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Do red oak floors require a sealer under water based finish?

3 years ago

Flooring contractor said he doesnt use bona seals and could do just 3 coats of bona traffic hd or 2 coats of loba 2k.


does red oak not need to be sealed or should i look into a bona certified contractor to complete the project and use seal plus finish ?

Comments (16)

  • PRO
    3 years ago

    Red oak does not need to be sealed. It's tannins do not react as fast as white oak. You do want to use a sealer to prevent side bonding and panelization. Water base polyurethanes will glue the joints together. You probably think it is a good thing - no gaps. What will happen is your weakest joint will open up when the flooring shrinks.. You can have up to a 1/2" gap in one joint, compared to having hairline gaps in several places. If, you prefer the 1/2" gap every 2-3 ft' , you can avoid using a seal coat.


    Your contractor's main concern as to why he/she does not want to use a seal coat is discoloration. The contractor most likely had too many experiences of sanding through a seal coat or missed coating spots. Seal coats blocks tannins, whereas polyurethane coats will pull more tannins. Missed spots and sand throughs will show up as discoloration.


    You can search for a Bona certfied finisher or a NWFA sand and finish guy. NWFA members will work also.

  • 3 years ago

    If using loba 2k Supra AT what sealer is usually recommended?

  • 3 years ago

    Another question-I’ve had nothing but issues with my current contractor. They put the stain down Thursday and I looked yesterday and it doesn’t look anything like the sample. I hate it. I also noticed they didn’t completely sand out a sample and there’s a dark spot on the floor now.

    So now I’m just thinking of going natural to avoid another stain nightmare.
    If he will use a Loba sealer under the Loba water based finish I may continue with him. Does the 2 coats of Loba 2k Supra add a little depth/darkness to the floor? I don’t want unfinished floors I’m just at a loss where to go from here.

    If I do not continue with my current contractor can my floors be sanded down and left raw until I am able to hire someone else to come in and finish them, which will probably be a few months? Or will this ruin them?

  • PRO
    3 years ago

    if you have lost your trust in your contractor. stop the project and find someone else.


    easy prime is the recommended sealer for loba polyurethanes.

  • 3 years ago

    @G&Sfloors Do you think the bona seals make enough difference to find a bona certified contractor or will Loba prime and finish look good on red oak?

  • PRO
    3 years ago

    No, you do not need a certified installer.

  • 3 years ago

    Do you find just the Loba prime and finish looks nice and ages well?

  • 3 years ago

    Now that it’s stained (no finish coat) will it sand back down okay to put a natural coat on you think? Its only been sanded down this time otherwise it was untouched.

  • 3 years ago

    If you are staining the floor, please use a oil based poly. Don't be me! Our floor refinisher didn't let the stain dry long enough and our floors have White Line Syndrome (Google it) as well as portions turning a milky color.

  • 3 years ago

    I think we’re just going sealer/water based finish. We stained special walnut and it pulled a tone of strong orange undertones we didn’t see in the sample patch. Such an expensive nightmare this has turned into but luckily they didn’t put finish coats down yet.

  • 3 years ago

    @G&Sflooring is this red or white oak you think?

  • 3 years ago

    @G&Sflooring what sheen do most people get with the Loba Supra 2k at? I’m definitely not a matte person it looks dull. The contractor said semi gloss is what he uses most. I’m between semi gloss and satin but unsure of how “shiny” these actually are.

    Does one hold up better than the other or is it just a shine preference? We don’t have a lot of windows/direct light. We have a toddler and plan to get a large breed dog.

  • PRO
    3 years ago
    last modified: 3 years ago

    In my region , Satin is the dominating sheen. AT is AT, the performance will be the same regardless of the sheen. It's Loba's top of the line finish. You will be able to sleep at night. The shinier the sheen the easier to clean (wet mop).

    Semi-gloss seems suitable for your home, since you mentioned you do not have a lot of direct lighting and windows. The extra shine will provide a lot of bounce lighting to help brighten up the space. There is a glare factor to consider. If, you are not a fan, go with satin.


    The image you last posted looks like a matte. Do you like the sheen in the image?

  • 3 years ago

    Yeah I do like that picture but of course it’s hard to tell from a picture. Is it possible to do the primer, and a coat of semi gloss finish to see how I like the sheen and then go to satin for the second coat of finish if I decide I want it toned down a little?

  • PRO
    3 years ago

    Yes, you can do that . do it in one room or up to 400 sf. thats what one gallon covers. the contractor does not want to waste money.