I would maybe try a white caulk and/or some wood filler or spackle.

I would replace all the doors and the trim. Anything else will not look all that nice. Looks like a place in the vinyl by the casing that was miscut too. I would make him replace that piece, at least. For the trim, you could see if you could match it and just replace it all, and then for the casing by the door, see if you could cut a piece and glue it in, then spackle it, and paint it all white.Unfortunately this is something I have seen often. when people remove carpet. If a floating floor would have been used, it would have built the floor up enough that you wouldnt have that gap.

We had something similar when we took our entry tile. There was one really bad spot and the GC’s crew was able to patch it up to make it less noticeable. If this was the living area I would probably have replaced doors/trim, but this is the bedroom floor (and actually the door to my laundry closet) so I was fine with a cheap/easy fix.

Sorry that wasn’t a great after photo - here’s a better one

Plinth blocks won't help (much) because you will still have gaps underneath the jambs.

Contractor didn't know what to do either.

Because your 'contractor' is clueless. This problem was entirely predictable before the carpet was removed and blatantly obvious once the carpet was pulled up.

The other big tip-off that said 'contractor' was grossly overpaid is that he/she used a power saw to make the cuts around the door jambs when a handsaw should have been used.

As Cat said, the floor should have been built up before the planks were installed.

Now, the only fix (without removing the floor) is to replace all of the doors and jambs AND the mis-cut flooring. Which is going to be a lot more expensive than having done it correctly at the get-go.

Removing the flooring and going back to Square One is an option...I've never done this but did read somewhere that you should expect to be able to re-use only about 2/3rds of the flooring. Because the lock-hinges are somewhat fragile & will break in the removal process.

Yeah. Went with luxury vinyl because of the scratch resistance and the flooring company didnt say anything about raising the flooring.

So when we saw the finished product. We loved the floors but every door near a carpeted area was ruined.

I'm curious what brand and type floors these are. I am assuming they are they flexible LVT rather than the rigid backed.

2nd thought...maybe those lines that I thought were mis-cuts are Sharpie marks & will clean off?

The carpet sat HIGHER than the vinyl. A lovely carpet with a lovely pad will sit (roughly) 3/4" high. A hardwood floor will sit (roughly) 3/4" high. A tile or stone floor will sit (roughly) 3/4" high.

A vinyl floor can be as low as 1/4". That means there can be a difference of 1/2" (or more) when looking at floor transitions and door jams. Doors are often hung (and their trim) roughly 3/4" above the subfloor because that is the rule of thumb.

It takes a FLOORING specialist to KNOW this. A GC (ahem...the name is hint...General contractor = general knowledge) will not know these little things. A flooring expert *might have suggested 1/4" ply or fibre board to lift the floor a bit more...but most homeowners would resist this because it would add a significant amount to the renovation = homeowner would feel they were being 'had' but builders trying to get more money out of a job.

You can look at redoing the trim around the doors (the decorative trim...not the doors themselves) and then painting out the areas where the paint is missing. But there will be a MAJOR issue with sound transfer. The carpet was BLOCKING the noise from moving underneath the doors. Now that you have a hard surface AND doors that are an inch (or more) above the floor.

And that will probably mean new doors. Once you live with the quiet presence of carpet, you will be greatly irked by the sounds moving underneath the doors. And a hard surface will propagate noise, not dampen it. So the noise will sound crisp and clear 3 doors down.

If u can dyi get a wood filler i have 2 favorite and shape to fit missing wood dry filler and use a mouse sander to make the mold lines of original door casing n paint. It easy no big deal. Im currently working on project with some high casings. If I remember ill try to remember to post a picture If it’s a short gap then caulk can be shaped to match one of your pictures I would use caulk the other a filler. You could replace all casing but seriously overkill imo unless you got money to burn

Is all the door trim in home the same as the frames that are now too short? Maybe remove trim one one door that is a more un-noticable place and use that trim to cut off small slices to patch in gaps, using some caulk or wood putty then repaint. The quarter rounds that are sticking out too far with that blunt cut I would have a 45 degree cut at ends to "blend" in better.

Just the reason when you build, or remodel, you need to know flooring selections upfront. Or......you end up like this, or you are cutting down doors. : ) I'd call a very good trim guy, and I'd be ripping. I'd be ripping trim, and buying doors.

The flooring specialist should have pointed out the issue, and UNLESS I was putting this floor everywhere? I'd have used a pre finished 3/4 inch flooring. Not an LVP.

LOL SJ--this is where my head is when I hear all the new rage in flooring "there was a reason wall to wall was invented"!!!!

I bought a piece of trim. Then I cut each piece to fit gap. Glued. Then spackle, sand and paint. It worked.

Very tedious work. Time consuming.

This worked