It depends on what the mature size is of the maple variety you are considering. Larger growing maples will generally have a canopy spread when mature of between 25-50'. To avoid any conflict or overhang with the neighbor's trees and property, you should not plant any closer than half that spread. Eg.: a maple with a 30' canopy should be planted at least 15' away from the fence.

Two other maple varieties I was considering (based on online research) were Armstrong and Bowhall which seem to have a spread of 15 ft. Perhaps they would be a better choice. I was looking at planting about 7 ft from the fence where there were nearby trees and 3-4ft from the fence (closer to the corner) where there was not a tree on the other side. But maybe that will be too close for a maple and I should look at some other smaller tree for that spot.

Is 3-4 feet from the fence line too close for the tree to grow well

==>>> the tree will give no darn wit about the fence .... unless the tree is on the north side.. and might not get direct sun for a year or two ... but once over it.. it wont matter ...

as to the neighbors yard ... who cares.. apparently they didnt care when they planted their trees close to the fence ... and will any of you be there in 50 years.. when there might be problems... lol ... that said.. keeping a good relationship with neighbors is a very good idea ...

what is a fifth of an acre.. minus house/garage/driveway ... a couple hundred square feet??? ... one thing for sure.. dont plant a massive willow like the one that fall apart ...

how about a pic of the yard.. so we can get a fell for whats going on ...

what gal said about future potential sizes ....

do you know how to plant a tree ... and the timing requisite with that.. if you cant get it in ... in the next few weeks.. then plan on planting in fall ... preferably when the tree is dormant ... see section one at link below ...

and buying big.. mean big planting stresses ... and a smaller tree can usually get established faster .... and outgrow a larger transplant inside a few years ... especially maples ...

ken

https://sites.google.com/site/tnarboretum/Home/planting-a-tree-or-shrub

Yes, the fastigiate forms could work, although 3-4' is a bit tight initially. However, just because the tree stays narrow doesn't mean the root system will! Expect a similar wide root spread as any other large growing maple and the same sort of difficulty planting anything close to it.

Thank you for the honest opinions! I will try to get some photos uploaded.

In terms of timing, I was unable to get the old root structures completely dug out last fall and have just finished doing that. I would have preferred to plant in the fall, as I understand that's the optimal time for planting. I believe I still have some time this spring (though not more than a few weeks). I have planted trees before and will definitely check with the plant nursery employees for advice (local place, not a big box store). We live in a dry climate so I know from previous experience that the trees will need extra watering (deep, slow watering a few times per week) at least this year. I do appreciate the suggestion to consider that a smaller tree might establish more quickly.

Our yards definitely aren't large. Our neighbors to the East would love to have us plant more trees since they get direct West sun in the evenings and they loved the shade our old trees used to provide. It's a sharp corner so the second neighbor is North-West. They don't use that side of the yard much except for a soccer goal, but I know they were upset when our Western neighbors put in the Swedish Aspens due to the invasive roots. In my opinion the old cottonwood was too large for the space, even though I loved it. I am definitely trying to find something more moderately sized. No big willows or cottonwoods. I don't anticipate staying in this house for 30 years, but I would prefer to plant a tree that won't need to be ripped out by the next owner or that will be a huge headache for the neighbors.

A red maple's trunk will get to be about 3' in diameter, so if you plant something like that 3' from the fence then, full grown, it's gonna hug the fence. Worse, the roots are near or above the surface of the soil, so it would grow under the fence and push it up and out.

My advice would be to get something that would be OK in a container, but if you're looking for height and shade then maybe not.

Maybe a Japanese Flagpole Cherry, or a Flowering Plum? Both are deemed "great" narrow trees for tight areas, but I haven't worked with either myself.

The Japanese Flagpole Cherry looks like it might be a great option for the tree I was thinking of planting closer to the fence. Photos online look really beautiful. Thank you for the suggestion! I will make a note to see if I can find them locally.

Attaching photos of the area. Please excuse the mess and general ugliness. Obviously this area needs a lot of work.

At the far corner is a small Japanese maple of some kind. I did not plant it and it was damaged by honeysuckle the previous owner planted. It's doing better this year and I thought I might try to keep it. The big stone pile in the center is a pond-less water feature that I haven't refilled and started up for the season yet. There are pavers that I intend to pull up and will hopefully put a small (properly installed) paver or flagstone patio near the water feature.

Overall I hoped to create a small garden where I could sit next to the water feature and have some shade and privacy from the neighbors. I intended to start my plan with some trees and shrubs along the fence line and some low growing perennials as well.

Photo 1: View of the entire area. The right side of the photo is East and I am facing North-East. (Dog demands to be the center of attention.)

Photo 2: View facing directly North. The small stone between the large boulder and the pile of rocks is 7 feet from the fence and approximately where I hoped to plant 1 tree.

Photo 3: View facing North-East. Hoping to plant tree 2 just to the left of the pinkish hued boulder in the foreground. While I have left the aspen directly against the fence, I don't think it's long for this world and it can be removed if needed once I'm able to get some new trees in place.

Photo 4: Facing South from behind the water feature to show the other side of the area. Again, the pavers are coming out, as is the ugly stump that is drying out until I can cut it into smaller pieces so I can lift it into the waste bin. No attachment to the spikes half-dead plant either. I had hoped to plant a 3rd deciduous tree where the small closer round rock is on the right side of the photo. Sounds like a maple might be too large for that spot.

Thank you again for your input.

Overplanted

• Norway Maple (Acer platanoides)
• Flowering Pear (Pyrus calleryana)
• London Plane Tree (Platanus acerfolia)
• Japanese Zelkova (Zelkova serrata)
• Honey Locust (Gleditsia triacanthos)
• Austrian Pine (Pinus nigra)
• Littleleaf Linden (Tilia cordata)
• Flowering Cherry (Prunus serrulata)

Tree Utah - Tree Guide

I'd plant trees with smaller spreads. The problem with getting too close to the fence is that neighbors have the right to chop off your overhanging tree limbs, and you don't want to end up with a lopsided tree if that happens. I would look at upright evergreen trees that let you maintain your privacy all year around. Plant a small Japanese maple somewhere else in your yard to get the beautiful foliage.

Thank you calidesign. I had considered Columnar Norway Spruces, if I can find them.

I just discovered that I cut down a red maple early last year that was near my well. I don't remember it being ugly or anything, and the roots don't seem THAT invasive.

The trunk had 2 branches, both maybe 2" in diameter, and now it has a ton of saplings coming off of it:

I might cut these off and try to plant them in more desirable locations. If you want a few, just let me know! If you cover the shipping cost then I'd be happy to send some to you after they've rooted.

They're replacement branches coming from the stump. And not something you can stick in the ground elsewhere and have take root and grow - maples do not lend themselves to this approach.

Are you sure on that one, @Embothrium ? I have little experience with the tree, but I'd read in several places that I could cultivate it from a cutting:

https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/ornamental/trees/maple/growing-maple-trees.htm

Do study the specific method they describe - it's not cut them off and stick them directly into the ground, without roots. Which the way you wrote the preceding makes it read like that was your idea of what would work.

Not to divert from the topic, but I have a small greenhouse... I figured that I would cut them off, dip the ends in locally-grown honey (none of that sugar water crap from the grocery store), then stick them in nursery pots with potting soil and keep them in the greenhouse.

@pricklypearcactus , no worries! You can see that I have about 50 of those offshoots, and I can realistically use 5 or 6 of them... as a rule of thumb I always plant more than I can use in case there's a low survival rate, but sometimes that means that I end up with WAY more than I can use! LOL If @Embothrium is right, though, none of them might root anyway.