To help free the counter top on the hall bathroom, I would put tiny shelves where you have an empty space. Guests can put their tooth brushes, tooth paste, hair brush etc.

Make sure the left wall is thin (like just a giproc sheet) so you get at least 6 in. wide shelves. I would not make them too deep to make it easier to grab things and to clean.

@Karenseb @suzanne_m as a reminder the master bath is on the right.. I am working off of standard tub sizes on the left and went with 54". (is there anything else between 60" tub and 54?)

That is driving the width of the guest bath on the left. Love the idea of shelves. A little nervous about them since they would be part of our DIY scope.....

I am not completely sure about making the hall bathroom 5'0" as I like to have more room in front of the vanity and when you get out of the shower in the bathroom you use daily but both options have pros and cons.

If you choose to make your hall bathroom few inches wider, I would also move the tub to the left. Not only you will have more space in front of the toilet but you would also have more space when you get out of the tub or when you bath a toddler. By moving the tub, your wall shared with your master ensuite vanity could be deeper. That could be a good place to add a deep niche with multiple shelves where you can place shampoo but also small toys for toddlers.

You might also consider to put the drain of the shower in a place where you don't stand directly over it when you shower. It is more comfortable to the feet.

I was thinking that the master bath would be 5 feet wide ( that is a standard width, but more is always better).

Your hall bath would be 3 inches less than standard at 4 feet 9 inches.

As Suzanne said, the 54 inch tub would be pulled left to the left wall and you would have a 3 inch dead space behind the tub. With the wider hall bath, you would have a 27/29 inch space in front of the toilet instead of 24/26

I like Suzanne's idea for shelves nest to sink if it works out.

To save space in front of the toilet you may consider a tankless toilet (that would give you more space when you get out of the shower). I am not familiar with these toilets but here is a link about what you need to know. I did not read it:

http://toiletsandmore.com/what-you-need-to-know-about-tankless-toilets/

Is the tile hallway the only issue with moving the master bedroom door? I think replacing a few tiles an dry walling an opening would be significantly less than installing 2 bathrooms.

@Cherie There are lots of issues with moving the bedroom door. There is a post shortly above this one that shows pictures describing these items: There is crown moulding in the bedroom that would need to be reconfigured all around the 'nook' behind the french doors, and i'd probably have to purchase new crown to extend the entire length of the wall instead of piecing together existing pieces. Reconfiguring the closet and walls in the bedroom would also affect the carpet in this room, which does not need to be replaced (not worn or too dated) if I don't move walls around. The layout was like this when I purchased this home, so thinking modestly, I face-lifted the hallway tile (DIY). I also added closet shelving and lights inside the 'nook' and the closet. (DIY). It used to be a single bar across, and no other storage. These built ins and light fixtures would have to be taken out and relocated to a new closet space, but they were sized to fit this one. The detailing around the guest bedroom door is unique, and I would need to recreate it on the new bedroom door on account of them being across from each other. This would mean exposing the space under the existing wall. This space is hardwood, so i'm not sure if the hardwood continues under the wall or not, since it was a renovation from a previous owner. If the hardwood does not continue, then there is that issue. I also replaced the door slabs and hardware to match my style on the french doors, since the doors were already there and french when i got here, again facelift purposes. I'd be just throwing that all away by undoing it.

Basically, extending the renovation beyond the scope of the bathroom has huge snowball effect construction implications, undoes alot of DIY work I've already done, (which doesn't look bad, considering they were modest upgrades.. there are photos in the description) and is an easy way to blow up the budget on something that was supposed to save me money.. ya know? (Unless I'm wildly missing something.. )

@Karenseb I edited the plan to make the master bath 5'0" even. I like this. It seems to split the difference better between the two.

Update: the two bathroom plan with us doing everything DIY except for moving/locating plumbing is 15k. We will probably have to revise these plans, or go back to the one-bathroom.... which is pretty much square one with this post, lol. Just FYI for anyone who is wondering how much moving plumbing costs, or if it was going to be a wash between one bathroom and two smaller ones

What’s the estimate for doing one bathroom?

One option where no plumbing is moved. Personally, with minimal change to plumbing, I would rotate the vanity to fit on the South wall.

The plumbing of a tub or shower cannot go on an exterior wall (or maybe yes if you live in a hot/warm climate). However, you could maybe install a plumbing for a shower if you add an extra layer of wall where you current vanity is. That would be nice because I think the shower should be in that location.

We had another quote for the 1 bathroom plan (with the door) for 10-11k, with no DIY work for us. It's really hard to compare them because it's sort of apples to oranges... I'm trying to get a 3rd quote.. What are your thoughts?

It’s not my money, so I don’t have thoughts on how you should spend yours :) But I just wanted you to compare the costs of 1 vs 2 bathrooms instead of assuming 2 baths would be twice as much.

ok people. decisions have been made: 2 bathroom design.. This is where I'm heading with the design

I hope that toilet isn't up against the bedroom wall or if someone needs the bathroom in the middle of the night, you might regret it.

The only thing I would consider moving the bed on the other wall or buy a head board that has 2 little side tables attached to it. Personally, I find a night table is a must.

BTW, what is the design app are you using? You do such a great job using it :).

@cpartist You can see from the first image that the sink is eclipsed in the bedroom view, and the toilet is on the other side of the sink.

@suzanne_m I'm literally struggling with that exact dilemma. I also don't want to lose the nightstands, but the other wall is an exterior wall with a window. I feel so "wrong" putting the bed up on them. Any pictures I see with that condition just feel kind of dorky to me. Am I just being 'old school' with that? These are existing nightstands, and there is no option for new ones. My dad made them for me so if I have nightstands, they really have to be these.

Also i'm using Revit for documentation and the rendering engine, Enscape. Thanks :)

What are the dimensions of your nightstands? I just wonder if they can be turned sideways only for the time you stay in that house. It may look a bit funny and it may be harder to get out of the bed because they will take more room lengthwise but you get to keep them and you have the functionality too ... or can your dad make new ones and you place the large ones somewhere else in the house? Or just accept to put the bed under the window. As you said before it is not your forever home.

I am a bit lost when you say Revit for documentation? Do you add documentation to your renderings? Is the app easy to learn? How much does it cost? Can it run in Windows?

Love your renderings.

I think I like the bed on the bathroom wall if possible. Then you can have a nice headboard. Perhaps you can use one of the nightstands and do lighting on the wall behind the bed.

My original bedroom had only one nightstand and lamp on the nightstand and I used a floor lamp on the other side like you have shown. I guess it depends on how much wall space you have left on that wall for the bed after putting in a door with trim.

@suzanne_m oof, unfortunately they have a drawer.. which would be even more storage loss if we went without. I actually just started using Enscape for rendering so I actually don't have a "usual" with rendering. These images were me trying to learn the buttons :x, but Revit is software for creating construction documents. That is what I drew the floor plans in. It's not really an app, it's software. I'd say equal in caliber to Photoshop in complexity and depth.

@KarensebI will triple check dimensions tonight. I believe the only bed option that will fit on that wall is a Full with both nightstands (the existing setup), or a Queen with one. The size shown in that rendering is a California King, mostly because my bf already has a mattress. So we were trying to only have to buy a new frame, rather than mattress and frame and the whole shebang. Always balancing what sucks the least with how much you want to preserve!

Existing furniture (Full/double size bed)

I was thinking to turn your tables so that the drawers open away from the bed (towards the closet and the window). It is not as practical because you can't have access to the storage when seating on the bed but at least the top surface of the table is just by your bed.

Thank you for the explanation of the software. I use photoshop but just the basic stuff. I did not take the time to learn the fancy stuff but maybe one day.

I have a California King mattress with 24 inch wide nightstands. One nightstand with the bed uses 108 inches, but I have quite a bit of room between the bed and nightstand (almost 8 inches to the headboard and even more to the mattress) I wanted the nightstand centered under the window :) I could easily fit the one nightstand and bed into a 104 inch space I think.

Shown is a queen and the two nightstands.. :( I feel stuck.. once again...

There are *some* pros to being under the window.. it is a little more private for when people come through the front door and wouldn't see right onto your bed, it would be toward the dresser and art. Also the pathway to the bathroom is more direct, but i'm just trying to convince myself at this point lol..

I would go for it. It has many advantages.

Why don’t you try your current bed under the window for a week, and see what you think?

Why two sinks? Do you really need two, or just the additional storage space around/near the sink?

Why a tub? Why not a shower to save space?

I think if it was me I might steal the closet from the other bedroom and move the toilet there next to the new tub placement and then you have room for a nice large vanity and a door from the master into the bathroom. Since the guest bedroom won’t be used often you could put an armoire in there for a place for clothing hanging space.

I agree with the idea of trying the bed on the other side for a week or so and see how you feel about it.

Can you do a rendering with placing the two nightstands right on the edge of the door and closet frames and see if you like it better than the bed under the window? You can also just to physically move the right nightstand on that location shown in my drawing. It might tell you right away that you don't like it or if it is worth to spend the time making a rendering of the whole thing.

@suzanne_m the only bed size that fits like you sketched is a Full. That is what I have now, but SO is 6-3 and his feet hang off the bottom >.< a problem 5-2 me knows nothing about! I absolutely like that placement better, but it doesn't fit with a larger bed and the nightstands :(

@pett98, no I don't need two sinks, (in the one bathroom plan) but that's the 3d model I was working with and it was really just a placeholder for a vanity that length. As for the tub, everyone says we need one for resale and would regret it if we had a kid in this home. This is the only bathroom. Hence the evolution of the 2 bathroom plan

In order to make that other wall work, it would have to be a Queen and one nightstand. The other would have to be moved to a different room. The problem there is that SO already has a CA king mattress, so we were hoping to only have to buy a new frame..

I'll render it, but I believe it pushed everything wayy off center (to the opposite direction of whichever side had the nightstand) on that wall being so asymmetrical

Could you get a frame for the CA king that includes a headboard with some shelves/a surface/a storage area? It would bump the bed maybe 8”-1’ farther into the room, but then you could eliminate your side tables, and keep your bed balanced on the wall.

Here is a queen with one nightstand, everything is pushed left about 8" off center

If this is a shared bathroom and the top bedroom is the master, I would want a direct door into the bathroom from the master bedroom. The existing door from the hall could have a lock added for privacy. Our two girls shared a bathroom arrangement like this and I hung a key to the hall/ bathroom door outside the bathroom (on the upper part of the door trim) so the daughter from the lower room would not have to go all the way around through her sister’s bedroom if she failed to unlock the hall door before leaving the bathroom. It worked fine.

We had a shared door/bathroom in the house I grew up in. It posed no problems. It will be super convenient for you.

@Kim Mawhiney oof, that's probably how the house was originally laid out but long story short, a previous owner renovated it to be the way it is, and i've already facelifted these areas to be modest in using the current layout. The glass doors were a minor upgrade, the hallway tile, and a closet system in that closet. There are photos above in the comments.. :/

Hair cuts for women

I think your best option is to place the bed under the large window with a low headboard . Look for a headboard that aligns with the bottom of the single window if possible. Then the bed is centered and you can use both nightstands. The king bed is worth it!

You'll find the door is always locked, Use the space for some else.

If you decide to put the bed under the window, extend the curtain rods and panels to a bit wider position so the curtains frame the bed. That extra width balances the bed. Really makes a difference visually. Also a low headboard.

@Trish Reinert the window sill is 29". Even the lowest of headboards won't be below that. Does that change anyone's thoughts?

Have you thought of using pocket doors to save some space?

You can still use a low headboard.
An “airy” open look headboard that lets a little of the windows light come through would probably be best. Thinking woven, wrought metal or wooden slats etc- just to let some of the windows light pass through. Creates a “picture “ especially if you then frame the bed with wider curtain rods so the drapes can extend a little farther out from the side of the bed.

@Dave Anderson I have not thought about pocket doors; the door to the guest bathroom will be existing to remain, making the master bedroom door the only one in the house that would be that way

@Trish Reinert I'm still concerned about fading of the fabric from the light, and also about blocking the heat vent that is directly below this window. The dry air will crack any wood frame eventually so I think I'd be limited to metal. I considered the Parsons bed from Room and Board for the same thoughts you had..

How about this? Sorry editing on my phone... but move closer to where blue is and put in doors where green lines are...

Try smaller nightstands too. I just replaced mine with 14” on each side. Previously only my husband’s side had a nightstand due to our wall length with a standard king.

If you are planning for kids, you might want the doors to face each other across that hallway, echoing someone’s suggestion above to move them despite the pre-existing finishing. If you only go for one door, another idea is to consider using kitchen cabinet boxes instead of a vanity and run them right up to the wall. You can then run the counter top right to the wall for a very smooth look with no dead space between the vanity and the wall. You’d only have to ‘finish’ the short side of the cabinets next to the toilet, and you could get doors custom made, or if you use IKEA boxes, there are some great “custom” outfitters who do doors and hardware measured for mounting on IKEA cabinets. Toilet right next to the door is unfortunate...

Without knowing the full layout and all adjacencies like what the room is next to the other bedroom. I’m NOT a fan of a Jack and Jill type bath especially being shared with the master. I’d close off the glass doors and shift the closet as mentioned or after the new layout gives more closet space in the other bedroom I’d use that as the master one since it’s more private. Repurpose the room with the glass doors as an office with desk/Murphy bed, a game room or even a home gym. In the new configuration that is if you can relocate plumbing depending if you are in a private home with a basement or crawl space (jacking concrete slabs can get expensive or open a can of worms). If the plumber comes back and it’s too costly to move the toilet and everything than swapping the door swing so it’s the vanity you see first would work too.