The faucet placement is dependent on the position of the undermount sink rim. The question is was the sink too big for the depth of the countertop or was it positioned incorrectly so the cut out was back too far? How much space is there to the front edge of the countertop and where is the front rim of the sink positioned relative to the inside front edge of the cabinet?

Regardless of the answer the installer is responsible for determining the correct size of the sink and positioning of the cutout PRIOR to installation. Most if not all fabricators and installers will want to have the sinks prior to fabrication. If the sink was too big that should have been caught by the installer prior to making the cutout as well as the position of the cutout relative to the backwall. If the sink position could have been moved forward then they should have done that.

I'm in Austin, TX and my #1 supplier / installer issues are with solid surface fabricators and installers. Most will own up to and address issues they caused but you have to watch them closely as they install and catch any issues as their doing the installation. It is also a good idea when they come to measure to discuss the installation in detail.

On one job I had vanity top that was the wrong size and had a incorrect sink position. The fabricator / installer said that the vanity they measured was not the one I had installed because they couldn't make that many errors when they measured for the top.

The key to getting issues resolved is you don't pay in full until your satisfied with the end result.

The thick cement backsplash tile is the issue, coupled with the large faucet base. Neither is the stone fabricator’s issue. The holes are drilled in the standard location. No Kitchen Designer coordinated all the moving parts and measurements of everything involved, or designed in a deeper sink bumpout cabinet to deal with the added thicknesses of the chosen materials. A thinner backsplash or/and a faucet with a smaller base might alleviate the issue. Or, if the faucet swivels OK, just live with it.

What Cooks Kitchen said : ) Sorry. Mostly, the wrong sink/ cabinet for the window situation.

Pull the faucet and plunge a 1 3/8" diamond bit through the top and sink flange about 1/2" more forward than the existing hole. You'll have to shim opposite the sink flange to reinstall the faucet. If the old hole peeks out from the rear of the faucet escutcheon, grind a scrap to fill and adhere it in place. The repair will be inconspicuous because it's hidden by the faucet, but with that solid color, don't expect it to look as nice as these, none my fault:

Rarely do I disagree with TCK and Jan, but that sink should have fit with no problems, especially a composite when you can rip down the front flange a tad. This sink was mounted too far back and I'll bet there's a big fat unnecessary front rail too.

The Cook's Kitchen does have a point there.. But the countertop installer should have informed you about the lack of space before drilling (the backsplash was installed after they came to drill?).

Thank you to everyone who has replied, very much appreciated. Here's a photo with the the front to back measurements. The thickness of the back splash isn't a factor, in the basement, we used the thin subway tiles and the faucet is mounted in same place (same sink, same counter width). The faucet diameter is 2", so I believe that's pretty standard. The counter had already been built and in place when the stone guy came over to measure. One thing to possibly note; the back of the counter isn't flush with the sink' there's an overhang of 'prox 1/4".

Your picture confirms my guess. Your front rail is over 4" wide; I've made them as small as 2 3/8". This sink could easily have been pulled forward at least an inch and probably more; the faucet hole would have come forward too. Fabricator error. Rookie error to boot.

Yep. Looks like the fabricator just centered it front to back.

I’m sorry about your sister’s house fire, by the way; I can only imagine how daunting the task of rebuilding must feel. Hopefully all — first responders and pets included — are safe and sound and doing well.

I agree with Joseph. It also looks like your sink is 17”. The fabricator definitely should have pulled the sink forward and made the front rail smaller. He only left you with approx 4” at the back for a faucet and backsplash. In most cases that is not enough. Your faucet does not have a larger than normal base and the tiles look normal to me. There’s no reason all of this couldn’t fit had he done his job properly. Insist on a new counter. I would not accept a new hole drilled with the old hole plugged since it was their error to begin with.

Thank you to everyone who responded, very much appreciate your iput. The owners of the company agreed to replace the counter at their cost and do it correctly - this was achieved only because we could back up our claims of an incorrect install based on the information provided by you all! Sammy - unfortunately, my sister lost her two dogs and cat in the fire; she was not home. The cause of the fire was the slight reverberations of the built-in microwave caused a screw in the mounting bracket to slowly over time rub the the casing off an electrical wire in the wall; the fire investigator had never seen this before and is now using this in their training. She would trade all of her possessions to have her pets back, a year later it's still devastating for her to have lost them. Again thanks to all and hope everyone has a happy, healthy, safe and prosperous New Year!

This has been a very edifying thread. But most of all, Maureen, that horrible lesson learned about the microwave. So sorry for your sister, hopefully the new year will be a better one.

I hope the counters can be replaced without messing up the tile backsplash.

Note the faucet position please. I was just going to change this from a double to a single bowl without changing the cutout, but I noticed their blown reinforcement rod:

I suggested they double their budget and have me install an Elkay Quartz Luxe which would eliminate the repaired rod.

This model sink pushed the faucet escutcheon to within a 1/4" of the backsplash and I had to fill the old faucet hole. I had to notch the sink flange too. I bisected 4 sink clip slots and had to fill them. If you were a drip falling off the handle tip and the inside of the nozzle, you'd land on the two in the rear, however, they're very difficult to find:

Such are the tradeoffs. No, the handle does not touch the bar top. They are delighted.