I'd hate it. If I had to live there I'd probably end up rigging up a cheap sink in the shower like people who buy RVs with that setup do.

Sink should be in the bathroom.

Use toilet...use sink.

Architect must be a man.

I can't say I'm digging any of the layout, not just the split bathroom, but the entirety.

Not a good plan to separate those two bathroom components. Especially since the toilet part is on the side with the living area/kitchen. Can't the shower/toilet/sink start in that order on the bedroom side?

I've seen the sink separation happen in motels and in older 60's homes so it not that crazy. The location of the shower/toilet is because of the proximity to a waste line in the wall there. The kitchen is clustered around a second waste line. I'm trying to limit the cutting of the slab. The longest run will be to the toilet at about 4 feet of cutting.

I think you should try to do better than a motel. :)

I bet if you had a scale drawing with your plumbing penciled in that you'd get some better ideas.

I love most of the layout, I think it's kinda genius to square the room like that. It's down to having a small sink inside a small bathroom or a big sprawling sink outside the small bathroom. But, I could move the toilet further back to where the sink is now and have room for a smaller sink in the bathroom... it's just not as efficient with space and storage.

On second thought... maybe it's not so bad. Better? The vanity would have to be custom to keep it square to the room.

IMO toilet rooms are just plain silly and if you are trying to get the idea from Europe then the toilet room needs s ink so not point in this layout and BTW even if one person lives there they might have an overnight friend . IMo we need meaurements and a to scale floor plan and a toiulet next to a entertaining space is always a bad idea.

I would not like that. Also, would not enjoy view of kitchen from the seating area. But I admit that the architect probably has restrictions on what can be done within budget and within footprint. I like OP's revision except that it looks like there may not be enough clear space in front of toilet and sink. Might need to push wall forward a foot.

Is one side entirely glass?

I like the new plan! I can't tell if there are suitable clearances in the bathroom but if there are, I do think it's an improvement. Might have to slide the bathroom/closet wall over a bit to line up with the bedroom floater wall for more elbow room in the bath. (Vanity doesn't have to be custom--just the countertop.)

Does this have to meet code?

I don't mind the other areas at all--is the bottom all window and that's why nothing is there?

Hi Paul, what if you swap the location of the vanity and the shower? You get a powder room accessible from the living area and a shower/dressing room accessible from the bedroom, with minimal movement of plumbing pipes. This type of layout is pretty common in Japan so that multiple people can use the bathroom area at the same time. While this is not your goal, I don't think it is a bad idea especially if you like everything else. 

Regarding everything else, I do have a question: do you plan to put a TV?

OK, I objected to the last layout and got this back from the architect. What do you think? The second door on the left will be in the closet but is strictly for fire safety and will be rarely used.

Much better bedroom/bath layout. Also entering the ADU into a more open feeling, instead of a tight 'hallway.'

- Don't think the refrigerator island is successful (also think about what you see through the window from outside), unless you use that to make a galley kitchen for a tv wall, but then the bedroom needs to shrink and living get bigger, so maybe tuck the ref up against the sink wall.

- Still think you need to address living layout for a tv, so moving ref allows you to flip the seating area and have a tv (i.e. gaming) wall.

- Are any of the overhead garage doors becoming operable man doors or just windows? If doors (french, slider, bifold?), is outdoor access from Kitchen or Living, and is there clearance? And if the 2nd door tucked in the closet is for sleeping room emerg&escape because of a fixed window, I believe it needs to be in the footprint of the room.

It's better, right? There will be 3 insulated glass garage doors... the two lower panels are frosted and the top row are clear. I'm not sure about the frig there either, it's probably better along the wall. I'm having a console like cabinet made with a TV lift that swivels in it... might be able to place against the garage door or may just use a Samsung tripod TV in that spot.

Ok, info slowly trickly in . . . . first things first.

So if the OverHead garage doors will remain operable (otherwise why would you spend a ton on glass paneled doors if you could spend a different fortune on glass bifolds or something) and your walls are skewed, then your OH doors will look something like the RED lines when opened. If so, a few things:

- Your bedroom door in BLUE is for emergency escape & egress, so it needs to be within the sleeping room, not through a closet.

- Your bed wall will be cantilevered (only attachment at it's base) as it cannot attach to the ceiling, and any track hardware and it's purlins will be interfering with the wall. If so, it would need some sort of built in at the bottom to stabilize it, like a built-in bed or entertainment center (thus widening the footprint of the wall).

- I cannot picture anything but a chair (which has a clean finished upholstered backside) against the OH garage doors. TVs have cords and are not exactly pretty on the back, you can see through the OH garage door glass or when they are open.

- Think about privacy at least for the bedroom depending on how high the opaque panels are. I cannot think of a way for window coverings on an operable OH garage door.

- Think about the existing floor. If the OH garage doors remain operable, it probably means there is no change in floor (like a subfloor or built platform). Most often, garages are built with floors that either slope towards the OH door opening or to an interior drain. Would that be acceptable to live in.

- I don't know your location, like if this is England, but my assumptions on things are for the U.S.

You want details, I got details. I'm restoring my house after a fire. The 3 car garage is gutted right now. Because of recent changes to city code I will be able to convert my garage to an ADU without having to replace the lost parking. However, I'm not quite ready to do that. As I'm putting the garage back together I'm putting in the infrastructure, windows, sound proofing, plumbing stub outs, electrical outlet and lighting locations in their appropriate locations according to the plan above. I've already put in heating and cooling.

Since I'm not going full on ADU right now, I will use insulated garage doors and use the space mostly for an exercise area, VR gaming and sometimes a car. The 2 right garage doors will be tweaked to open straight in and high and tight to the 10 foot ceiling. I'm investigating having them retract up into a lowered ceiling. The left door is one that is blocked by a beam so will be below it at about 8 feet. At least on side of the bedroom divider wall will have to be anchored to the big beam above it to keep it stable OR when I cut the slab I drop in a steel post or two.

Because the garage doors open to an alley I personally wouldn't want a TV within grabbing range of the people passing by. I came up with the idea of a sliding wooden slatted gate that can be moved either in front of the side parking spot or it can be slid over to cover the open right side door. That way a tenant can utilize the parking space however they want, either for a car or as a spot for outdoor entertaining with the gate enclosing the space. With it moved over to cover an open garage door, the open slats over the door will provide at least some privacy and safety if it locks in place. Gate is red, track is black.

Yes, I've got to figure out a way to cover the top garage door panel... although there is nothing to look at out there I hate to give up the clear glass with a film. The two opaque panels are about 4.5 feet... and the third upper is clear. One interesting thing that can be done with the door is that the panels can be uncoupled so when the door is opened only the top panel lifts, leaving the bottom 2 in place.

The deflection in the floor is an issue. I've got to have a lot of cement work done and haven't gotten a big to repour the slab but will. The other option is just to used wood to wedge the floor tight to the doors to lose the 3.5 inch slope. The slab needs some major cutting for all the plumbing so it's not so crazy that I could replace the slab.

If the inspector has a problem with the door in the closet then removing the door to the closet should solve it. Anyway, 5 opening doors even without power should be sufficient.

Your architect really should be leading you on some things. The emergency escape & rescue is required by code, garage doors don't count. Things like skewing the OH doors straight may make it difficult to pull in from the alley. Not sure why you can't just skew the bed wall to align between doors, then it can go to ceiling. Move the kitchen to cluster plumbing closer together, flip the seating to utilitze the bed wall for tv. Can even lose the dining table and flip the couch to use that wall for tv. All of it can be built and still allows use of 2 right bays for car until future because it's just furniture to move. Something like this: