deanna_porter98

Can someone tell me why my cabinets could be peeling?

Deanna Y
July 3, 2019

I just got them done and I put my nail and it scraped off easily. Did they not use a primer? What can I do? Is it not fully cured or something? thanks

Comments (31)

  • sloyder

    usually takes 30 days to fully cure. Why did you use a nail?

  • Deanna Y

    I have it peeling in a few other spots and I put my nail barely and it scratched it off. I am unsure if primer was used

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  • Deanna Y

    I found out this is the paint they used on my cabinets. I was told it was water based paint for cabinets.

  • Holly Stockley

    I'm not familiar with DE, but that doesn't look like the equivalent of the trim and cabinet paints usually recommended for this sort of use. :-( That looks like plain ol' latex wall paint.

  • paintguy22

    Were the cabinets originally stained? Paint will harden and become more durable after full cure which may take up to a month.

  • cat_ky

    I am not familiar with DE paint either, since it isnt sold in my area, but, I agree with Holly, that is not cabinet paint. Thats the type of paint, you would use on a wall, in a laundry,kitchen, or bathroom, not what you would use on a cabinet. It will harden up, but, it will never have the tough finish that cabinet paint would have. There are special paints that are oil enriched that are used on cabinets. Mine have been painted over 4 yrs now. I did them. They have never had to have a touch up done to them and they have been scrubbed down numerous times.

  • Deanna Y

    So what am I supposed to do since he used regular paint? I havent fully paid him yet so should I not pay? This is upsetting.

  • millworkman

    You need to describe the process he used in the prep work before painting. That is quite often where finish coat issues lie. Every step, sanding, cleaning, cleaning, sanding, etc, etc, etc, And what products he used. Was he a pro painter?

  • Deanna Y

    Honestly, I am not sure. All I know is he said he lightly sanded, not sure if he primed, and used a water based paint that doesn't need a sealer. When he first painted then about 5 days ago I noticed some areas were peeling so I told him and he said he would fix it. But here it is 5 days later and they're still peeling easily. I dont think he sanded or primed. When I peel the paint it's just my old color cabinets under heath. I dont see any sanded wood or primer.

  • sloyder

    He should have primed before painting with a cabinet grade paint.

  • cat_ky

    The cabinets should have been scrubbed thoroughly, to make sure all grease etc iis off the existing finish. Then the doors should have been taken and laid flat and sanded thoroughly. Same with drawers.. Once all that is done, then, you use a good bonding ceiling primer on them, and wait the required amount of time on the paint can, and then at least two coats of a good quality cabinet paint and there is a wait time in between those coats. Let them dry, and put them back up. This is not a quick one day project. When I did mine, it took 6 weeks, until I was able to get the last door and drawer in place and put the handles etc on.

  • Deanna Y

    This is what they look like now. I'm going to talk to the guy who painted them and see what we can do. Maybe he can redo them with the right paint

  • Deanna Y

    can someone tell me if this looks like it was sanded and primed at all before being painted? thanks

  • Deanna Y

    picture here

  • Deanna Y

    few others

  • sloyder

    The back of the drawer front looks like it was just painted over the original finish.

  • Deanna Y

    sloyder, exactly what I think!

  • Deanna Y
    <?xml version="1.0" encoding="UTF-8"?><md>The painter is telling me that I told him that I didn't want an oil based paint on my cabinets since they're a bright white. which is true but he used a paint that isnt durable enough. I'm sure there is bright white paint that is water based and durable enough?? This is not my fault is it?
  • Bri Bosh

    What paint and prep were specified in the contract?

  • Deanna Y
    <?xml version="1.0" encoding="UTF-8"?><md>Bro Bosh, water based cabinet paint. sanding before but no mention of primer. This has to be partly my fault.
  • Deanna Y

    I'm sorry, I meant Bri bosh

  • cat_ky

    Deanna, cabinet paint is latex. It is oil enriched latex enamel, and is non yellowing. Apparently your painter is not used to using cabinet paint.. Yes, you can get it in bright white. Here is the one right here. https://www.lowes.com/pd/valspar-cabinet-enamel-semi-gloss-latex-tintable-paint-actual-net-contents-31-fl-oz/999918090?cm_mmc=shp--c--prd--pnt--google--lia--219--interiorstains--999918090-_-0&kpid&store_code=2776&k_clickID=go_1793096639_69778060316_346820150608_pla-470460113889_c_9014701&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIkriK8IOi4wIVRLXACh3fCAaKEAQYASABEgIPi_D_BwE Sherwin Williams has a paint meant for cabinets, called Pro Classic enamel which is latex. Benjamin Moore makes Advance that is used for cabinets. It is alkyd enamel with soap and water clean up. Maybe your painter should check out cabinet paints.

  • paintguy22

    That one area where there is a seam looks like it could be silicone or some other contaminant that is preventing the paint from sticking there. If the paint is peeling easily down to the original finish, then I'm sorry to say that the only way to fix it is to strip and start over. Painting over failing paint will not solve the problem. Oil based paint is not necessarily better either, especially when the surface is not prepped properly and a primer is not used. It doesn't matter what the topcoat is when you skip the prep.

  • Faron79

    Also:

    The word "Enamel" doesn't mean a THING. It was a "buzzword" created to advertise Oil-based paints, when that's all there was!! Hard as the "Enamel on your teeth" was the advertising theme....


    Then, when Latexes were coming out, they magically became "Enamels" too! That's amazing! ;-)


    Many "Cabinet & Trim" paints are mostly Water-based, with a component of a Polyurethane-type resin for toughness. These also level a little better, requiring more hours between coats. You'll also get a little longer brushing-time before the paint tacks up. With "regular" wall-paints, you have MAYBE 60 SECONDS before paint starts firming up.


    Faron

  • Deanna Y
    <?xml version="1.0" encoding="UTF-8"?><md>Update on my cabinets- He is still claiming the paint is durable enough. He also drilled hardware holes crooked, so now I have that issue. I am regretting getting them painted now
  • GreenDesigns

    Here is how I would expect a pro to spray paint kitchen cabinets. An amateur job should follow the same path. A brush painted job would differ slightly in that you wouldn't hang the doors to paint. You'd place them on a work table or easel instead. It's time intensive work, and should take 7-14 days for a Pro to accomplish completely and cost between 8--10K depending on kitchen size and amount of detail in cabinets.

    Remove doors and drawer fronts.

    Remove hinges and hardware.

    Clean with degreaser.

    Rinse and let dry.

    Scrape any loose finish.

    Fill any damaged spots or hardware holes that won't be reused.

    Sand fill smooth.

    Scuff sand the rest.

    Tack off dust.

    Hang in dust free paint booth with wires through hardware points to spray both sides. Or lay on a spinner, and do one side at a time.

    Tack off dust again.

    Spray with shellac based primer.

    Scuff sand again.

    Tack off dust.

    Spray with second coat of primer.

    Spray with first finish coat of a polyurethane enamel (DIY) Or conversion varnish, (Pro product) . NOT house paint. Never house paint.

    Spray with second coat.

    If glazing is to occur, that is next.

    Spray with clear over glaze that is compatible with base coat and glaze.

    Add more molding or decorative details to boxes, filling nail holes and sanding smooth.

    Repeat prep process with face frames and exposed cabinet sides using plastic to create a spray booth on site. If interiors are to be done, they are done before face frames and sides. Interiors are difficult, and add both time and expense to the job. Most interiors are laminate and don't accept paint well.

    Allow everything to fully cure. That's 7-14 days.

    Clean hinges and hardware and clear coat if you're keeping the old hardware.

    Install new (or old) hinges and hardware.

    Re-install doors and drawers and adjust for proper clearances.

    If you are receiving or doing a job without this amount of effort, then you are not getting a quality job. You are getting a poor quality job that will not last. Anyone who paints cabinets with the doors on is an amateur and a Philistine, and should be fired immediately. If they paint the hardware too, go straight to shooting them also, and saving the world from such criminal ineptness.

  • sloyder

    Get a quote from a pro, on fixing the cabinets, and take the original painter to small claims court to get your money back.

  • Deanna Y

    Hey everyone, new update on my cabinet situation. The guy who did them did sand them but they are laminate cabinets so they can't be sanded fully since it's not real wood(supposedly), so the paint isnt sticking to anything. So ontop of the wrong paint, the cabinets were not sanded thoroughly, and I still have yet to see primer anywhere. We have not paid him in full yet, and are still deciding if we should have him completely redo them or just have him fix some areas. My husband is even talking about new cabinets in a year two because it sounds like they are destroyed. I am afraid if this guy redoes them they wont look smooth after.

  • A Foster

    Laminate is a pita to paint it must be sanded and a very good bonding primer. Without the bonding primer you could easily just peal of the paint. I would save up n get new cabinets Sadly the cabinets do look good but your paint will not cure or bond to the laminate:(

  • cat_ky

    A Foster is correct. If these cabinets are laminate, then, they absolutely need a good bonding sealing primer after a thorough cleaning and a light sanding. There is no point in having him fix anything, because, unless they are fully stripped and started over from scratch, that paint will just keep peeling and peeling all the time. He should have known all this, and done them properly. Do not pay him anymore. Either strip the cabinets and get it done right, or leave them peel, until you can replace them, and start saving money to do the replacement, because, I am pretty sure that will happen sooner, than later.

  • GreenDesigns

    You need new cabinets.

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