You get a contractor who has references to share where they did this . IMO if this is new build no big deal if a renovation I think unless you are designing for wheelchir access do a small edge on the shower to avoid all this becoming a wet room How do you plan to control the water from the shower if there is no place to put shower doors since IMO shower curtains on a open shower do not work well.

Sorry if the pictures aren't clear, but I am going to install sliding shower doors; you can see it the second photo.

This is essentially a fresh build; I had to completely tear down the old bathroom to get rid of water damage.

So how do you propse to keep the water form going under the door ? Sloping a floor that is already there is a big deal and I am just wondering why a zero entry shower thet is difficult and expensvive to do properly when just a small curb woudl do the job?

I'm sorry, I don't mean to be rude, but why does any of that matter? I'm aware that a curb would be easier to do, but that doesn't suit my needs for this project.

I'm just looking for advice on the best strategy for sloping the floor to make sure there's proper drainage, while also making sure the toilet / vanity can be installed properly.

If you do the slope starting on the toilet wall you will have to use a wall-hung toilet because you don't want to have that sloping forward. Also you will need to figure out door thresholds because they will be uneven across the width of the threshold. You don't want to create a toe stubbing area.

That whole plan is not code compliant. Each plumbing fixture requires a minimum of 15” from the center to the nearest obstacle. You need another 6” of depth.

It's possible that if the bathroom is replacing a pre-existing bathroom the size is grandfathered. Toilets used to be centered on as little as 12" here so that is still permissible if the bathroom is maintaining the same footprint.

I'm not sure which plumbing fixture you're referring to, all of them are spaced at least 15" from their centers

Where do you think I need another 6"?

Yes, actually 15" from each side wall and 15 between adds up to 45" not 60"

Each needs to be in the center 15” to both sides, without any obstruction. Meaning the fixture needs to occupy a 30” space in total. You need 60” to have a toilet and vanity side by side. Meaning you need 6” either direction if a layout is going to work.

Is’t there overlap? 15” from center of toilet to edge of vanity and 15” from center of vanity sink to edge of toilet shares space betwern the two?

That doesn't make sense to me; the center of each plumbing fixture needs to be 15" from the EDGE of the nearest obstruction, yes? so that doesn't mean that the toilet and the sink need to be 30" apart from center to center, just that each one is 15" away from it's center to the edge of the other, right?

If that's not the case, then it seems like it would be impossible to even have a toilet and vanity in this bathroom at all. I can't move the walls to make the room bigger so I have to work with the space I have. Before I tore everything out, everything was even closer together; the toilet was basically right up against the wall.

I can’t give a direct answer, but we have our linear drain approximately 6” from the shower doors, so the floor is sloped towards it on both sides. But it’s such a gentle slope that it’s nearly impossoble to notice. I dont know whether the floor outside the shower door is also sloped.

All this means I agree with hiring an experienced crew. Our contractor gave us confidence in both the plumber and the tile installer.

Agree with Mint. Recessed glass channel and capillary break. The tile just outside the shower can be sloped slightly as a back up. I have installed many of these. Never one with a sliding door. I would suggest some sort of strip across the door to kick the water away from the entrance. No reason to involve the rest of the room other than waterproofing the entire floor and a couple inches up the drywall outside the shower. Pay close attention to joist, subfloor and underlayment requirements to meet acceptable deflection. Research uncouplers to help minimize height at the doorway. Blanke & Noble are two of my preferred systems. Tile vs stone have different requirements.

Yes I think it is 60" total because it is center to edge of something. But I think you are probably grandfathered if it's less. Otherwise no one would be able to remodel old bathrooms anywhere.

Grandfathered only applies to like for like replacement. When you rip everything apart to make significant major changes, you need to meet current codes. Or apply for a variance.

I disagree when it comes it bathroom footprint. If you are compelled to enlarge for clearances in any bathroom remodel where are you supposed to get the extra inches from, the stairs? The house next door? It's not always possible to enlarge these rooms in older houses because the room is not floating in space, it is in the middle of an existing house. At least in this location, if what you say is true across the board, entire blocks of houses would be uninhabitable if they attempted to convert a bathtub to a shower.

You've already received good advice about hiring a qualified contractor for your job. That is #1. Your qualified contractor should be able to answer all your questions. Where you begin slope will depend on various factors and likely won't require entire room slope. Specifically, industry standards (and especially for a residential application): "High point of floor must be outside shower area (beyond shower door or curtain), to facilitate evacuation of shower water and splash due to curbless design." A qualified contractor will also understand industry standards related to the waterproofing membrane which should continue outside of shower floor area one foot beyond high point of tiled floor. Start with hiring a contractor with verifiable experience. If they can't answer your questions with standards based methods, you haven't found the right contractor. Curbless showers are very popular and being done regularly in many areas of the country where qualified contractors can be found.

I am in the middle of doing the same project I feel your pain (after reading some of the responses). I’m also doing the work myself. The predominant method is to start the slope underneath the break of the door, however I would also like to have mine slope a few inches into the room to avoid any standing water that comes under the door. Avoid starting the slope more than 3 inches outside the shower. It is enough to eliminate standing water but won’t drastically affect gaps at doorways and walls. I know this response is late but let me know what you did on yours and how it worked out.

- V