To note: There’s also a small gap between the cabinet and stone on the side with issues.

Ask the fabricator and installer why if the floor and cabinets are all lever it is like this? It is only an 1/8" of an inch so not terrible but ask them why, maybe there is a logical reason.

They’re saying they want to put caulking where the quartz meets the floor. Is that normal? I feel like that’s just them trying to cover up bad work and not measuring properly.

1/8" is not that bad and a bit of caulking should reduce it's visibility. A typical tolerance is plus or minus 1/16" so 1/8" total would be considered acceptable.

In all other photos I’ve seen there isn’t caulking at the bottom. Is that just something they’re suggesting to cover this up?

I want to ask for that piece to be replaced. Overall, I’m really unhappy with the job. They didn’t even line the stone flush to the cabinets (photo attached) and the mitred edges/epoxy are not the best.

Is it possible to have that piece removed? How would that be done?

Here's an example where the leg has a gap to the floor.

Though you placed a level on the floor and cabinets, keep in mind that bubble type levels are not 100% accurate, if the bubble is off by just a smidge then your level could be off by 1/4" over say 6' or 8'. I've never seen a perfectly level floor.

I am a fabricator. an 1/8" tolerance for countertop fit is very acceptable and not an indication of poor work or a mistake. Sometimes I have to remind customers that we make countertops, not aircraft parts. The vertical piece cannot be removed and replaced; it would require a significant remake. From the pics it looks like nice work.

I think that looks to be more than an 1/8 of an inch and to be honest there is no reason for that at all Oldryder there is no way I would accept that for a client and no reason for it since the other side is done right those mitered corners are a mess and should be invisible IMO

I think I could overlook the 1:8” gap if the veins line up and everything else looks good. When I look at the closeup of the miter there look to be chips and machine marks...

The veins do line up well. They’ve told me it’s DAP that they want to put and that clients in the have past have done paint and all worked out perfectly to match up. Does that sound right?

What would you do about these chips and machine marks?

This is why I always recommend (when people come on here and ask) not to get a waterfall counter. It rarely looks the way it does in magazines. I am guessing this look will be short-lived and odds are good that it will seem dated in a few years. At least it appears that your fabricator matched the veins flow very well. Often they don't.

Apologies, I meant to write DAB not DAP

To Patricia’s comment, are those mitred edges a mess? Should I make more of a fuss about this?

To Hallett & CO’s comment: Yes I’ve just noticed this. That’s the piece that doesn’t meet the floor, where there’s a small gap between the cabinet and stone, and the silicone is coming out.

Can this piece be removed and replaced? What do you think I should do?

IMo you tell them you want both ends to be perfect and those mitered corners to be almost invisble these are expensive counters to do and pay for and IMO they should be as close to perfect as possible. If they did not have experience with them they should have told you.

Thanks Patricia! The owner is sending someone tomorrow to try and “fix” everything but I’m not letting them touch the base until I see what everything else looks like first. If I’m not 100% happy then yes I’m absolutely going to push for new pieces.

You can’t “fix” sloppy work. They need to correctly measure, correctly cut and correctly install your stone. The operative word is “correctly”. I hope you withheld payment!!

Why is that angle larger than 90 degrees in your last pic?

To be honest I am having a problem getting myself oriented to understand the issues (which is possibly making all these issues look WAY worse than they do in the overall picture.... no one will be focusing on these without other context.)

Anyway - it would be nice to have some larger pics that could be used to show where you've provided the close ups.

I like the slight reveal of not having the counter hit the floor solidly - but that's just me. I'd clear silicone it and be done with it. I would NOT try to color match it with caulk because then you will just notice a glaring white stripe at the bottom.

The edges can be cleaned up and re polished in situ. The miters are okay. The gaps where the stone meets the cabinet is not unusual and should have been caulked.

This install is not terrible but not great. If they have a good guy on the crew they should be able to fix 90% of this by lunch. If this is their first waterfall you may need to start over.

These are the edges after being cleaned up and polished. Keep in mind there’s still a 1/8” gap on one side to the floor, and they didn’t put the island flush to the cabinets underneath like it’s supposed to be.

Also the side that has an issue (gap, not fully flush to the cabinets, silicone protruding from the stone and cabinet) wasn’t able to be fixed. I was told all they would do is add more silicone to where the gap is.

Would you still push for new pieces?

More photos of things that are still issues

The visible areas look great, the areas you have to be upside down to see are less great. I think when the rest of the kitchen goes together the seam under a counter in a shadow isn't going to matter to you.

I'll bet they scribe the new end to the floor.