We planted these a few weeks ago and had no yellowing of the pine needles when we planted them. Now this is happening to several, if not all, of the mugo pine trees we planted. Thoughts? Overwatering? Pine beetles?! Help!
How about some clues? Where are you located, how were they planted, how did you care for them, is there landscape fabric under those stones?
We are in Sedalia, Colorado (zone 5). . My husband mixed new planting mix in with the Mix the plant came in from the nursery. The trees have 2 drippers each twice a day for 5-7 minutes. We have another one that is doing the same thing (yellowing from the inside out) which does not have a dripper. There is landscaping fabric under the stones, but not under the trees. What other clues can I provide?! TIA for your help!!!
Our First House!
Our water holding backyard
Should we remove the evergreen tree?
What’s wrong with my pine trees?
They are dried out. 5-7 minutes a day on a drip is not sufficient water, even 2 times a day. Not in full sun and in an intense sunlight climate like CO. It's barely tickling the soil surface. A single deep watering with a hose every second to third day or when the soil tests dry at the rootball is more in order.
It is helpful to remember that a little bit of water everyday is not going to produce the same results with healthy plant establishment and growth as a single a deep soaking once or twice a week.
water by hand.. until YOU LEARN how to water thru the entire root mass planted .. and then let near dry before deeply watering again.. this is why trees on drip doesnt work at transplanting ...
next time.. do not amend the planting hole ... review this primer to see if there are other thing to do.. or not do..
ALL evergreen plants lose their leaves/needles ..... its annual and cyclical ... pines do it every year .. the oldest interior leaves.. part of what you are seeing is that process ... note it is NOT new growth .. its last years.. or the previous years needles ... this is increased because of the shipping to your house... then the transplanting.. and then wildly increased by lack of sufficient water .. [how did you come up with 5 to 7 mins?? .. in my sand.. to water down 12 inches.. might take a couple hours ... and that is why i watered by hand.. and not my drip system.. even if the trees were in a bed with flower plants]
the future is all in those buds .. the plant could basically denude itself.. and still survive.. if those buds open ...
as long as the buds dont go floppy.. they should expand and you should be on your way..
for now.. take a hand trowel.. and dig a few 6 to 8 inch holes around the gob planted.. AND FIND OUT IF THERE IS ANY WATER AT ROOT DEPTH... and then act accordingly ...
I would also think about replacing the rocks with mulch. Those rocks heat up during the summer.
@melanieweitzenfeld I will second some of these suggestiions here. I am in the Denver Metro area so similar weather. Replace the rocks with mulch and change your watering. It does not appear as if you have any type of well built up around the tree as well to keep water contained. I'd move your rocks, build a (dirt) well around the perimeter of the outer edges of the tree and mulch. The well should be 2-4" tall to keep water inside. Deeply water every couple of days. I timed out how long it takes to fill a 5 gallon bucket from muy hose and then run the hose for that amount of time. It will fill the well and allow the water to seep into the ground. Don't wait to do this. The longer you wait the less likely it is to survive.
We have 2 Tennenbaum's we planted in early May and they have been doing well. New growth has been comign in over hte last several weeks and they are currently about 4-5' tall.