webuser_89935035

Can I use Quartzite as a backsplash to give my slab the length to go s

HU-89935035
last month

I am 1 1/2 inches short on my slab in order to use the entire slab to be seamless. It is 3cm thickness. I thought if they make a 5 inch backsplash and install that first, that'll give us the length we need in order for the slab to be seamless, except at the backsplash where we can caulk it or whatever is used for seams? The slabs are 115 x 77 and our peninsulas (2 of them) are 116 and a half X 53 for one side and 49 on the other..??

Comments (33)

  • live_wire_oak
    last month
    last modified: last month

    Past your layout. It’s usually the length that’s the issue rather than the width. But no. The splash goes on top of the counter. And not doing it at all would be a better option.

    HU-89935035 thanked live_wire_oak
  • PRO
    Joseph Corlett, LLC
    last month

    Replace your sink with an apron front and two 5" seams. I just added three feet to your slab.

    HU-89935035 thanked Joseph Corlett, LLC
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  • HU-89935035
    Original Author
    last month

    Ok, I will upload a pic of where I'm thinking i could add the backsplash to give me the length i need for the peninsulas to be

  • HU-89935035
    Original Author
    last month



  • HU-89935035
    Original Author
    last month

    The backsplash would go against that back wall in order to give me the length. I was thinking of using the same quartzite 5" in height along the bottom of windows as a backsplash and the length would be the width of the peninsulas then butt the slabs against the backsplash.to give me the extra 1 1/2 inches I need to end the peninsula in a waterfall finsih...I hope I'm describing my intentions clear enough?

  • chispa
    last month

    Skip the waterfall, unless your house is a slick modern Miami house/condo.


    What kind of seam are you expecting at the waterfall joint? There was a post a few days ago with an awful looking quartzite waterfall seam.

    Found it:

    https://www.houzz.com/discussions/kitchens/p/120

  • HU-89935035
    Original Author
    last month

    this is the layout..the stove will go in the middle and the 2 peninsulas will end in a waterfall finish..that's why I was thinking of putting the same quartzite as a backsplash first to give me the extra inch and a half that I need...???

  • HU-89935035
    Original Author
    last month

    WOW..that was not acceptable either....what I'd like is an angled waterfall..like at a 45 degree angle

  • mama goose_gw zn6OH
    last month
    last modified: last month

    I have no opinion on whether or not you should do a waterfall edge,
    but it seems that you could use a piece of wood the same thickness as
    the stone, and almost as wide, against the wall (brown block). Butt the
    slab up to it, maybe leaving a tiny gap for expansion. Install the 4"
    backsplash on top of the wood, then caulk. You would need a piece on the
    very end of the splash, to cover the wood block. (Cut the wood piece
    short of the edge of the countertop.) Or, you could cut the
    backsplash piece with a 'tooth' to fit over the wood filler piece.You
    might also need to screw wood pieces across the width of wider
    cabinets, to support the stone at the back of the cabinets (tan block).

    After seeing pics of some of the seams and cuts fabricators try to pass off on consumers, maybe that would just be asking for trouble.

  • HU-89935035
    Original Author
    last month

    OMG!!!..this is brilliant!!!..when I show my husband, I think he'll be able to do this with the fabricator on board...what do you think of water fall at a 45 degree angle with the quartzite..do you think it would come out good? Or is quartzite too finicky?

  • A S
    last month

    This is our waterfall seam. ❤️ it.

  • Design Girl
    last month

    Looking at mama gooses drawing I get it - What I don't get is why your original thought wouldn't work with a lot less trouble. I think what you said was to set the backsplash on the actual cabinet (moving it down to fill in mama gooses brown block, and then butt the counter up to that. That seems easier to me (if I'm understanding this correctly).

  • live_wire_oak
    last month

    The wood kludge simply is not going to work. Stone work has certain parameters, and you cannot join dissimilar expansion rated materials like that and expect success. You exceeded the parameters with the design. Make your peninsulas shorter. Or a different material.


    NONE of your seams will match in quartz with movement. Please have that expectation if you move forward. You’re designing in problems that do not need to exist.

    HU-89935035 thanked live_wire_oak
  • mama goose_gw zn6OH
    last month
    last modified: last month

    If the wood won't work, HU-----35, ask your fabricator if he has remnants the same thickness as your stone, which should expand at the same rate. He might be able to cut lengths of stone to replace the wood filler pieces in my drawing. If the seam where the filler piece and stone slab is filled prior to installation of the backsplash, there will be less chance of water using the seam as a channel to the cabinets. Which is the only reason I can think of that HU----35's original idea wouldn't work--water getting through the caulk line and running down the backsplash piece. I would imagine that every cut and every seam will add to the final cost, so although I think this should work, will it be worth it just for the waterfall? Also, as I mentioned before, we see complaints about a lot of imprecise cuts, where counters don't match contours of walls, and these cuts would need to be exact to get the length you need for the waterfall edge.

    You would need to have a serious talk with your fabricator, about whether your chosen stone can be cut at 45 degree angle without chipping and cracking.


  • chispa
    last month

    I'm seeing quartz and quartzite being used interchangeably in some of the replies ...

    quartz = man made

    quartzite = natural stone

  • HU-89935035
    Original Author
    last month

    The material is quartzite..I'm a little lost about the water issue..???..on that wall there is no sink..only countertops on both sides and the stove in the

  • HU-89935035
    Original Author
    last month

    Thank you all for all your input..I'm thinking I have no choice but to have a seam on each side of the peninsulas. We have 4 slabs so the fabricator will have to follow the pattern as best as can be done and just turn 1 slab around and go across 55" wide x 24" depth and then use the other slabs. It'll be seamless on the largest portion of counter top which is 55x 92

  • Design Girl
    last month

    @HU-89935035 - As I understand it now, I think the reason to first put down the counter, and then the backsplash is if there is any penetration from water - even a spill - it will not travel down to the cabinet - If you put the backsplash in first, and then butt the counter top up to it, the only material that will stop any water is the caulk. Makes sense to me now. Will it help if you don't do the waterfall edge? As stated before, it can be tricky to accomplish correctly, and if it would help to have a regular counter, I'd forget the waterfall. FWIW - I only see them done now in very very modern/minimalist spaces.

  • HU-89935035
    Original Author
    last month
    last modified: last month

    Thanks again...how about this?..make a 5" border or strip starting from the wall and make and seam the quartzite with the slab at that end of the counter. This will give me the lenghth I need whether I do waterfall or not (which we may consider to abort) loll..this means the right peninsula would have 2 seams ...one going across bc I need pattern matching and one coming fr wall 18"W X 25" length bc I'd hv to start the other slab at the end of the 1st cabinet that's closest to the oven...the left peninsula would have only the top seam going across...this way both countertops would be seamless except for where I joined them at the top?...my goal and concern is following the flow of the quartzite and putting the seam in the least exposed area....??? This whole drama stems from not being able to find at least 2 slabs that were approximately 88 or bigger by 120 in our color ...the only other option is to only have like a 6" over hang for the right peninsula, and just the seam across at the top..the left peninsula is not as wide ..

  • HU-89935035
    Original Author
    last month


    The orange level shows where the 25" seam will be and the tape measure shows the 85" length of where the other seam will be on the right peninsula

  • HU-89935035
    Original Author
    last month


    The left peninsula will only have that seam across ...I am hoping this can be done..even if we need to reinforce the open spaces with plywood like that first cabinet has in order to do this..this way the major part of the counter top will be seamless

  • Design Girl
    last month

    Yikes - I wouldn't do that.

    HU-89935035 thanked Design Girl
  • A S
    last month

    In finding it hard to visualize your plan but it kind of looks like a letter C with angles? If so, I would either want to opposite L shaped pieces of material that meet to create one seam only or two seams total.

  • mama goose_gw zn6OH
    last month

    Any chance you could replace the cabinet on the end of each run with a narrower cabinet, so that you would have sufficient stone to make the waterfall or overhang?

  • HU-89935035
    Original Author
    last month

    Design girl..why do you not agree with the cut???...

  • live_wire_oak
    last month
    last modified: last month

    Even 4 slabs of quartz are not enough to make that kitchen counter design come out well. 😬 Not unless there’s no movement.

  • HU-89935035
    Original Author
    last month

    AS - I am approx 1 1/2 " short on length and in the pic I posted, I would start the 2and slab after the 1st 18" cabinet in order to keep the pattern...I cannot for the life if me picture the slab turned sideways and able to match the pattern which would just give me 1 seam straight across...I just cannot see how my pattern would flow if the stone needed to be turned to where it's 115 across

  • A S
    last month

    What quartzite did you choose? Ours is quartz but has no movement. So that helps. We also chose everything to avoid there being a seam...

  • Design Girl
    last month

    I just think a 5 inch seam across the back is really going to look bad. I have to say, i'd rather remake the cabinets than do this. Is this all because of the waterfall edge - if it is, give that up.

  • PRO
    Joseph Corlett, LLC
    last month

    HU:


    If you were a potential customer of mine, you'd be scaring me because you're venturing wayyy to far into "how" for my comfort. Were I your fabricator, I may give you choice "A" or choice "B", but no way would you be placing seams.


    Sure, you're writing the check, but my name's on this thing for eternity. You can have your check back if I don't like your seam ideas. I predict trouble for this fabricator unless he puts this pony in her pen.

  • HU-89935035
    Original Author
    last month

    Lolll...I'm really not trying to be difficult.. I'm just trying to see if anything can be done with the less seams possible and in the most inconspicuous areas...

  • HU-89935035
    Original Author
    last month

    Design girl...the issue is not the waterfall at all...but probably the movement in the slab...and trying to put a seam in the least visual space so the majority of the slab is seamless...redoing the cabinets brings more complications like redoing the floor....the biggest thing is we could not find slabs long or wide