Aside from a question of look (your personal choice should decide that preference), there is the question of practicality; the marble tile will need to be sealed, maintained and is softer. Some marble tiles also require care with the thin set used. The porcelain tile has a harder surface (more durable) and if anything, only the grout will need to be sealed. Upkeep and maintenance would be minimal, if any. Yet, if nicked, the entire piece will need to be replaced (not the case with natural stone). Depending on the tile, it might mandate more visible grout lines, which may be something you either prefer or rather avoid. Good luck!

Thanks a lot I think yes the porcelain tiles will be better i needed a confirmation I am putting the hardwood floors in the hallway family room and living dining area u think its a good idea to carry the hardwood in powder room or should I do tiles same as kitchen in the washroom as I am doing tiles in the laundry room which is on the side also can someone comment to me if I should put the 12x24 grey tiles or should I put 17x36 tiles? I am soo confused I am attaching the existing kitchen photo and the grey tile colour along with the cambria counter top Thanks

A few years ago, we tore out the original pink bathroom in our 1940's cape cod in Minneapolis and put in a white/grey marble tile on the floor and shower surround. For my first major DIY project, I think it turned out pretty well (check out the pictures). But as everything has completely dried/settled, some issues started to appear that I need help to fix. As many of you probably know, houses built in this era are never level or square. Due to this issue, we couldn't get the cast iron tub perfectly level and square in the opening. It's off about 3/8" over the 5 foot tub. When laying the subway tile in the shower surround, I had my ledger board perfectly level, but didn't account for the slope in tub. As a result, I have about a 1/2+" gap between the bottom of the tile and the tub in the back corner and the caulking has failed multiple times as it isn't designed for that large of an opening. The tiles along the failed caulking have absorbed water and have discolored, which is driving me crazy. The solution I have come up with is to use the leftover tile to cover the opening. I had the 3"x6" subway tiles cut down the middle the long way, and a 1/2" bevel put on the factory cut edge. So now I have a 1.5" x 6" tile with a honed bevel that I will lay level with the tub deck to cover the opening. My question to the Houzz Community is what adhesive should I use to bond the new tile to the existing honed tile? There will be no cement board or other typical material for the adhesive to bond to. Will the standard modified thinset work or should I look at using a marble adhesive caulk like this Loctite product (http://www.homedepot.com/p/Loctite-10-fl-oz-PL530-Mirror-Marble-and-Granite-Adhesive-1693636/203438035). Any recommendations are greatly appreciated! Thanks! Aaron.

In my opinion, if you're going to do tile in your kitchen, then don't try to make it look like wood. There are so many fun tiles out there!!! I don't mind the wood tile in a bathroom as much, but I don't love it in a kitchen. I have wood in my kitchen now and it is great. Agree with everyone's comments about the flooding - if you have a major flood, you will have to replace everything anyway and it should be mostly covered by insurance. And we have those wifi sensors that alert you if the temperature gets too high/low in the house and also if anything with water in it leaks or overflows. Also, we have real wood in one house in our kitchen and tile in our other house's kitchen and the wood is so much nicer to walk on in bare feet. And things are less likely to break when dropped on wood vs hard tile.