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Polka Dot plant has no bottom leaves left

4 years ago

My polka dot plant is not doing well and I am afraid it won’t make it. All the bottom leaves are gone now. After doing some researches, looks like the soil were still too moist and it might be getting enough indirect sun light.

Is there anything I can still do to bring it back to life? Any help is appreciated. Thanks!

Comments (3)

  • 4 years ago

    *Don't allow the plant to sit in the effluent that exits the drain hole.

    * Do this:
    immediately after a thorough
    watering, hold the pot in one hand over the sink, lawn, or
    over-sleeping significant other and move it downward, then sharply
    reverse the direction to upward. You'll immediately note that a good
    measure of 'excess' water will “continue downward in a straight
    line” and exit the drain hole. The sharper the reversal of
    direction, the more water exits the drain hole. When you have
    repeated the exercise until water no longer exits the drain hole on
    the reversal of direction, you will have eliminated all excess water
    and your plants will regard you with a newfound sense of awe.

    * Don't water until a tell stuck deep in the pot comes out barely moist or dry. See below.


    * Have you fertilized? You should be, regularly. I suggest you use Dyna-Gro's Foliage-Pro 9-3-6. You won't find a better choice.

    *Repotting into a fast-draining highly aerated medium would likely do wonders for your plants and your ability to keep them healthy.


    This should be helpful.

    Using a 'tell'

    Over-watering saps vitality
    and is one of the most common plant assassins, so learning to avoid
    it is worth the small effort. Plants make and store their own energy
    source – photosynthate - (sugar/glucose). Functioning roots need
    energy to drive their metabolic processes, and in order to get it,
    they use oxygen to burn (oxidize) their food. From this, we can see
    that terrestrial plants need plenty of air (oxygen) in the soil to
    drive root function. Many off-the-shelf soils hold too much water and
    not enough air to support the kind of root health most growers would
    like to see; and, a healthy root system is a prerequisite to a
    healthy plant.

    Watering in small sips leads
    to avoid over-watering leads to a residual build-up of dissolved
    solids (salts) in the soil from tapwater and fertilizer solutions,
    which limits a plant's ability to absorb water – so watering in
    sips simply moves us to the other horn of a dilemma. It creates
    another problem that requires resolution. Better, would be to simply
    adopt a soil that drains well enough to allow watering to beyond the
    saturation point, so we're flushing the soil of accumulating
    dissolved solids whenever we water; this, w/o the plant being forced
    to pay a tax in the form of reduced vitality, due to prolong periods
    of soil saturation. Sometimes, though, that's not a course we can
    immediately steer, which makes controlling how often we water a very
    important factor.

    In many cases, we can judge
    whether or not a planting needs watering by hefting the pot. This is
    especially true if the pot is made from light material, like plastic,
    but doesn't work (as) well when the pot is made from heavier
    material, like clay, or when the size/weight of the pot precludes
    grabbing it with one hand to judge its weight and gauge the need for
    water.

    Fingers stuck an inch or two
    into the soil work ok for shallow pots, but not for deep pots. Deep
    pots might have 3 or more inches of soil that feels totally dry,
    while the lower several inches of the soil is 100% saturated.
    Obviously, the lack of oxygen in the root zone situation can wreak
    havoc with root health and cause the loss of a very notable measure
    of your plant's potential. Inexpensive watering meters don't even
    measure moisture levels, they measure electrical conductivity. Clean
    the tip and insert it into a cup of distilled water and witness the
    fact it reads 'DRY'.

    One of the most reliable
    methods of checking a planting's need for water is using a 'tell'.
    You can use a bamboo skewer in a pinch, but a wooden dowel rod of
    about 5/16” (75-85mm) would work better. They usually come 48”
    (120cm) long and can usually be cut in half and serve as a pair.
    Sharpen all 4 ends in a pencil sharpener and slightly blunt the tip
    so it's about the diameter of the head on a straight pin. Push the
    wooden tell deep into the soil. Don't worry, it won't harm the root
    system. If the plant is quite root-bound, you might need to try
    several places until you find one where you can push it all the way
    to the pot's bottom. Leave it a few seconds, then withdraw it and
    inspect the tip for moisture. For most plantings, withhold water
    until the tell comes out dry or nearly so. If you see signs of
    wilting, adjust the interval between waterings so drought stress
    isn't a recurring issue.

    Al

  • 4 years ago

    Hi Al, Thank you so much for the information. Felt like I attended a crash course and learnt so much. I will try out the watering method and look to use the ‘tell’ for moist level checking. I haven’t been adding fertilizer other than using rice water and banana peels soaked water as some additional nutrients to the plant. Time to get some real fertilizer now. Thank you again. :)

  • 4 years ago

    Thank you for the kind words, B Li.


    Al