If you can get the chips up, great. If not, they'll rot. Eventually. Glacially slowly. Seriously, like, glacially slowly. Just make sure they don't get dug under or it's going to cause some issues.

The sawdust, ignore. That'll go much faster; the area is larger compared to the volume.

If you can match the existing grass (which looks like a pretty standard northern mix, but please advise if not), then I'd just get rid of the weeds using any good herbicide (I'd suggest Weed B Gon Max for a good broad-spectrum kill). Do that soonest and keep after the weed spots until you reseed, which should be whenever nighttime temperatures just start to drop.

Not knowing your location makes it hard to give you a date, but it's usually around mid- to late-August (or, earlier than most people think) for a good chunk of the northern lawn area. Even knowing your location, it's more a matter of watching the weather than choosing a date.

Then seed, keep it damp by watering several times a day (seriously), and back that off after the last of the grass sprouts after 3 to 4 weeks (the bluegrasses in any mix, if it has them, take forever; fescues and ryes are faster, but don't repair themselves when damaged).

Thank you so much!

@morpheuspa need advice please. my yard is so ugly now. we spent days on getting rid of chips & roots but there are still lot of small & large Tree roots left that cause the yard uneven & it’s all weeds. i dont know where to start to fix it & prepare for grass. i know i have to test my soil ph first and make amendments. Right? when is the best time to apply Lime? . What’s next? Should i Get rid of all those roots, Kill weeds, Dethatch, Aeration, Rototill, Topsoil or Peat Moss, Plant grass seed??? I want to hire a professional landscaper but our $$$ went already to the house and tree removal. Thank you! Location: Springfield Pennsylvania (Zone 7a)

It is better to remove all the chips. After removing it, conduct a soil test and check its pH value. Then sow the grass seeds. Use organic fertilizers if required. Water your lawn early morning. If follow this, you will get a good and healthy lawn for sure. Also, you can seek help from professional lawn care services.

Mostly that. :-) The tree roots you're not going to be able to do much about quickly; they'll rot over time and the soil will...become even more uneven, actually. Add a quarter inch of soil at a time in low spots to bring it up, repeating every six weeks in areas with grass to give the grass time to adjust.

Areas that are currently bare can be leveled immediately but, as always, count on some re-leveling as it settles.

Be sure to use top soil without much or any organic matter and don't use compost! Compost will rot away to nothing eventually and leave you with uneven soil all over again.

Soil tests can be done immediately as well, just make sure not to get any wood chips or bits in the test.

I can and will read Logan Labs and will generally at least give a try on others, but don't make any promises. Amendments aren't recommended during seeding or on very young lawns, so you're going to be limited this fall except in emergency conditions.

New seed will require watering three to four times a day, even to the detriment of the existing grass. Fortunately, it doesn't require much water, but it does demand to be kept damp at all times until it sprouts, and for any mix with bluegrass in it, that can be a solid month. I do recommend bluegrass because it's a nice, self-repairing grass.

And I don't generally recommend professional services without a lot of research because...well, a lot are less than professional. :-)

Thank you so much! I appreciate your input.

Absolutely remove as much as you can. I had the same thing done and believed the tree guy when he said the debris would decompose. Well, yeah, by the time my 3-year-old grandson gets married!!

i worked and worked on that spot. It’s been 7 years now and it’s almost not noticeable finally.

Most of us have a perspective of "decompose" as "eventually." :-)

Adding a trickle of nitrogen accelerates the process considerably. Wood isn't known for its speed, but if you use some higher nitrogen organics like soybean meal, Milorganite, or the like, it speeds up.

Or just a touch of urea nitrogen does the same.