We've had clients look at the DBL/single ovens and no one has ever purchased them. The decision is always that the smaller oven is just not really functional and it's like a toaster oven - the temp has to be adjusted down not to burn everything and then it takes longer to cook. I would go for separate units or have the microwave be a mw/convection oven combination.

Fred S I want you to understand that 1. I didn't sign off on the cabinets. 2. I didn't give them a model number , I gave them dimensions regardless of my microwave being an ill fit, their box doesn't fit my dimensions I gave. So if I wanted to exchange for the elite microwave convection combo I can't because they made it to small. Now do you get it? Thanks but its not my fault, I don't build kitchens I buy them. Any person with 35 years experience gets a dimension of 30x16x16 should know that's not going to fit in a standard built in 30 in cabinet with a 28 in opening. Thank you.

Whirlpool 27” single self clean wall oven installed under counter sounds like a haunted house whoooo machine, problem from first use. Fan has been replaced, sound checked with meter (louder 20 feet away than 10 feet away), and Whirlpool says it is “within parameters” and “case closed.” The Brick Canada, where I bought it, says it is a Whirlpool problem. This oven is installed side by side with a Whirlpool convection oven, which technician says has a different fan and it is audible but quieter and not annoying. My fix is going to be replacing the plain oven with another convection oven and selling the noisy one. Buyer beware! Ironically I bought these ovens because the Whirlpool convection oven is highly rated by Consumer Reports. I guess they only make one good model - don’t buy any other one!

the wall should be the depth of the fridge without the doors. your fridge is counter depth, but not integrated. It will be great. The price increase and loss of capacity with a fully integrated fridge just doesn't make sense (although if money were no object, I would have one in a heartbeat). A good cabinet guy will make your fridge look built in. If going for a french door, make sure you have the space to fully open both of the doors so that you can slide the shelves and drawers out for cleaning. Squaring off the peninsular will help get you the space to move the fridge away from the dining room wall (I also think you could manage without a bar top on the peninsular as the brunch nook is right there). I think the advice about the dishwasher next to the fridge might be just to stop the fridge door being swung open and dented on the dishwasher handle…….you do need to think about opening all of those appliances. I can't think of another reason why the two appliances couldn't live happily side by side. I think it's worth moving the fridge if you can…..your family will be accessing the fridge likely from the family room and so will have to walk through the whole kitchen (past whoever is trying to work in the kitchen) to get to it. You will need to consider code requirements which, where I live, is a minimum of 18" each side of the range. I would look for a minimum of 36" for the kitchen/dining room opening. Good luck, I cannot imagine having to make all of these decisions on paper for one room, never mind a whole house……..