband things it's crazy but I don't want to miss a coat!

We are using a brush/roller combo.

Quick question, were your cabinets painted before and you were re-painting or were they factory finished Just curious as it seems like not many are taking painted cabinets and re-painting, like we are ;)

Ours were builder grade stained cabinets. I'm actually seeing a trend toward going back to stained cabinets... ;)

My husband tried the roller and didn't like how it stippled. I bought a bunch of different rollers, and he still decided to just go with the brush. I found one he really liked, think it was probably referenced here. We ended up priming twice and painting twice. I'm very happy with how it looks. I lightly sanded between all coats and he wiped off before he painted. There was definitely a learning curve. <3

Thank you suseyb...

I don't like the stipple either - even with the recommended rollers, We have a few different ones we have tried. We are using a combo of both - especially because we have grooves won't get, no matter what we do. We wanted a paint sprayer to make it easy but I spent my budget on paint samples and rollers so we are skipping the sprayer this time around! I really love stained cabinets but we bought the house with painted, so we are sticking with it until we gut the whole kitchen one day in the future. Thanks for the feedback. I hear you about the learning curve...everyday it's something new! I haven't done coat 2 on the doors and I'm debating on a light sand in between....cabinet coats says we don't have to but my brain wants to haha! thanks again! I'm going to look up and see what brushes you used from old comments...we are using purdy nylox and xl. So far, no difference between the two in how they apply paint

alinayuriy -

Sorry for the delay in responding...I wanted to check on the type of roller we used before I commented.

We ended up using Cabinet Coat, mixed at our local BM dealer, with Sherwin Williams Urbane Bronze. They manually matched the color for us. We are using Satin finish. We chose CC for a few reasons, although they might not be the most logical :) First, it was what we knew. I've liked Satin Impervo for trim in the past but didn't know how it would hold up on cabinets. We read a lot of reviews on Advance and CC, including the ones in this thread and ultimately felt there was no real big push for us to switch from a product we had already sampled to a new one. If people had said CC was really hard to work with or didn't hold up, we would have switched but everything we have read is that it was really "user friendly" and good for newbies, like us. We also liked that it is self-priming. I know some people will say "prime anyway!" and we were going to but a test sample showed no difference in coating. We also looked closely at the SW recommended above, especially since we were going with a SW paint color, but since the project is already complicated enough, I decided to just stick with what was working, which was Cabinet Coat.

We have coated the base cabinets and 1 coat on the lower doors, so far. I don't know how it would be for others with factory/builder-grade stained cabinets but this is our experience with custom built, pre-painted cabinets. We have cleaned w/ TSP-replacement, de-glossed with a liquid de-glosser/sanding product (I know some people hate this idea but it's been great, esp with the grooves and cracks we have in our cabinets), then sanded as needed, wiped down and painted with Cabinet Coat.

We are currently using a brush and roller method. As I mentioned in an earlier thread, we didn't go with a sprayer although I have some great recommendations on one. Our reasons for no sprayer was #1: budget. It's really tight right now. #2: I worried about where we would spray. We live in the NE and we don't have a heated area to spray and I worry that the sprayer would spray too much. This may be a totally silly concern, the reality is that I just *think* that could be an issue and so I decided it was one. Paint sprayers may be totally safe to spray in a small, enclosed area...so really, don't listen to me on this one haha!

We are using Purdy brushes to get in the cabinet grooves and do the edges and rolling after. Our assembly line process is for me to brushy and my husband to follow with the roller. We are using 2 different rollers - we aren't sure which we like best. One is the Whizz 4" roller with the standard foam roller that is in the package. We used this for all of the bottom base cabinets (with a brush too). Then, we tried some fancy Whizz roller that someone on a blog or on Houzz recommended as their favorite. I'll post a pic of the package. It's a bit bigger than we need and we worried about coverage but it all smoothed out nicely. We only used it once on the front cab doors, so we are going to try again today and see how it goes. The first coat is very much a base coat, whether we use a roller or a brush. One thing we noticed, not sure if it's b/c of my specific cabinet situation or b/c of the paint...I think it's the cabinet (high gloms painted, deglossed, sanded, no primer per CC instructions) but the initial coat has just "ok coverage". That being said, we could be just bad at painting b/c we are worried about drips so we are doing thin coats. When we go back over with the brush, it will leave streaks. I don't remember this from other paints in different situations (not cabinets). I'm sure it's what we are doing, not so much the paint itself b/c i haven't read this as being an issue for anyone else.

I hope this helps!

OHHS&R -

Thank you again for the recommendation on the Urbane Bronze. It's perfect for our home. We are stuck on a wall color but that will come. I love the manchester tan and so many colors but unfortunately, the other room (that we are also painting the same as the kitchen) doesn't look good with anything gray at all. It picks it up and looks drab (north facing room with light blocked by mountain). So, what looks good in the kitchen doesn't exactly look great in the back room. We are trying to find a nice light balance. Tried Shoji White but it was pretty blah in the back room too. Skipping stone was ultimately too dark for what we wanted, although beautiful with the cabinets. Thanks for your guidance - the CC and Urbane Bronze have changed everything for us. I have hope for this disaster for a kitchen!

here are brushes/roller we used. We also used the roller that came with the Whizz 4" roller. I havent noticed a difference with the two brushes (yet). I mostly need them to get in the grooves on the front of the cabinets. the attached pic shows the back of the cabinets after 1 coat of Cabinet Coat.

I did a very light sand to scuff the surface in between coats with 400 grit sandpaper.

There are white foam rollers that are specially meant for cabinets. It says cabinets on the package. They work great. Cabinet paint is self leveling, so any roller marks would most likely flow out, however, I always brush down after rolling. It works great and leaves no brush marks. (Brush needs to be high quality one, I use Purdy)

I have used both for customers as well as my own house. Advance self levels better but the trade off is the yellowing. If you are concerned about the thickness of cabinet coat just add some paint conditioner and this will also assist with leveling of paint as it dries. I aldo find the thinner advance may need an extra coat. All of the above my opinion and my personal experience.