@thisisnotadrill I think I get what you're saying. But wouldn't you want a corner bead there to protect that corner? I'd worry about its fragility.

I was thinking of the kerdi board overlapping the edge of the drywall. Then put in the edge profile, put painters tape over it, and fill the exposed kerdi wall end and that crack with mud/compound and paint. But I can't picture how that would look....or how I would keep all the mud off the painters tape, especially when I pull it off if the compound had dried. If you have a pic I'd love to see it. Thanks!

How is your project going??

Cornerbead.

@thisisnotadrill i am about 3/4 through demo. Started 2 days ago. Everything is pretty straight forward so far except one plumbing issue. I am removing a jacuzzi tub and tiled surround. I had planned to remove the water lines from near the basement to avoid having stagnant water sitting in the pipe if I capped it below the subfloor. But...they extended the cold water line to the toilet so I need to do some rerouting of that water line down below the subfloor and then back up to the original supply location. Other than that, it's going well.

@thisisnotadrill could you post that picture please

@Charlie Baum wondering how your project is going!!!

@thisisnotadrill Slow and steady. Doing final coat of mud now. Got sidetracked by a couple things but I'm about ready to sand and prime. Then tile. Here's a pic of the kerdi shower. Pretty straight Forward except for having to wet shim the walls.

looking great! nice and clean! Are you doing a curb or curbless?

@thisisnotadrill Curbless. The pan area is recessed down to the joists which was no picnic with the engineered I joists. Schluter pan is cut and going in soon.

What did you decide to do with the outside corner on the right side of the picture? We are working on a similar transition. We left about 1.5" of drywall on the inside edge of the corner. Our thought is the transition to Kerdi board will be outside the shower door and we can get away with less than 2" of Kerdi band overlap. Interested to hear your strategy.

@mrb_1 - That is the correct method. Your existing cornerbead remains in tact and the Kerdi band covers the vertical joint. Keep the band approx. 1/4" in from the outside edge. You can end your tile with cap / bullnose or a tile profile edge. Which folks on Houzz call Schluter for some reason. Yes Schluter provides them as do many other manufacturers.

Thank you!

I am going to put the schluter profile on the edge of the kerdi band but overlapping the exposed edge of the drywall. Tile will go right to that. when that is installed I will finish mud that bit of exposed drywall on the other edge and feather it right into the door casing.

Charlie, I would still install cornerbead first to reinforce the corner. You have worked with Kerdi board and are fully aware how rigid it is NOT. Impact on that corner relying on the foam board is risky. IMO

My issue with the corner bead was build up of The corner bead under the schluter profile, throwing off my tile plane.

I understand your valid concern. The size of your selected tile will determine if it's a issue that needs addressing. Large format (any edge over 15") will not matter as the mortar setting bed will be thick enough. Smaller tile such as 3x6 subway you would flash off with the flat side of a trowel prior to setting tile. Keep in mind you did use foam board. It could be notched to eliminate any build up due to corner bead.

So far you've dealt with I joists and wet shimming. Good work!

Have you researched capillary break?

Not sure in what context of a bathroom capillary break applies. I am all ears though.

I expect that you will install glass panels. Water will migrate by capillary action through the grout and tile setting mortar. Yes uphill also. Similar to placing a sponge in water. Certainly not to that extreme just a example. Using the breaking point where the floor tile is flat and the slope toward the drain begins. This is where the glass will be installed. This grout joint is the location for the capillary break. You basically want to create a dam so that water does not continue under the glass via grout and mortar. Seeing wet grout joints outside the glass sends a scare into folks thinking the shower is leaking. Knowing that the entire bathroom floor has been waterproofed. Including flashed up the walls behind base board actual water damage is not a concern. Will this happen on all showers? No. The possibility can be eliminated. This detail is part of a barrier free installation. Honestly, most pros leave this out. I can only provide advice according to TCNA standards.

To achieve this break tape off the substrate at slope point to prevent setting mortar from shower floor to continue onto the bath floor. Your goal is to have a sealant joint from surface to waterproofing.

NOTE: (Not in the book) I have used expansion profiles such as Schluter BWA and set that into the sealant for a clean finish look instead of a sealant joint at the surface.. Being sure to seal ends. Hopefully photos will help explain. Sorry for being long winded.

https://www.schluter.com/schluter-us/en_US/Profiles/Movement-Joint-Profiles/Perimeter-Joints/Schluter%C2%AE-DILEX-BWA/p/DILEX_BWA

Very interesting. I appreciate long winded as it makes more sense. What's frustrating is I've watched no less than 20 videos on curbless shower and not once have I heard the term capillary break been brought up. I even rewatched some last night and none of them do it. So it appears I can use a schluter product as you mentioned or perhaps a bead of silicone in that break? I'll have to look into this a bit more. Thanks for the explanation.

@Creative Tile Eastern CT:

I realize I'm resurrecting an old thread, so if I should move this question to a new one, please let me know.

I found this discussion while researching how to transition from kerdi-board to drywall on top of a pony wall. The pony wall will have tile on the inside of the shower, and the top. There will be a glass panel on top of the pony wall, and then the side of the pony wall outside the shower will be painted drywall.

Your last post has me a little concerned about moisture traveling from the top of the pony wall, down the outside, which would obviously be very bad. I think I follow your suggestion to put a "break" in, but not sure how I can do that on top of the wall. There will be a schluter deco sg (SG100AE12) channel in the middle of the top of the pony wall, embedded in the tiled top for the glass panel. There will also be Rondec on the outside corner where tile top meets the drywall side. I imagine you do this all of the time, so hopefully you have a good solution?

Thanks in advance for lending your expertise. It is greatly appreciated.

It would be best if you start a new thread.

@Charlie Baum wondering how your proejct turned out!? all good?

Hey thanks for asking! It's been a 'long term' project after all. I'm 95% done though. I took like 2 months off over the summer and didn't even step in there as was on vacation/fishing/traveling. Got back onto it in Sept. I just need to install the vanity, do some caulking and it's done. Here's a pic of the shower stall. I am extremely pleased with how it turned out. The floor is not as great as I would like, there's a little lippage between pan tiles and floor tiles but overall I'm happy. Not to toot my own horn but the shower walls came out awesome and I'm really proud of them with 24x24 polished porcelain tiles and schluter jolly profiles as well as Delta hardware and schluter corner shelves. Glass guy is coming next Monday.

the pic didn't post! @Charlie Baum

@thisisnotadrill Sorry, hope this time it works.

WOW! INCREDIBLE. I love the tile choices. how was it to work with that large format tile on the walls? It's funny, the dimensions look similar to the size space I was working with. I also did corner shelves like that, but the slightly elongated schluter ones. Great work, I hope you're proud of it!

Thank you, very kind words. I am actually very proud of how well it came out, being my first ever vertical tiling effort. The only slight lippage there is, and its not really noticeable is the bottom row where I couldn't use tile leveling clips due to the ledger board. But I'm probably the only one who will ever know it's there. I really enjoyed the large format on the walls for a couple reasons. I was going for a marble slab look and that was the best way to go about it. Few grout lines was another reason. And lastly, just fewer tiles to hang. But putting large tiles up made me very grateful I spent the extra time and effort to make the walls plumb and square. I do love the schluter corner shelves. Sure beats the (in my opinion) dated look of those big bulky tile/carrera corner shelves. The top two are the same model Shelf-E squared off and the bottom is a Shelf-E triangle for my wife to put her foot to help her shave her leg.

BTW....the best investment I made for tiling was a suction cup. Absolute game changer.

i also gotta say i love how you matched the veining on the tiles that sit in the corner, just between the top and middle shelf :) it looks continuous!

do you recall the make/model of the floor tile? I am planning on redoing my kitchen and was looking for something similar.

Thanks! @thisisnotadrill That was one 24" tile I cut in half for that. I am not sure why I didn't try to do that more. I do wish one or two of the full tiles was oriented differently, but when you're right up close to 24" tile it's hard to see the big picture. But overall I like it. Here's a link to the tile I got. Not sure if you're in the PA/DE area but I opened an account with them and paid $5.99/sqft instead of the advertised price. Plus no sales tax. Woot. https://tilemarketofde.com/products/in-stock-tile/statuario-lux-24x24/

@Charlie Baum. How did you end up handling the outside corner? It looks good. Did you use a cornerbead or did you just place the profile at the very edge of the Kerdiboard and then fill the drywall side with mud? I had been planning on doing the same thing you mentioned as your original plan early on in this thread.

@Jonathan Gunnell Hey Jon! Yup I just put the schluter profile right on the edge of the kerdi board. Since the wall wasn't perfectly straight, and the profiles have a little bit of give to them, I actually used a couple small nails to maintain a perfect edge along the kerdi board and used mortar to 'glue' it in place and let it cure. I made sure to keep the tile side completely clear of mortar. Doing this also keeps the profile from 'walking' while the thinset cures up. Once cured, I pulled the nails and used kerdifix on the holes. Then I laid tile. I used the factory edge of drywall along the profile so to finish it, I perfectly taped the edge of the profile and just caulked that seam. Waited a few minutes and pulled the tape and it was damn near perfect. As good as I could get it. There wasn't enough of a gap to need to mud it, the caulk did it. Then painted the caulk and I was good.

@Charlie Baum thanks for the quick response! I extended the Kerdi board on the corner already but it sounds like I may want to cut it back to the edge of the stud and redo the drywall pieces with a factory edge overlapping the Kerdi board if I want to try your method, right? Otherwise, I'll have to try to mud over the foam edge of the Kerdi board in order to paint it and blend it into the drywall. I've got plenty of extra drywall so that won't be an issue.

@Jonathan Gunnell Yeah I would recommend having the factory drywall edge covering the edge of the kerdi board if you can. Although I've heard and read that you can mud kerdi board just as easily as drywall, but covering the edge of the kerdi board with factory edge of drywall makes finishing much simpler in my opinion.