I wouldn’t. I’d let them grow for the first year. The more canes it has, the more leaves it can grow and that means stronger plant. After it’s first year, you can reassess and trim it then, based on which canes look healthiest. :-)

The 2 canes (red arrow) are already ontop/rubbing on the other bigger cane that is budded in the back though. Wouldn't the rubbing cause more stem damage or potential damage to that cane in the back, which is thicker and also the framework from the opposite budded side ?

They will be planted with the canes a smidge under the soil line (in hopes of own rooting). So I'm trying to get the canes proper prior to burying

Took a closer look at your photo—if that smaller cane by the yellow arrow is dead or rotting, I’d cut it off. Looks a little green at the top, but brown in the middle?

You've got a number of good canes there, so I think if they are really bothering you, you’ll be okay to cut it off. (I wouldn’t cut it shorter, as that will just lead to more crossing growth to contend with.)

I’ve just had some plants with fewer canes that I hated to cut anything healthy, and usually prefer to let the growing plant decide which will be the strongest canes. I’ve had plants that had crossed canes that didn’t hurt each other. You could also cut away the thick one it looks like, and eliminate the problem, but again, that one looks very healthy.

It‘s a good looking bareroot and should grow well either way. :-)

Bumping this to get some more feedback...thanks! :-)

I think I'd maybe cut out the cane with the yellow arrow, if it is indeed damaged badly in the center,but I'd wait a year before doing anything else.

The yellow is just to ID the cane being discussed. Where it's pointed, it is fine. It's just a bit more pronounced because it's wet and the bareroot is covered in soil.

This one is almost touching the back cane as well . I was thinking about just cutting that one a bit back and see if it may shift direction a bit now that it's in a new planting site/hole and it may ~reach~ for the sun at a different growing angle ?

The smaller cane by the yellow area doesn't look rotted to me, it looks like a shadow falling across it at the top and at the base. I like my roses to start out more open because as the spring progresses and I have too much to do I could end up with a tangled mess if I don't get back to it to take out the crosses. I might consider waiting and seeing how many breaks you get on all the canes and if you stay on top of it decide then which to remove. If they all sprout then I would do some pruning to keep the center more open. It will also help the plant to catch it's roots up to the tops. If you are going to bury the graft you might also alternately consider removing that one back cane instead of the two middle canes.

I wouldn’t cut any of the canes at this point. More canes = more leaves to push growth.

Personally, I would remove the center cane. It is going to be harder to get the clippers in there once it grows a bit. It is crossing the middle of your "vase shape " It will eventually rub.

Both those middles (red) is literally 1/16 of space before it rubs. I'm sure with planted growth, it will rub this season.

Shall I cut it to the bud union or maybe leave like 1" and hope as it grows out, it grows out vertical towards the Sun ? One can hope/wish/want right ?

lkay

"If you are going to bury the graft you might also alternately consider removing that one back cane instead of the two middle canes."

Ultimately I'm thinking 2 canes need to be cut..unless I'm looking at this wrong. Even if I remove the back can (in which the 2 red arrows are rubbing), the 2 reds are in parallel and while they don't seem they will cross, they are pretty close to each other itself , so ultimately, I would need to eliminate one of those parallel canes.

I hate to be cutting/remove canes so early on, but ultimately it's a call on health and framework

toolbelt -

thx ! Saved me some canes !

It was not even on my radar to try to train the offending canes. I got some pretty decent pressure on both the reds. One of them is now 2 inches to the left of the cane in the back, and the other red is 2 inches forward of that same back cane. Hopefully once the weather warms up and the juices start flowing in the canes and it becomes a bit more supple, it will maintain it's current staked/tied position.

Which then led me down the rabbit hole, as I went looking at all the new BR plantings to see if any needed some *cane direction training* in order to establish a better looking framework. Ah, the issues with OCD

Admirable self-awareness.

Your welcome..... 'cane direction training' love it!!!! lol lol

Now I've got to get some 20 year old plants producing new canes!!! I'm cutting off a bunch of old canes this coming week.

You got me canenvy TB. Most of all my BR rose plantings are grafted planted with the canes a smidge below the soil line. Still somewhat concerned about ~framework~ but I hope in time, they go own root - new canes replace/supplement older canes from soil line up to have a nice framework.

I like my shrubs round/moundish. I see too many ~vert~ rose shrubs when I go walking in the neighborhood. 5 Feet high but like 2 feet wide

I am not a bare root expert. I have planted many with success but I also lost some last summer that were spring planted. They were beautiful David Austin plants with lots of canes which I didn't trim or remove.

Last fall I got an order in from Palatine and they sent directions for planting. I don't have their directions in front of me right now but they said to shorten the length of canes somewhat and to reduce the number of canes. I asked them about this and they confirmed that it was so top growth would be more in balance with the roots so the plant didn't have to support more growth than it comfortably could. I think I compromised and cut back to some degree but maybe not as much as recommended. So far my fall- planted Palatines are looking good. It looks like there are eight canes on your plant. I'd take out at least one or two smaller ones.

New Rose Grower here so some observation. I get it now. While Qty of canes if not cane direction (for a good framework) is important, the laterals that grow out - they pretty much fill out the oversall *shrub* itself and they will grow vertical (for the most part), regardless of which directions the canes are pointing.

I've got a few roses that I have string that I have pulled in some intense directions (as some were rubbing, others were just growing in a direction that I would have not preferred for it's intial framework growth. Going to leave the tied up cane *training* for a full season and remove them when they go dormant. I did check one of the strings.....and the cane seemed to remain in it's current direction post untying, which was a +