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ralph_zone8_nc

Pre-finished Hardwood/Eng Hardwood recommendation

5 years ago
last modified: 5 years ago

We are looking to install pre-finished hardwood for the 1st (on slab) and 2nd floor.
Does the JANKA rating really much?
We are trying to match the existing engineered wood in our dining room.
A flooring contractor said it looked like Bruce Gunstock.
All the flooring contractors have recommended Solid Hardwood for the 2nd floor and nailed-down. Has anyone installed engineered wood in the 2nd floor? And if there is a leak from the restrooms, which is more durable or easier to fix - hardwood or engineered hardwood?
The price difference between solid and engineered hardwood for 1400 sq ft is $1500- $2000. Personally doesn't seem that much of a difference , so is it worth it to go with hardwood?
To be honest, we have carpets and anything other than carpet is ok, so I don't mind saving the $2k as well but definitely don't want to go for LVP or Laminate.
Are these good brands to consider -
Bruce Gunstock Oak Smooth Engineered Hardwood - $2.59 sq ft (3/8in. Thick x 3in.)
Bruce Gunstock Oak Smooth Hardwood - $3.54 / sq ft (3/4in. Thick x 3 1/4in.) can be refinished 3 times
I have been reading all over that hardwoods can be refinished so many times, so is 3 considered many? :)
3. Bruce Hickory Chestnut Eng wood - $3.29/sq ft
4. American Spirit Molasses Hickory Smooth Solid Hardwood - 3/4in. Thick x 3 1/4in. Refnished - 2,JANKA - 1820,hardness rating 4/5
Any recommendations as to where I can get pre-finished Hardwood will be greatly appreciated.
Thank you!

Comments (8)

  • 5 years ago

    Ok...first things first. Janka hardness ratings only apply to solid hardwood. Engineered planks do not work with Janka because the plied layers underneath are often 'soft woods'. Considering Janka measures how much force it takes to imbed a metal ball into the wood, it isn't possible to offer Janka scores for engineered. They just don't compute.


    The next thing I'm going to point out is the oddity of trying to match the ENTIRE HOUSE to a single room of existing hardwood. You have a small amount of hardwood that is dictating the rest of the house. It's not impossible but it is HIGHLY unusual.


    In other words, you are trying to put down more than a thousand square feet of flooring by trying to match 150 - 250sf of dining room (I don't know the size of your dining room so I'm only guessing here). That's a little like putting the cart before the horse.


    Usually we see this the other way around. Usually we have a house full of hardwood (big amount) but the bedrooms have carpet (small amount). The homeowners then agonize over getting a match for the smaller area. That is normal.


    As for your price range that you are looking at, they are too low and a little thin. The gold standard is 3/4" thickness (solid or engineered). An engineered product with 3mm or more of wear layer is the base level. The thicker the wear layer the more times a floor can be refinished. The Gold standard is 6mm wear layer (usually in the $10/sf range).


    If you are having a hard time finding floors that you like, you might want to think about replacing the dining room at the same time. This takes away all the pressure to work with low-grade hardwoods just to get a match to a small amount of hardwood.


    Solid or engineered should be more than what you are looking at for price. Prefinished wood flooring should be in the $7/sf just to start and they go up from there.

    ralph_zone8_nc thanked SJ McCarthy
  • 5 years ago

    SJ thank you, yes we are looking to have a different hardwood floor for the 2nd floor(1300 sq ft). I have updated my post, the planks are 3 1/4 in width and 3/4 inch in thickness. So 3/4 = 19mm which is ok right?

  • 5 years ago

    A 3/4" hardwood (solid or engineered) is a great product. The manufacturer's finish and the accuracy of the milling becomes the most important part.


    Again, the question becomes, why are you trying to save a small amount of dining room flooring?

  • 5 years ago

    The first floor has engineered wood in the dinning, hallway and living room. Family room (300 sqft) is carpeted. Kitchen is tiled. We are happy with the Kitchen being left as is. We don't have the budget to change all the existing wood area on the first floor. Second floor, I am not concerned if the colors don't match. Waiting on more quotes.

    I like this -

    Gunstock Oak Smooth Solid Hardwood Bruce (3/4in thick. x 2 1/4in wide plank.) - $3.74/sq ft



  • 5 years ago
    last modified: 5 years ago

    Bumping this up...is there a time which is best for installing hardwood/engineered floors?

    I read somewhere that Spring is a better time than Winter. Thoughts?

  • 5 years ago

    I wish I saw your response in the AM..we just had our HVAC guy come and service our furnace. Anyway will ask him..to my best knowledge we don't have this "humidity control system". I have family in Illinois and they do have some humidifier with their unit. (60s home). Sounds like this is more of a Northern or Colder places tend to have this with their HVAC? Regardless will ask my tech. Thank you again!

  • 5 years ago

    Ask what type of product is needed (in your local micro-climate) to keep your house (tell them square footage) in a humidity range between 35% - 60% (should sit around 45% in real life setting). They can do the calculations from there.