It does look like sunburn or chill injury. They can look very similar, but it shouldn't be too difficult for you to figure out which is the more likely based on your recent history with the plant.

Al

how far was it from the window before you moved it.. what direction did that window face ... did direct sun light hit the plant ...

i see a tray .... so i presume the pot drains .. yes???

you arent going to 'save' the leaves .. or make them look better by watering excessively .... so just water it properly ...

i cant tell from these pix.. but are leaves under the topmost leaves affected?? ... or were under leaves protected by the upper leaves .. if you get my drift ... if under leaves are also browning.. it may be a watering issue ... as in.. you are rotting off the roots ... the under leaves would have been shielded by the leaves above ...

i might be tempted to tip it out of the pot.. and LOOK AT THE ROOTS ... maybe snap a pic.. and just shove it back in the pot ...

ken

I just took it out of the pot. The roots are firm. I did repot it in the fall and it didn’t look like the roots spread much at all into the pot. I have noticed it takes a while to dry out but the plant doesn’t look droopy, just lots of brown spots on the leaves.The inner leaves seem mostly green which is what made me think it was sunburn. I just don’t understand why that would be because it has been in the same place for almost a year. It was about a foot away from an east facing window and it wasn’t freezing there. My guess is maybe the sunlight is stronger than it has been coming through the window since it is spring and the trees outside don’t have leaves yet to shelter it. I moved it about 6 ft away from the window but the room is still pretty bright. I also fertilized it a few weeks ago

but it was after a couple of the leaves were already brown. It was very watered down and I haven’t fertilized it before that since last summer.

Roots look ok. Your plant would MUCH rather be repotted in June (if you live in the N Hemisphere) than in the fall. "It takes a while" is too vague to help us decide how appropriate the grow medium is/isn't.

I suggest you start using a "tell" to "tell" you when it's time to water. See "Tell" below.

The all-important question is 'what to do to save it'. The answer to that, though broad, is, examine the cultural influences under which the plant grows. At least one, maybe more are asking the plant to deal with conditions it's not genetically programmed to deal with.

This Overview should help you decide what needs tweaking.

Using a 'tell'

Over-watering saps vitality and is one of the most common plant assassins, so learning to avoid it is worth the small effort. Plants make and store their own energy source – photosynthate - (sugar/glucose). Functioning roots need energy to drive their metabolic processes, and in order to get it, they use oxygen to burn (oxidize) their food. From this, we can see that terrestrial plants need plenty of air (oxygen) in the soil to drive root function. Many off-the-shelf soils hold too much water and not enough air to support the kind of root health most growers would like to see; and, a healthy root system is a prerequisite to a healthy plant.

Watering in small sips leads to avoid over-watering leads to a residual build-up of dissolved solids (salts) in the soil from tapwater and fertilizer solutions, which limits a plant's ability to absorb water – so watering in sips simply moves us to the other horn of a dilemma. It creates another problem that requires resolution. Better, would be to simply adopt a soil that drains well enough to allow watering to beyond the saturation point, so we're flushing the soil of accumulating dissolved solids whenever we water; this, w/o the plant being forced to pay a tax in the form of reduced vitality, due to prolong periods of soil saturation. Sometimes, though, that's not a course we can immediately steer, which makes controlling how often we water a very important factor.

In many cases, we can judge whether or not a planting needs watering by hefting the pot. This is especially true if the pot is made from light material, like plastic, but doesn't work (as) well when the pot is made from heavier material, like clay, or when the size/weight of the pot precludes grabbing it with one hand to judge its weight and gauge the need for water.

Fingers stuck an inch or two into the soil work ok for shallow pots, but not for deep pots. Deep pots might have 3 or more inches of soil that feels totally dry, while the lower several inches of the soil is 100% saturated. Obviously, the lack of oxygen in the root zone situation can wreak havoc with root health and cause the loss of a very notable measure of your plant's potential. Inexpensive watering meters don't even measure moisture levels, they measure electrical conductivity. Clean the tip and insert it into a cup of distilled water and witness the fact it reads 'DRY'.

One of the most reliable methods of checking a planting's need for water is using a 'tell'. You can use a bamboo skewer in a pinch, but a wooden dowel rod of about 5/16” (75-85mm) would work better. They usually come 48” (120cm) long and can usually be cut in half and serve as a pair. Sharpen all 4 ends in a pencil sharpener and slightly blunt the tip so it's about the diameter of the head on a straight pin. Push the wooden tell deep into the soil. Don't worry, it won't harm the root system. If the plant is quite root-bound, you might need to try several places until you find one where you can push it all the way to the pot's bottom. Leave it a few seconds, then withdraw it and inspect the tip for moisture. For most plantings, withhold water until the tell comes out dry or nearly so. If you see signs of wilting, adjust the interval between waterings so drought stress isn't a recurring issue.

Al