i dont get the vote thing...

if you want to grow houseplants.. how about you move yourself out of the window.. and put your plants in the window ...

probably a good chance its lacking proper light... and it took 2.5 months to show the result of said lack of an essential cultural variable ...

i hope that light is on just for the pic.. its a good indicator how dark that corner must be .... and im sure that isnt a proper way to use supplemental lighting for plants .... they need to be the right bulb.. but also.. pointed at the plant.. not the ceiling ...

ken

From the information provided, while indeed plenteous, it can't be determined which of several potential cultural conditions are causing the leaf loss, but I can put you on the right track and provide the tools required to turn the plant around.

It's likely the underlying cause of the shedding is A) a reduction in light levels from what it was used to at the greenhouse or its point of sale to what it is currently receiving, B) over-watering, which includes conditions that cause a large fraction of the soil remaining saturated for extended periods of time, C) under-watering. Other factors that commonly cause leaf shedding are root congestion and low fertility levels, and other less common cultural influences like a phytotoxic reaction to chemicals like household cleaning products used on the plant, herbicides, insecticides, and miticides. While one or more of A, B, and C are the more likely cause, the others can't be discounted just because you have provided no information to cause them to become suspects.

A) - A decrease in photo load (light) reduces the flow of a growth regulator (auxin) across a zone (abscission zone) located where the leaf stem attaches to the branch/trunk. A certain amount of auxin is REQUIRED to prevent an abscission layer from forming in the abscission zone. The abscission layer eventually isolates the leaf from the rest of the plant, so none of the food the leaf creates (during photosynthesis) can escape the leaf and no water/nutrients in the plant's nutrient stream can make its way into the leaf. When the abscission layer is entire, the leaf falls off under it's own weight. To resolve the issue, give the plant as much light as it will tolerate, but condition the plant to the heavier photo load over a period of about 2 weeks. Do this by increasing intervals of exposure to full sun, or by gradually moving the plant closer and closer to a full sun position. BTW - your plant should show wild appreciation if you were to reward it with a summer vacation outdoors where it gets morning and late day sun or a mixture of sun and shade.

B & C) - Over and under-watering both cause a drought response. Under-watering, because it ensures a dearth of moisture which causes the plant to shed its leaves in order to conserve what moisture is available or in the plant, over-watering because the lack of oxygen in soggy soils limits the roots ability to move water efficiently the the plant's most distal parts, leaf tips and margins, which are usually the first of the plant's parts to bear witness that those parts are not being adequately hydrated. Both of these conditions also cause the shedding through diminishment of the amount of the growth regulator I described, across the abscission zone.

The fix for both under and over-watering is to water correctly and at appropriate intervals. The piece below, about using a "tell" to tell you when it's time to water describes how to water and monitor moisture needs. This is a key element of the care regimen because over/ under-watering kills fine roots which send chemical signals to plant central, ordering the plant to stop top growth until enough fine roots have been regenerated to support new growth. This cyclic death and regeneration of roots can rob your plant of a tremendous amount of potential in terms of growth rate, vitality levels (health), it's ability to defend itself against insect predation and disease pathogens, and eye appeal.

Additionally, an appropriate grow medium and nutritional supplementation is essential to your ability to provide as much opportunity as possible when it comes to your plant's ability to realize/maximize its genetic potential. Foliage-Pro 9-3-6 fertilizer is probably the best product out there, and I would caution you against "investing" in products said to be formulated for fiddle leaf figs. All I have seen, and several other 'houseplant fertilizers' are complete scams.

These links contain helpful information that can save you from unnecessary frustration:

Overview of Good Growing Practices

Ficus Trees in Containers

Using a 'tell'

Over-watering saps vitality and is one of the most common plant assassins, so learning to avoid it is worth the small effort. Plants make and store their own energy source – photosynthate - (sugar/glucose). Functioning roots need energy to drive their metabolic processes, and in order to get it, they use oxygen to burn (oxidize) their food. From this, we can see that terrestrial plants need plenty of air (oxygen) in the soil to drive root function. Many off-the-shelf soils hold too much water and not enough air to support the kind of root health most growers would like to see; and, a healthy root system is a prerequisite to a healthy plant.

Watering in small sips leads to avoid over-watering leads to a residual build-up of dissolved solids (salts) in the soil from tapwater and fertilizer solutions, which limits a plant's ability to absorb water – so watering in sips simply moves us to the other horn of a dilemma. It creates another problem that requires resolution. Better, would be to simply adopt a soil that drains well enough to allow watering to beyond the saturation point, so we're flushing the soil of accumulating dissolved solids whenever we water; this, w/o the plant being forced to pay a tax in the form of reduced vitality, due to prolong periods of soil saturation. Sometimes, though, that's not a course we can immediately steer, which makes controlling how often we water a very important factor.

In many cases, we can judge whether or not a planting needs watering by hefting the pot. This is especially true if the pot is made from light material, like plastic, but doesn't work (as) well when the pot is made from heavier material, like clay, or when the size/weight of the pot precludes grabbing it with one hand to judge its weight and gauge the need for water.

Fingers stuck an inch or two into the soil work ok for shallow pots, but not for deep pots. Deep pots might have 3 or more inches of soil that feels totally dry, while the lower several inches of the soil is 100% saturated. Obviously, the lack of oxygen in the root zone situation can wreak havoc with root health and cause the loss of a very notable measure of your plant's potential. Inexpensive watering meters don't even measure moisture levels, they measure electrical conductivity. Clean the tip and insert it into a cup of distilled water and witness the fact it reads 'DRY'.

One of the most reliable methods of checking a planting's need for water is using a 'tell'. You can use a bamboo skewer in a pinch, but a wooden dowel rod of about 5/16” (75-85mm) would work better. They usually come 48” (120cm) long and can usually be cut in half and serve as a pair. Sharpen all 4 ends in a pencil sharpener and slightly blunt the tip so it's about the diameter of the head on a straight pin. Push the wooden tell deep into the soil. Don't worry, it won't harm the root system. If the plant is quite root-bound, you might need to try several places until you find one where you can push it all the way to the pot's bottom. Leave it a few seconds, then withdraw it and inspect the tip for moisture. For most plantings, withhold water until the tell comes out dry or nearly so. If you see signs of wilting, adjust the interval between waterings so drought stress isn't a recurring issue.

Let me know if you have questions you think I can answer.

Al