I have two comments:

New build, do hardwood or engineered hardwood instead of LVT. It is more valuable at resale.

Engineered would be and has been my choice. It isn't as sensitive to water/humidity as solid wood.

You can use engineered throughout your first floor, including kitchen and baths. Choose factory finished as it is a tougher finish and you are assured of the stain color.

https://www.thespruce.com/wood-flooring-resale-value-1821878

I would continue with the wood floor and add a beautiful rug instead of tile. Why? Tile can be slippery when wet. And, you could get sick of it in a few years.

Try it in the mudroom, instead.

Ada Modern Classic · More Info

We have a large rambunctious dog and are aiming to avoid scratches. I've seen there's some "scratch resistant" engineered hardwood, but is it actually more scratch resistant than LVP?

We have engineered hardwood (no idea the manufacturer or product line) in our current house and he's done a number on it.

Get hardwood—if it gets nasty for any reason, you can refinish it. Also, regularly grooming your dog will remove the risk of scratches from that quarter.

We do regularly groom our dog and keep his nails trimmed, but they still make contact with the floor. He gets plenty of walks and outdoor fetch time, but he still gets some indoor zoomies.

I'll pass on the hardwood, with the higher upfront cost and the need for refinishing.

If anyone else has comments relevant to the question I actually posted, I'd appreciate it.

I replaced the tile entry in my former house with hardwood (for looks and resale.) The tile was slippery when wet, so I always had a rug in the entry to avoid slips and let people wipe their feet. What would you do if you or a guest entered with wet shoes? Would you have a rug over the tile, or somewhere nearby?

I'd stick to one type of flooring and ditto the comment about using a rug. Easier to swap out when your tastes change.

LVP scratches too. And dents too.

Also agree about not changing the flooring. Only place flooring should be different is in the bathrooms.

Question: Why the full bath in the entry hallway?

I might get slammed for this, but I have a wood-look tile that has excellent slip resistance and I would have used it throughout my entire home, had it been available back when we built the house. We have been installing the porcelain wood look tile in rooms we have renovated and it really gives the look of wood floors with resistance to pet accidents, dirty paws, and toenails. We have had golden retrievers for 30 years, and trust me, unless you can accept the “patina” of scratches on a true wood floor, I would not suggest that route with happy-go-lucky, rambunctious pups (trimmed toenails or not). You can always put area rugs over the floors in areas where you want a softer feel.

Cpartist, we have Coretec LVP in our Florida home. i don't know what i would have to do to damage it,

We drag our heavy lanai furniture across it, two dogs running around, I’ve dropped things…..

However, we are getting Permsheild for our NY home basement. Coretec choices didn’t fit with this home.

This LVP is not as durable, but its not in a high traffic area.

So, it really depends.

Beerpocket, we also have a room off our garage with the wood look planks. I had it before it became popular.

Although it is not as popular, it still looks nice and the newest versions of today look even better.

Everything has a place if it makes sense to you and your lifestyle.

Thanks for the comments on the flooring change. Like I said, I wasn't fully on board with the idea. I think we would have a rug in the foyer, which kind of defeats the purpose of having an interesting tile there. 

We are open to things like wood look porcelain or other non-wood materials. Aren't fully set on LVP necessarily, but I'd say it's highly unlikely we'd do hardwood/engineered wood.

cpartist - we have several reasons for the full bath on this floor.

Just do a high quality 20 ml wear layer LVP allllll over, and define areas with area rugs, including the entry. Don't break up the house with multiple floors.

You are choking your foyer entry, and it will receive no natural light to speak of.

There is ZERO point to the FULL bath, unless accessible from the den with its future use as a bedroom.

The entire area, foyer, bath, den, closets need big re think. Sorry.!!

Post the entire plan in jpeg that can be blown up with a click.

@JAN MOYER There's a window on the bottom right, and the entry door will be 2/3 glass, with sidelights and transom. So how does that translate to no natural light to speak of?

I'm not looking for any comments on the floor plan, we're quite happy with the layout for our needs. If I wanted comments on the floor plan, I would have made a post asking for comments on the floor plan.

"there would be a height transition with tile. Is that correct?"

Yes, unless the builder goes through the time (cha-ching) and effort (cha-ching) to lower part of the subfloor/floor joists (cha-ching) to make up the difference in the finish flooring thicknesses; and it would have to be determined how to handle the transition from one flooring material to another flooring material (cha-ching).

Has construction started?

For design purposes, I think it is best if your foyer floor matches the flooring it runs into. I had thought about tile in more places in my home but decided against it. Also - as someone else said - I think tile in a foyer would be slippery without a rug. If there’s a rug, then what is the point of a patterned tile?

@Mark Bischak, Architect Site prep is done - one tree removed, a few loads of fill dirt brought in, silt fence is up, and construction entrance put down. Foundation should start next week.

Thank you for answering the question regarding height transition!

I do agree with the other comments here that a rug makes more sense than a different floor material, but part of my reason for posting was just confirming what our builder said about the height transition. And the post was prompted in part because we were at a new restaurant yesterday that had tile and vinyl plank at the same height, with a metal strip between them.

Knowing that more exact reason of what would be required to accomplish this will also help with the "maybe we shouldn't do tile in the foyer" case with my fiancee.

Forgive the free suggestion, and to further irritate, but will you be thrilled when your foyer entrance might have a view of a towel and toiletries for a possible guest in the den?

You can also have a more attractive hall passage with fewer doors in a line.

Relatively easy adjustments to framing. Niche created for a pretty chest of drawers, a LAMP for a warm glow in the evening and a nice piece of art you love above that chest.

All a bit less utilitarian than a line up of closet storage, and hopefully you have a garage entrance to complement the front foyer. I', just making the assumption, that the foyer bath, acts as "powder room" for guests and as a needed guest FULL bath.

Bonus is additional light and open feeling in hall, from natural light and view in the den

The potential for a height transition between flooring materials depends on what those material are what their finished installation heights will be. I used 5/8" engineered wood floors and those match up perfectly with standard thickness porcelain tiles, so my floors transitions are perfectly flat/level.

In our previous house we built a guest house and used wood-look porcelain tile. It looked good and required very little care.

I was going to suggest starting a different discussion to review the house's overall design (kitchen looks suspicious), but as always:

WARNING: Posting your entire floor plan opens you up to facts you may not want to know, but should. Be prepared for suggestions that will make for a better design. Keep a thick skin, open mind, sense of humor, and a glass of wine within arms reach. You may not enjoy it, but everyone else will and you will be better off in the long run if you heed well the advice.

The actual kitchen layout is a good bit different than shown (note the "verify kitchen layout with kitchen designer").

I posted a previous revision of the full plans many months ago and we did incorporate a lot of the changes that came from that post.

To Mark's point

We really do not proffer suggestions to irritate any op. We do it because sometimes we see something you don't. That can happen no matter how many times you've stared at your own plan.

Side by side below. No view of bath from hall, still privacy for what I imagine is a flex space of sorts. . I won't reiterate other bonuses I see with this......they're in text above.

Often, it's better to revive your old thread....so things aren't seen in isolation.

I could improve beyond......with a bath layout change : )

I have big dogs and hardwood would have been destroyed long ago we have LVP in our walkout where the dog have free runto a huge dog run So in and out in all kinds of weather a quick mop up at the end of the day the floors look like new 15 yrs later I do however wonder why a change to tile from LVP in the entry it really makes no sense

We have been installing the porcelain wood look tile in rooms we have renovated and it really gives the look of wood floors with resistance to pet accidents, dirty paws, and toenails.

While I agree that it does give resistance to pet accidents, dirty paws and toenails, there is no way someone looking at a porcelain wood look tile floor would ever in a million years mistake it for wood. Plus tile is very, very hard on knees and backs.

@Patricia Colwell Consulting I agree the change in material in the entry doesn't really make sense. My fiancée is quite a bit more creative than me, and has a lot of good ideas, but with that comes the occasional not so good idea. I don't think she's particularly set on this idea, it was more of a "oh, it might be neat if we could do...." kind of thing.

What LVP do you have?

This idea that there is one good answer for every home is kind of crazy.

I own a crazy dog, in the past I worked in the humane industry and had 14 indoor pets and often had foster animals. I loved my tile floors in my last home, but as I aged the tile was hard on my joints. When I moved to a home with wall to wall carpeting I was not expecting to get almost complete relief from my nightly joint pain.

I still have a dog and still don't like carpet and still like the look of tile. I got coretec large format (18"x36") stone look LVT. I bought enough for the entire home except the foyer, which has purple, red and green slate that is beautiful and works with my home. I would have done all slate if I could have afforded all slate and could have made it easier on my joints, but that isn't happening.

I purposefully selected two different colors of the same LVT. I wanted a darker color in my guest bedroom and bath than the rest of the house. It works with the color scheme and look that I am trying to achieve.

There is nothing wrong with having two or three different flooring materials or with using just one. There is nothing wrong with using wood, engineered wood, LVT, LVP, tile, concrete or wall to wall carpet if it is what you like and works well for your lifestyle.

My two sisters each chose to mix flooring materials. One has wood look LVP and wall to wall carpeting. She wanted some low pile carpeting, can't have area carpets due to it being a trip hazard and for both personal aesthetic reasons and medical reasons wanted the softness and better traction in the bedrooms.

My other sister just likes carpet. She has LVT in her entry, laundry, kitchen, pantry and dining room. Has carpet in the living room, game room and bedrooms and did tile floors in the bathrooms.

You could do LVP and LVT if you want the look of tile and wood planks in a luxury vinyl.

My sister who has the tile look LVT had hers grouted. Everyone who comes to her home thinks it is tile. She has lived in her home with the grouted LVT for over 15 years and it looks brand new. I wanted a more monotone look with my LVT and chose a click together non grouted style of LVT.

My concern with a different material for our foyer, is that there's no good delineation point. If we had it stop at the stairs, then it's also in the middle of the closet. If it extends in to the hall a bit (the red line I showed) then that's not just the foyers and would look weird.

I've seen lots of examples with a larger, more grand foyer, and that can look great with a different material. I just don't think it's the right fit for our layout. The purpose of this post was just the question of, from an installation standpoint, what is actually involved with that, but unsurprisingly the thread rapidly went off topic from what I was asking.

That happens here on HOUZZ, but it’s ok because we all learn from the comments and suggestions. It can be a “careful what you ask” environment from time to time, but it is still a great resource and fun to read. I think you just answered your own question in this last post: there isn’t a good point of delineation for a change in flooring, it sounds like, even from an appearance standpoint (let alone elevation change problem) so pick something that suits you and how you think you will use the home. Trends come and go, no matter what you pick - so pick something you both like and you’ll be happy. Good luck with your new build!

It didn't go that far off the topic, which is your home. It didn't go to politics, or worse : )

It went to a suggestion.and some comments on carpets etc. It's the internet, and this is probably one of THE most helpful sites for free design on the internet. Gotta take the unsolicited "bad" with the simple answers "yes/no/other "......good.

A single flooring is quite unifying, an LVP has the advantage of running right INTO that bath......

and I realize you perhaps did not ask as to that.

Transition strips are ugly and we try to avoid, but LVP can be very thin & "ramping" can be too visible while raising the entire floor would negate most of LVPs desired benefit - COST SAVINGS. If over a slab its close, but tile on a wood subfloor (I see basement stairs) is closer to 1"+ in thickness vs thin LVP. You would need more time from the highest skilled installer than typical to install around to up to a tile highlight. Builder has given you good advice.