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If budget is an issue, you might be safer buying an existing house. New construction rarely finishes on budget. There are many unforeseen issues when you build. Were there special conditions on the lot such as drainage, septic cost over runs, increase of costs of trusses or windows or HVAC, special engineering suddenly required by an inspector, etc. It is very tempting when you are building to choose something “just a little nicer” or “just a little more environmentally friendly” or “ just a little bit more convenient “. That $39 faucet becomes $53, that $80 sconce becomes $ 105, that $1200 garage door becomes $1450…..

A 6" polished concrete floor will be very expensive . - both in the materials cost and the finishing (think at least $10/ sq ft for polishing - that's 15% of your stated budget.

This is not a budget build if you want to do well.

IMO the 16' ceilings will eat up all the savings quite quickly for heating and cooling. You need to contact architects how have experience in your area with all the codes that have to be met. Why do you think ithis a cheap alternative. The 28K is not even a home type building it is a giant shed.

"I’m going as cheap and simple as possible."

Your desires do not match your ethos. A 6" slab is overkill. You didn't state your climate, but you will probably have to build 2 shells - the metal building and an interior shell. Your 2nd floor cannot be supported by the metal building, so will need an interior structure (if no interior separate shell). The stairs and having a comfortable HVAC for an upper floor adds extra to the costs. So, just with your description, there are cheaper and simpler ways to build a shelter. But you can certainly build a metal building, how much that will ultimately cost will depend on your standards of living, your site (e.g. septic, pad prep, rural availability of concrete, etc) or what standards are imposed on you by others (loan, insurance, permitting).

30 years ago, we self built a 30x60 heated and cooled shop with 11’ ceilings. No plumbing, but lots of electrical. Vinyl siding with exterior foam sheathing over 2x6 construction. Epoxy over concrete slab. Insulated over code. Our shop cost 80% in today’s dollars of what you want to spend totally on a home, with a much more expensive metal shell impediment.

If you are doing this 100% with your own hands, and build conventionally, without the obstacle of a metal barn shell, you can probably do something energy efficient right under 175K. If you have to pay for labor, and/or deal with correcting the deficiencies of a barn, it will be a whole lot more.

The concept you're describing is often called a Barndominium or a Barndo. A few people have built them out here in the country where I live; they're often rustic, and high ceilings /lofts are common.

Random thoughts:

- You can find plenty of info /examples on this type of build online.

- If you could save big on this type of build, they'd be more common. This isn't a new, untried idea.

- Where do you plan to build? If the answer is "a neighborhood" your HOA may not approve something "different".

- Windows are often a sticking point on Barndominiums; they often come out looking cheap /ruin the overall look. If you go this direction, don't cheap out on windows.

- Do you need to borrow for this build? Banks are often unwilling to lend for something unusual.

- Concrete floors are ubiquitous in this type of build, but consider that they are hard on the feet and legs, especially as you grow older.

- Heating a house with 16' ceilings is expensive. Consider heated flooring.

- Termites aren't going to eat your metal house.

- You'll need to insulate the walls well.

- If you really want to do the cheapest /easiest thing possible, buy an existing house. Build what you're describing if your goal is a unique Barndo.

Why 16’ ceilings? Because a loft would be impossible without higher walls and a second story would also be impossible. I’ve always been told that it’s cheaper to build up, not out. An 1,800sq ft house doesn’t sound that big to me… there would be no attic or basement. I’ve never heard that a stick build was cheaper than a metal building or pole barn. I could cut the price down by only going with a slab on the house part and the garage side go with stone (as you could pour concrete later if wanted). It’s hard for me to imagine this is expensive. A stickbuild frame can still be expensive but I’ve heard mixed reviews on which is cheaper: building or buying. Some say buying, some say building. Although a metal building, as far as putting up a shell is faster and cheaper labor wise. And as I’ve said, finding the right land has been difficult. I’m open to listening to any creative ideas.

In doing your math, don't forget you need stairs, so 30' x 30' will yield less than 900 sq. ft.

I know someone who bought acreage and put a mobile home to accommodate their large family most affordably. They later subdivided, selling the mobile home and ten acres to farmers like yourself and building a conventional home.

Have you considered a manufactured home?

Have you ever been in a metal building? Maybe get inside one first and understand they are a very sparse structure with long spans of metal "siding." So the walls being just adequate enough to only support the metal "siding" has been overlooked. Hence the need to build a whole 'nother shell inside the metal building. Unless you can live in hodunk, but if that's your level of living it would be cheaper to just buy a camper.

ABC, I’m aware that framing still needs to be done. A lot of these homes end up being expensive because the homeowner puts in expensive stuff. But the home I’m talking about would mainly be framing the interior walls in with as much privacy as having framed in bathroom, that’s the extent. I know these walls aren’t load bearing. To build a stickbuild eqivalent would cost $300k easily from what I’ve seen.

3onthetree, I will never live in a camper, a trailer, a mobile home or anything remotely close. I’m not going to live in a tiny home or a container either. I don’t like renting but I’m not going to go down that road. I’ll be able to go out and buy a half a million dollar home in a couple years but I’m sick of renting at the moment. I want something cheap so I can rent it out after I decide to move out of that place as well.

A lot of these homes end up being expensive because the homeowner puts in expensive stuff.

You assume you're smarter than the other people who do this kind of build?

I will never live in a camper, a trailer, a mobile home or anything remotely close. I’m not going to live in a tiny home or a container either. I don’t like renting but I’m not going to go down that road. I’ll be able to go out and buy a half a million dollar home in a couple years but I’m sick of renting at the moment. I want something cheap so I can rent it out after I decide to move out of that place as well.

If you're going to be able to buy a half-million dollar home in just a couple years, keep renting for the moment -- I know, I know, it chafes to hand over money month after month and have nothing to show for it, but life is long, and a couple years is no time at all. This stop-gap measure will cost more than you anticipate (in terms of time and money). Renting later won't be an effort-free option -- you'll always need to fix something or transition between renters. If you're going to be able to have "what you really want" in only a few years, tough it out.

I agree with @Mrs Pete, if you will be able to buy what you want in a couple years,  just keep renting until then.  It may take nearly two years to build anyway,  and if you turn around and sell it right away,  you must likely will lose money overall.  Better to just rent.

You seem to have already determined your costs and your plan. Good luck on the new build.

First your initial assumption is wrong. Existing foot for foot is cheaper than building. Building costs only go up and there are supply issues. Second I would look into homes you could bring in. Not necessarily built off site and brought in but previously owned homes that are moved to a new site. We have a ton of them in our area.

Since you seem to know better than those on this forum you asked, the best of luck to you. Please come back once your metal building it built and show us and let us know what it actually cost to build.

Take the 29K metal building and throw away:

The vertical posts that will be superseded, the windows and doors that won’t meet code, the insulation that will not meet code, the hardware that will not meet code, roof trusses that will not meet code.

ADD.

Seismic, high wind, or snow load engineering and hardware. Including reengineering the roof truss system.

Residential foundation.

Slab pour.

Full exterior and interior framing for a complete home.

Roof trusses that meet residential codes.

Full 200 amp residential electrical rough in.

Full residential plumbing rough in.

Full insulation in walls and ceilings to meet residential code.

Full HVAC.

Full drywall over the framing, wiring, and insulation.

All finish electrical.

All finish plumbing.

Finish flooring.

Finish millwork and moldings.

All finish cabinetry.

Countertops.

Appliances.

All paint and wall coverings including acrylic panels for the baths.

All the labor for all of the above.

The only useful thing that you are purchasing from the metal building kit is the metal. And it will not contain the nice trim pieces to finish it off appropriately and attractively. Those are extra.

Vinyl siding and asphalt roofing would be cheaper than the metal.

In the end, the kit gets in the way of creating a house. You are conventionally framing the whole house inside the metal shell anyway. If you want to purchase metal siding and roofing for a conventionally framed building because of the look, then do that. It will cost more than other options, but at least you are not throwing away so much of the kit.

We built our shop to residential standards, because any other way of building made no sense. We did not want an uncomfortable and poorly built barn.