Will check. I money's on the supplier didn't sub the install to a factory certified installer.

why are you trying to figure out a "fix". Make them come back and get it right. Total re-do on THEIR dime

This sounds like (1) the counter installer messed up and (2) it's your GC's responsibility to make it right by dealing with the counter installers, not by doing a creative fix.

I would be fighting for a redo, not a Liquid Nails fix!!

I love my Dekton countertop. But it was fabricated/installed by experienced, skilled, and Dekton certified people! By all means get a Dekton rep out to look at this and they will tell you exactly why your countertop is doomed to failure. If your contractor hired these inexperienced installers, it's a total do-over on his/her dime. It was actually a do-over after the FIRST mistake!

THAT is an assinine instalation fix! Skip the contractor..liquid nails....geez! Check if the installer and fabricator are Dekton certified; and if so, proceed to corporate.

Not acceptable in the least! It will be a fight if you've already paid in full, but you should contact Dekton and tell them what has happened. Send them the pictures. In the very least, the installer should have gone out and got more plywood to fill the extra space needed to raise above the drawer fronts. After the fact is going to be very difficult to fix.

Do not use liquid nails, or any other product. As soon as you do that, you've accepted responsibility for this screw up & any further problems will be blamed on what you have done instead of the initial installation.

I am a fabricator. The spacer board was not a horrible solution if it had been properly executed. The "loose" areas are definitely an installation error that should be fixed particularly with Dekton which is extremely brittle and much more likely to crack than quartz or natural stone. A correct fix would be a complete re-do. That's what my shop would do. (yes, we make mistakes occasionally.) In the event you can't get the supplier to fix the problem you can try to fix it by adding shims any place the dekton is not directly in contact with the wood substrate. Use plastic shims, wood ones can compress over time. Unfortunately the drop edge makes this option much more difficult. Good luck.

Thanks all, and thanks @oldryder. The installer/fabricator is doing their own version of the liquid nails. - instead using the same silicon adhesive as they used for the initial install. @oldryder, you misunderstand the install method...the ENTIRE countertop is on 1/8" standoffs effectively floating like a pier foundation construction or sleeper floor.

They're drilling a bunch of holes through the base cabinets at all front corners, back corners, and especially along the front edges of the countertop so as to inject more supporting (when cured) adhesive. When "injected", the silicon forms about a 6" circle. No ability to shim as noted at this point. Per other comments, this keeps the fix and install squarely within the warranty with Dekton and the supplier. If we don't like it, we'll go the Dekton factory route...

Don't know if I like the idea of a so called, "pier-supported" countertop, nor have I heard of this. I prefer to have the countertop completely supported by a full substrate.

Are you okay wiith them drilling holes in your cabinets?!?!

OK is sort of a relative term...I figure this kitchen will be torn out along with the rest of the house when I sell it. So in the end this it is for my wife and I to enjoy day to day as opposed to an investment in the property. So, yeah I'm OK with it because it won't detract from enjoying cooking in the thing.

Update - So I stopped the original guy from coming back and got a different countertop specialist to come in to finalize. Instead of using silicon, the new crew used a two part epoxy so to fill the voids...and then came back to do it again wherever I wasn't happy. In the end, the countertops feel very solid - not epoxied to the plywood solid mind you, but solid enough that I wouldn't hesitate to stand on the thing pretty much anywhere except along the 4" edge in front of the under-mount sink. "Drumming" noise is 100% gone, although there are definitely spots where it sounds more hollow - just not a drum. All the hollower sounding areas are a) small, b) under the wall cabinets so there's really no way to put a lot of weight on them anyway.

All in all, there's no reason to fret or worry about the countertop at this point.

Steve, I am curious why you allowed a mistake by the fabricator to go unchecked. I often see posts like yours on Houzz and honestly do not understand why consumers accept less than professional work in exchange for their hard earned cash.

I am renovating my home and doing the bulk of the renovations myself, but when I need to hire someone to do some of the work I make sure I am home when the work is done and I am able to watch what they are doing and stop them if it doesn't meet my expectations.

@jennifer - the problem of course is that they told me at the time it was normal. They started with the 1/8" spacers nearly the moment they start putting down silicon glue....so within 10m of arrival. 5 guys all doing their thing simultaneously looks like they know what they're doing.

And I have done the opposite... Making the installer do exactly as I wish. Which is why I can't take one of my drawers out unless I uninstall the rangetop. I had it placed exactly where I wanted it, and obviously measured wrong. I also spec'd flooring that required underlayment that had yet to be imported, and tile edging that required extra skill at ramping the thinset by a couple mm over a three foot span.

Clearly left to my own devices trouble is sure to follow!