Pictures? Are the joints actually micro bevels?

The floor isn't beveled and there are not noticeable gaps between boards. The floor is in very good shape, we are just changing the color. Its the end grain at the seams where the color isn't coming up, keeping in mind the flooring guys just sanded enough to put samples down. I am hoping with a more aggressive sanding, the stain will lift from those seems more. Thoughts?

Good to know, thank you. Wish the contractor had mentioned this before we took on this project, since the entire point was to go lighter.

Thank you. I have no idea what their sanding process is for doing the samples vs. when they are ready to do the actual refinishing job. I have some hope that maybe we can go light like I want and it won't be too bad. My favorite sample was Bona Natural Seal (2 coats). I am also trying to find a stain combo that will be about the same depth of Duraseal's Weathered Oak but a smidge warmer. Open to any suggestions!

There is a standard that everyone is suppose to follow for sanding wood floors. But, everyone develops their own in order to optimize production. This is why there are varying results and no one wants to fix another persons job.

Regarding your last question: Have you tried water popping with weathered oak? Weathered oak has a brown undertone. Water popping will bring it out more.

My guess is the final sand will reduce it somewhat and with time it will no longer be something you notice. The dark stain just looks like a wider joint.

G & S, they didn't water pop the Weathered Oak. They are coming back tomorrow and I'm hoping we can try again with it waterpopped. I do like the depth on it, it was just a little too grayish in the sample they did. I am also going to try Bona white mixed with Bona Natural 1:1.

I'll attach a photo of my samples and also a photo of the look I'm trying to achieve (unelss we stick with a very light/natural look with Natural Seal). From left to right, the samples are Natural Seal (2 coats), Weathered Oak (not water popped), Nordic Seal (too light), 1:1 Bona White with Duraseal Weathered Oak (too gray), Natural Seal 1 coat, 1:1 Bona White with Duraseal Weathered Oak waterpopped (too gray but I like that it's blending the variation between boards), and just Traffic HD with no seal or stain. My favorites are the Natural Seal 2 coats and the Weathered Oak, if it were a bit warmer.

You have white oak, go with either one coat of classic seal or two coats of natural seal for the inspo picture. Wood will color change and darken.

Thank you! I have noticed that my sample of two coats of natural seal has darkened even in the week since they put it down. With 2 coats of natural seal, should we do 2 or 3 coats of Traffic on top?

Updating here - sanding starts on Saturday. I'm 99% certain we are going with two coats of Natural Seal, with 3 coats of Traffic HD Matte on top. Does the additional coats of finish darken or change the color? My samples only had one coat of finish on top. My second choice is Weathered Oak, with waterpopping (you were right - it did make it warmer and browner - thanks for the tip!).

Weathered Oak, waterpopped on left, Natural Seal 2 coats on right

Update - went with weathered oak (water popped) to help camouflage the areas where darker stain remained in the grain. Turned out well.

Looks nice. The benefit from going lighter far outweighs the issue of having some remnant of the previous dark stain.

Looks Great!

Sooo new issue - staining the bannister/baluster to match. Painter is here (flooring guys don't/wont do it) and even though he waterpopped the wood, the stain is going on much grayer than the color of the floor. I don't know if it's the amount of water he used (too little), the application technique (damp rag), the lack of drying time (a few minutes!) or what but the waterpopped sample looks indistinguishable from the unwaterpopped - both look grayish. Wondering if I need to bring someone else in to help or if we should try a different stain color blend like weathered oak and bona natural, 1:1. Any thoughts? Also, I'm not thrilled with the sanding job on the baluster - there are quite a few areas where they didn't get the dark stain up, and it's especially bad around the bottom of the newel post. I don't know if this is something I should accept or whether this is subpar work. Would love thoughts from the pros!! Thank you thank you!

Post photos

We are leaning towards painting newel post white.

the top is weathered oak (whoops posted same pic 2x), not water popped and the the last one is waterpopped but I'm not sure it was fully dry when stained. Color is lighter and grayer than treads/floor. We are thinking of trying a different color - medium brown? Or mixing provincial or early american or special walnut with weathered oak or white?

weathered oak, not water popped.

floors/treads are white oak. handrail and newel post are red oak we think.

You still have remnants of the old finish, especially the polyurethane left over. Can see it in the first two photos with the volute and post. Besides that, make sure the stain is stirred and not shaken. Mix in all the pigmentas at the bottom of the can.