Photos?

MongoCT It was mopped. (Newbie in reno here). Is that good? (Im looking into other pictures we have).

How much smaller the pony wall could have been? What is the smallest you can build? Why is it so thick?

What do you mean by where?

My shower pony wall is 5 1/4 inches wide. My house was built in 1999. Is it some type of code requirement?

Where, as in where are you? But you already answered, you're in California.

catbuilder how did I already answered that?

Wondering if we could knock down the right and the curb (keep the pony wall at the tub).

And have the shower glass directly in the bottom.

But then the tile where the wall was, could we remove it (its not grouted yet) and put a new one? As well as the one at the tub pony wall/curb.

How does the shower floor get hot mopped but not tied into the wall waterproofing system?

Where in the world is this project located? Are you in the United States? May we see a picture of the plan/drawings, please? If you have pictures of the walls before the tile went up, that might also be helpful. In fact, there’s no such thing as too many photos when it comes to describing an issue with design and/or execution. ;)

Millworkman tell me more.

well Now I’m worried ha!

here is a part of an other bathroom. very recently.

Notice the lack of material of any sort on the wall.

And from an other bathroom. That is how the floor is done.

Wondering if we could knock down the right pony wall and the curb (keep the pony wall at the tub).

And have the shower glass directly in the bottom.

But then the tile where the wall was, could we remove it (its not grouted yet) and put a new one? As well as the one at the tub pony wall/curb.

Hot mop is a west coast thang, mainly California, so that sort of gave your location away.

Your 7-1/4" thick pony walls are likely 2x6 framing (5-1/2"), plus 1/2" backer board plus 1/8" thinset plus 1/4" tile on each side. If there is any plumbing on those walls, that's often why 2x6s are used versus 2x4s, it gives a bit more leeway for the pipes and valves.

If only one is a wet wall, they likely made them the same for symmetry.

If neither is a wet wall, they might have gone thicker for stability, a post inside the pony wall that anchors in to the floor joists below.

Or, 'just because'.

Had 2x4s been used instead of 2x6s, that would have given you a 5-1/4" thick pony wall versus your 7-1/4".

As others have mentioned, the hot mop (HM) for the floor should be integrated with the waterproofing or drainage plane within the walls. So the HM should have been done before the wall tile was installed. It might have been, and the photo you show just might be a nicely cut piece of scrap ply on the floor to protect the HM and the drain.

MongoCT so i found this picture . Seems the Hot Mop was first. Then this black membrane. Which I never saw in person. Husband sent me pick. Months ago. so either they removed it or they put a plywood on top like you said. See other pics above I Sent about same time as your message.

The pony walls where 2 x 4. And they put some sort of cement on top of it?

yeah that picture is just some temp paper I think.

They use cement im told.

And there was a inch thing to cover of the tub side so they made both sides the same.

QUESTION IS NOW

Could we knock down the right pony wall and the curb (keep the pony wall at the tub).

And have the shower glass directly in the bottom.

But then the tile where the wall was, could we remove it (its not grouted yet) and put a new one? As well as the one at the tub pony wall/curb.

I think this is a question you need to ask your builder.

Thanks Nancy.

Well, before he tells me "no" and I just believe him, I was hoping to get other opinions here if it is indeed feasible and what does that imply.

Depending on how the glass is installed, you might be able to use the top of the wall as a nice little shelf on which to place all your “stuff” (e.g., shampoo, conditioner, soap, razor, etc.) I‘m not sure how feasible it will be to do that, but, since you don’t have a niche in the shower, it’s definitely something I’d look into if it was my shower.

Seems like the pros here are not interested in answering your question, you have asked it three times and no one is addressing it. I am doubting that you can go curbless in that size shower, but if you have it rebuilt, perhaps it can be a narrower curb. The foam ones by Kerdi, Laticrete, and Schluter are 4.5" deep and don't need the concrete coating. Since I am not a pro, I don't know if you can mix that kind of thing with the method your guy has of building the shower.

Sammy that is a good point. I was counting on that actually. The left wall we could do that.

Hopefully we can get rid or minimize the right one (as well as curb).

Nancy in Mich. It seems you know more than me already!

Looks like they lathed and floated the the walls with mud, that's why they are so thick. Good news? That's a durable installation. You're good for seismic! lol

Yes, talk to your guys. They can demo the right pony and replace it with a curb. It'll be a step or two backwards, and some of the tile may have to be redone.

They know their methods of construction, so they'll be able to give you an idea on the cost and timeline to get there and back again.

Thanks MongoCTI. Yeah that looks pretty solid haha!

Ok so from what you say, it seems feasible. We are fine with the time, as we are stuck with it after!

So you think it would look and feel less cramped with curb on the right side too? (been wondering if its just me and if it would really look better.

I dont like how they tiled the curb and top of pony walls either. Seems to me they could have use a long side of tile and have no grout lines ...

We want them thiner too.

It is common to use the same solid surface (stone, quartz, Corian, whatever) as you bought for the vanity counter to cap the curb and pony walls. And the tub deck, if there is one. No grout lines, easy to wipe clean.

"So you think it would look and feel less cramped with curb on the right side too? (been wondering if its just me and if it would really look better."

Personally, I'm not certain how it would look. If it was open to the right of the shower, I could see curb to ceiling glass working. But with a vanity on that right side, some folks object visually to a wall of glass next to the solid side of the vanity. The visual from inside the shower can look awkward as well unless you're a nifty cleaner.

"I dont like how they tiled the curb and top of pony walls either. Seems to me they could have use a long side of tile and have no grout lines ...

If your tiles are long enough to completely cover the top of the pony walls with no grout lines, that would have been a nice move. I can't tell from the photo, but I'm not certain that they are. Because of that, if they did run them the long way, you'd have an orphaned grout line somewhere on the top of the pony, not lining up with anything else. I think what they did was proper, carrying the grout line from the two sidewalls across the top of the pony. What Nancy wrote in her previous comment is most common, carrying a material from another horizontal surface in the bathroom over to the pony walls and curb. It depends on where the glass will be set, but the tops of the ponies may see water. It's common in that case to pitch them (as well as the curb) slightly into the shower for drainage.

The curb, they could have run the tiles the long way...but they lined up the tile layout and the grout lines on the curb with the tile and grout lines on the back wall. I have to say, I think they did a nice job marrying up the layout so it all looks ordered and cohesive.

"We want them thiner too. "

Was there ever an intent to use the top of the pony as a storage shelf? Shampoo, soap, razor, etc? You can have the ponies made thinner, but that's a whole new can of wax, a serious discussion to be had with your GC.

Good luck with it, I hope you find satisfaction in the end.