Range: My friend has the Thermador & loves it. I just ordered the BlueStar. I too, have 5 kids, but I actually think cleaning it is easier with the open burner. I had a Wolf & loved it, but cleaning it was not so easy

The ovens- I had KitchenAid & am installing Kitchen Aid again. A true workhorse.

I went with the BlueStar Refrigerator. 36 inch. I love that you can put a pizza box in it and it’s counter depth

Hood: Because of my kitchen design, I could no longer go with under the cabinet. So now I’m looking at custom hoods.

Congratulations. This is exciting

P.S. I had the Electrolux Column. They worked well. The trim kit was absolutely worth it.

I too, wanted a steam oven. I was going to put it in the island, but the Miele ones are going through a change & my salesperson wouldn’t sell me anything but a Miele . So I nixed it for now, and maybe put it in my pantry at a later date. Having 2 dishwashers is a gift. I have gotten so spoiled with 2, so worth it with all the kiddos.

Is the living room on the right side of the foyer? Do you have to go through the kitchen to get to the powder room? What is on the right side of the kitchen beside the dining room and the mud room?

I only have advice on ovens--not as an expert, but as another remodeler who did a lot of research in summer of 2021. First, don't buy a double wall oven. Buy two separate wall ovens and stack them. That way you don't lose both ovens when one malfunctions. Also, you can take one out when you are ready to upgrade to a steam oven. Ovens, at the end of the day, are boxes of hot air and a cheap oven is at least 90% as good as an expensive one. So go down the price chain until you hit a model where you can afford two separate ovens. As long as it's not a Samsung, you'll be fine.

For actual brand, check out Bosch Benchmark for a sideswing door model. If sideswing isn't too important, look at Miele PureLine. The saleswoman claimed you can safely use self-clean mode with Miele, and she wouldn't say the same for any other brand. They charge for every. single. upgrade, including telescoping racks. When I priced it out, getting a lower-end PureLine and paying for extra racks was still a decent price, compared to the Miele M-Touch or the Wolf ovens. Not sure if that's the case now though. It looks like prices have jumped enormously in the last 8 months.

If you want absolute ease of cooktop cleanup nothing beats induction. A paper towel and spritz of cleaner- you're done. Nothing beats it for safety with kids. Nothing beats it for responsiveness. Power is exceptional. You get the benefits of no waste heat for your area or open flame biproducts. That lets you spec less ventilation and makeup air.

There is a tvroom to the right of the diningroom that bumps off back of house. Thought the auxiliary/ back kitchen is the living room and sunroom. Traditional colonial with this reno we are repurposing the existing dr to orient the kitchen front to back and turning our sm fam room into a larger DR to accommodate our large fam.

I would rather see the oven closer to the action in the kitchen, even if just inside the pantry; the freezer is OK in the pantry area since freezers are not accessed often. It looks as if the gray walls are being added, so could you extend the range wall to include the fridge? If traffic is coming through the pantry area to the kitchen, the fridge would be convenient to grazers, and turning the MW would cause less congestion in the prep/cooking aisle. That also solves the fridge-against-the-wall issue.

Since the 'baking' area shares a wall with the PR, I drew a small corner sink, for hand washing. If you use a stand mixer it could be stored on that counter, and the stretch of counter to the right of the clean-up sink could hold loaded cooky sheets, ready to go in the oven.

I think the DW's should flank the clean-up sink. Someday the old DW will need to be replaced, so it should be placed in the optimum location now.

The entry to the pantry (by the stairs) is left open--if you bring in groceries from the side entry, they can be taken through that entrance rather than through the work aisle of the kitchen.

Hood: Hood specs need to include front-to-back depth, which ideally overlaps the cooktop by as much as the sides (3-inches in your case). Hood inserts for wood cabinetry tend to be on the small side to fit with cabinet sizes, so I would recommend a "naked" stand-alone metal hood. These can, of course, be as fancy as one wants to pay for, but solid quality stainless steel should be sufficient. (300 series stainless steel (non-magnetic) will be preferable to 400 series (magnetic) due to better stain and corrosion resistance. However, the cost is higher due to the greater difficulty of fabrication and higher cost of the steel.)

The issue with the vast array of hoods available is that one generally doesn't get more than one pays for, but can get a lot less. So review of threads here may help. Also, starting threads asking about specific makes and models may scare up satisfied (or not) owners. First, though, is to do the necessary searches.

Duct: You may want to plan to have a silencer (e.g., Fantech) in the duct path between the hood and the the blower. This will reduce noise. The 10-inch size (LD-10) is 14 inches in diameter, hence the need for planning.

MUA: I didn't see anything listed w.r.t. to make-up air. It is necessary. How complex of a system it needs to be depends on your combustion appliances, or lack thereof, and where you live.

Dishwasher: The dishwasher cavity should be made for American sizes (24 inches wide) and have a removable filler strip for one side to fit 60-cm European dishwashers. Then one has the widest scope of future options. The cavity also has to be deep enough for the variety of DWs available. This may require a deeper than standard counter. The filler strip needs to be about 1-cm/0.375-in thick, finished on the outside, and several inches front to back to accept the Euro DW mounting screws. The filler strip will be fastened to an adjacent cabinet wall, flush with the cabinet frame, choosing whichever side provides the best look.

Agree with an above comment that the DW should be adjacent to the main sink base cabinet. Also, dish storage should be close.

Thank you all!

Mama Goose - Appreciate the marked up designs and the new configuration, I do agree with some suggestions, but don't plan to delete the walk in pantry. The fridge in the location you suggested feels to me like it would really crowd the cooking area.

I had desired the two DWs to flank the main clean up sink (I know that is the recommendation here on houzz) but I do not have those inches and I am working tirelessly to work with the existing window and sink placement as a budget consideration (and b/c I like the focal point at that end of the room)

While the baking area you suggested is nice, I feel this unnecessarily extends the longer feel of the kitchen and I would like to have a main space and a back space. Thanks for your time!

Ovens

After some more research today, I strongly leaning towards the Bosch Side Swing Ovens. They get great reviews and are half the price of the Thermador Side Swings. Why aren't all ovens, side swing?! This makes so much ergonomic safe sense! I considered briefly the swing away doors as featured in British Bake Off but, eh, I'll stick with Bosch as Ness is a Bosch affiliate it seems. I feel good about the Bosch and will head out to my local appliance store to take a look!

Hood:

I really need more help with this. I do not like the look of the stainless, but functionally I can understand why these are preferred.

I was looking at this one: https://www.thermador.com/us/products-list/ventilation/ventilation-pairing-ranges-36/PH42GWS

But it's pricey at 2600 with the blower being an additional 800 I think.

Does anyone have experience with this Zephyr Vent? What blower would I pair it with and should I get a noise reducer such as FanTech?

kaseki- Please educate me more on MUA and what that entails? We are outside of Boston in a well built colonial home. Need to understand more about this. Also please explain more clearly what you meant by this: The 10-inch size (LD-10) is 14 inches in diameter. How can 10" be 14" in diameter? What am I missing? :) Also I have just 10.5 in space between ceiling joists that this will have to run in. Interior wall to back of house.

Thank you all!!

Kaseki your thoughts on this with a cabinet above https://www.thermador.com/us/products-list/ventilation/ventilation-pairing-ranges-36/PH42GWS

I don't see anything objectionable from a quick look. It seems deep enough. I wasn't able to quickly find the width, so I assume you determined that it overlapped. It does say 36 and 42 in the model number, so maybe those are indicative. There is the question of why it lists 2000W as the power draw. That seems unlikely. Inspection at your friendly appliance distributor would be advised.

Of course, I can only recommend a hood I've owned, and the only relevant one is my Wolf, inapplicable to your case.

In any case, the duct goes up. Either you cover it with a duct cover or put a cabinet around it. I won't guess which is more aesthetic in your configuration.

The Fantech LD-10 attaches to 10-inch ducting (there are some clamps for this that they sell). It is 14 inches in diameter. Think automotive muffler -- the diameter is larger than the exhaust pipe and tail pipe.

When running in joists one has two options if there is a powerful blower outside. (1) use an internal rectangular duct silencer. I can't help with this, but did see a manufacturer of these once during an on-line search. (2) get the duct outside and go up the side of the house in a chase in which the silencer in embedded. Put the blower at the top.

MUA is a big topic, and I'd rather suggest solutions once you have read up on related threads here. In addition, let me introduce you to @opaone's treatise on his process of selecting a quasi-commercial solution to his requirements. There is some there on MUA. https://bamasotan.us/range-exhaust-hood-faq/ Also, Fantech has a blurb: E1574 Makeup Air System.pdf. See:

https://www.fantech.net/fileadmin/user_upload/fantech/Support/Media_Center_USA_Files/e1574-makeup-air-system.pdf.

Let the education begin! Thank you!!

A few quick thoughts...

Having both a gas oven and electric oven provides a lot more versatility. Gas is a moist environment, electric is dry. SO, I'd recommend a gas range and then an electric wall oven.

I'd recommend the BS RNB range, not Platinum.

If you can swing it for $'s I'd also do a CSO. Or maybe a CSO in place of your wall oven if you don't bake cakes or other stuff that needs a dry electric oven.

YES to window and natural light in pantry.

Good stuff from @kaseki. More on ventilation in the link below.

More: https://bamasotan.us/2020/12/the-kitchen/

After researching more, I think I would be overpaying for the Thermador hood so, I'm strongly considering this one:

Vent-A-Hood 900 CFM 42" Wall Mounted Range Hood with LED Lights Featuring Dual Blowers from the Professional Collection

Model:PRXH18-342 WH

The CFM equivalent is 1350, I plan to put a cabinet above it, so I don't think I need the duct cover? I like the white color. A compromise for not doing the wood cabinet, but stainless.

I am overwhelmed with all I do not know, what else must I purchase for this vent to work?

This is the path from the range out of the house. Does the make up air travel a different path? Perhaps to the front of the house? I appreciate the continued advice.

Thanks!

I ordered an entire suite of thermador appliances, masterpiece collection. It included the steam oven double oven (8 mos),Induction cooktop (13 mos),built in coffee maker (13 mos), intergrated refrigerator/freezer columns, just installed last week (around 14 mos), and dishwasher (no delivery time). Ordered everything last Feb so we had plenty of time according to the salesman, apparently not. Im only relaying this to you so you have a realistic timeline. I dont blame my salesman for the huge delay, I do have a problem with Thermador not being totally transparent with their delays. They post covid delays about 8 months. Then when the appliances are shipped, they have no way of tracking (you can track an envelope fron china, but not a huge appliance).We had a column dissappear during shipment in January (im sure it was diverted to someone who was complaining) salesman had no explanation. Having said that, they are just beautiful and a pleasure to use. The columns are panel ready and beautifully intergrate into my kitchen. We did have a cooling problem with the freezer but service was quickly sent and the problem seems to be resolved.

"The CFM equivalent is 1350,"

That is marketing plop, not reality. I would avoid VAH products, particularly Magic Lung. Great marketing, bad engineering.

More: https://bamasotan.us/range-exhaust-hood-faq/

bostonmamatofive, you seem to have moved on from the layout, but I would rather belabor this point than see you make a mistake that requires you to re-order cabinets (or worse--not be able to open the fridge door without hitting the wall). In the close-up you posted yesterday, you still show the fridge right up against the stub wall, which appears to be deeper than the fridge door will be when it's open. Have you checked the specs for your fridge, to ascertain the amount of space you need to the right, to open the fridge door far enough to pull out the crispers? Will the door handle hit the wall before you reach that point, and will there be space for the user's hand, before it hits the wall?

If you've already found this not to be an issue, I'd rather be 'safe than sorry'--you can find many threads on this site, where surprised homeowners are asking for help to figure out how to fully open their fridge/freezer doors against a perpendicular wall.

This is my crude attempt to illustrate the potential problem; in each plan, the dark line is the door, and the narrow rectangle represents the shelves on the door. The red rectangle is the open crisper:

Thank you mama goose! In my real layout from the kd I have a 4.5” filler on the right. Please let me know if you think this adequate. I appreciate your time and consideration!

I looked on the specs and installation guide in the link you provided in the OP, but I couldn't find anything, other than the guide shows the fridge installed between cabinets, not against a wall, and one pic shows the minimum width needed for the trim kit. (Doesn't mean the info is not there--I just couldn't find it.) In the 'gallery' many of the pics show the door open beyond 90°. You might have your KD double check the filler needed, to make sure the crispers can be removed for cleaning. Maybe a pro KD on this site will be familiar with that model and will comment, or will know where to find the info.

Looking for some more design feedback

My island is currently spec'd for 120" x 42" (a 17" overhang) with 8 counter top support brackets.

If I can trim back the wall a little more (we are doing a steel beam anyway so I may have flexibility), where the blue square is and enlarge the island to 120" X 48" , do you think it is more beneficial to add in 12" deep cabinetry to the back side of the island instead of all these support brackets? This would mean I would have a 24" cabs facing the range wall, 12" cabs on the back side of the island and just a 12" overhang. It is open behind the island then the dining room. Is this too tight? Too small an overhang? I realize countertop support brackets are more inexpensive than cabinets, but I do have a little wiggle room in the budget.

Thank you!!

I wouldn't do cabinets on the seating side unless you really need the storage.

1. It's never going to be fun to pull out stools to access those cabinets.

2. 12" overhang will be much less comfortable seating than a 17" overhang.

I have cabinets on the seating side. I have a quite large kitchen and i

I didnt ”need” extra space It would be crazy not to utilize all of the space that you can squeeze from your kitchen. You wouldnt use them to store everyday stuff. I have christmas china, i have a cabinet for games, and one for small appliances that i use infrequently. I did use fingerpulls on them so that you dont bash your knees against a pull. It just looks like a paneled island.