What Mint said, and no way to know if you should flip the door as we have no plan to go off of.

Mint Tile, can this be done after quartz wall caps and tile have already been installed? Sounds like a cleaner solution but the shower is already tiled and quartz and curb stone already in place. Perhaps it could be easily done at the top where it is just tile.

Maybe remove the top part and attach with something else? I don’t know. My shower is not steam so it didn’t need to be all the way to the top

I am ditching the "frameless" look because I don't like all the blobs. I'd rather mount the glass with channel around the edges to reduce / eliminate ,many of the clips. I find the channel more minimalist.

I am also digging the BLACK accents on showers these days that accentuate the frame - but that may not be appropriate for your space

Why is the door so narrow? I did most of my showers with 34" or 36" doors. You just need to use heavy duty hinges, which are a bit more expensive, but an insignificant increase when compared to the whole cost of the remodel!

I have a few clips on mine as well but they don’t bother me.

You are also looking at just the shower enclosure. You need to put the shower enclosure in some perspective, it will have tile and other surroundings.

The shower design may be frameless, but it is certainly not seamless. The clips hold the many glass seams in place. You may want to change the design of the shower to use fewer and larger pieces of glass but that may require an additional clip for each seam.

As mint mentioned channel of mini clips will definitely be less pronounced than the clips.

I encourage my clients to get pre-built steam showers in a new build so much better all the way around and can have all the bells and whistles too like music, lighting etc.

Thank you but as I mentioned in my post, the shower enclosure is already
built and tiled, so that ship has sailed.

Steelgirl065 your shower looks nice. I don’t mind the clips and I know they aren’t there for looks but they serve an important purpose. Unfortunately, I count EIGHTEEN plus the hinges on mine. I’m going to see if they can use some corner clips to eliminate a few.
Chispa, the door is narrow because the glass returns on each side in the front requiring a panel on each side. I chose to center the door as the enclosure is centered as you look into the bathroom. Perhaps one very narrow panel on the left of the door, a larger door and a larger panel on the right would be better, but I like symmetry. I’m going to reach out to the designer to go back to the drawing board.

Thanks all for your suggestions.

A better design, from the beginning, with channels, as mentioned, would have been how to handle this. That can’t be retrofitted. Most experienced pros would have discussed the idea with you in the design phase though.

Which brings up undiscussed things. What vapor proofing system was used to keep moisture out of the walls? What type of ceiling detail did they build in?

Try looking up Schluter SG profile channel. It will get rid of all your clips along the wall and ceiling if the ceiling will be tiled. They have it in 1/2 for 3/8 glass or 9/16 for 1/2 glass. I’m using it in my curbless shower tu hold a glass panel

Shoot. Just saw that your shower is already tiled!

Thanks, cetb. To all who have given helpful feedback, I thank you.
Celadon, to answer your question, my very experienced builder put in Schulter- KERDI waterproof system. The ceiling is tiled and sloped appropriately. I am building a fully custom home, selecting everything down to the door hinges. Occasionally a detail might slip through. The shower is going to be beautiful either way, I was merely asking for suggestions to make it look it’s best. Through discussion with the glass installer, we have come up with a solution that is quite satisfactory. I also have a very experienced tile installer who could cut channels if necessary.

Again, thanks for those with helpful comments. Hopefully I will be able to offer some help to others through my experience.

Can you share what you and the installer come up with? I also came up with a potential solution, which is still possible at this stage of the game despite what Celadon (also known by JuneKnow and live_wire_oak, among other aliases) thinks. Hopefully you recognized that her comment was just an attempt to find fault with your project. Please don’t take the bait, @Susan Helsley!

At the risk of further criticism, this is what we came up with. Eliminate the transom (glass installer said we could run cold water for a few seconds after steaming to knock the steam down and then leave the door slightly ajar after showering. He will install a full-height door with a pivot hinge, thereby eliminating the 3 glass to glass hinges that are currently installed. The pivots will go into the top and base of the enclosure providing plenty of support for the glass door, which will also be made a couple of inches wider. I still have some questions about allowing for drying the shower, but have asked him to work on another drawing so we can talk about it. I’m not sure if it would help to leave a small gap at the top of the door for some ventilation ? I’ll leave that to the experts ( the shower installer, that is!). The house has 10ft ceilings throughout, but we lowered the ceiling in the master bath so the steam shower wouldn’t be so tall and to generally make it cozier. I’d love to hear about your idea as well. I’ll share the drawing the installer comes up with if you like.
Since this was my first,(and likely my last ) request for help, can you share how you were able to tag me so I can respond directly to those who comment? Thanks for your comment ;)

Seems a little busy - take a look at the attached photo which is similar to your “shape” and seems to have less clips (could be that the glass is thicker). For the fixed panel above the door - will you always want a steam shower? If not, you might want to consider hinging this piece so it can be open or closed. Regarding whether or not to centre the door, that depends on whether you’re a lover of symmetry.

I like the corner clips here as well as the smaller transom. Our glass is 1/2 “ ( overkill, I know) so there were certain requirements based on size/weight of the panels. My preference would be a transom that opens just to avoid moisture issues if it’s too tightly sealed. (Yes I have KERDI barrier behind the tile) I really like this narrow one! Even just hinging the transom would eliminate the top 2 clips. It wouldn’t, however allow us to get rid of the 3 glass to glass door hinges. I kind of like the idea of the door being supported at the top and floor.
Thanks for sharing. It gives me another option to discuss with the installer :)

Found another photo that has even fewer clips but can’t quite see how it’s attached to the ceiling:

That’s a beaut! Wonder how they got away with so few clips...? I see the door is hinged on the solid wall, which is nice.

Just one word of advice based on my own personal experience - for my own bathroom, the glass fabricator and installer insisted the door had to be hinged onto a stud wall - I went with his advice and compromised on the design. I really dislike what I ended up with and wished I would have shopped around for fabricators .... the photos prove that it doesn’t always need to be done a certain way....