Software
Houzz Logo Print
webuser_587923026

Bedroom 1, Bedroom 3 and Kitchen ALWAYS Hotter

2 years ago
last modified: 2 years ago

My master bedroom 1, bedroom 3 and kitchen is consistently 3 degrees warmer than the rest of the house at any time of the year.


Last year I hired a professional to install blown in insulation to my attic and air sealed all windows and doors. I'd say my bedroom is covered by 90% of my attic space based on the design of my home. Additionally, my master bedroom sits over a crawl space which was also insulated with rigid foam board along the foundation walls and sprayed. No vapor barrier was added and nothing was done to underneath the master beedroom floor where the crawlspace is (this is for context). My crawlspace leads to my unfinished basement. FYI. The crawlspace covers the whole entire master bedroom.


In my master bedroom 1 I have a 78x84 high performance anderson sliding doors (covered by white vertical vinyl blinds) to my patio. Additionally we had a giant tree that gave us shade on that part of the house from 3pm and onwards. The tree was cut down by the neighbor and now we have consistent sun beaming on the master bedroom. Ever since that tree was removed there has been a change in temperature in that room. Particularly in the summer. The patio doors, big wall is facing the west so I do get all that day long sun.

My master bedroom 1 has only the high performance anderson patio door and one small window 2x2, otherwise, it is all wall. Two exterior walls to be precise. Thr wall with the patio door is about 30 feet and the other wall is about 15 feet (this wall has the small window). I would like to add that I had blown in insulation as well to both exterior walls.


When I bought the house it had two attic fans but one was disconnected (never replaced it) and the other attic fan which is above our bedroom works but makes a loud metallic noise (hence probably need to get this replaced).


Bedroom 3 I believe is built on a concrete slab and has a flat roof with a slight slope of maybe 10-15 degrees. Half of my kitchen has a flat roof.


Bedroom 3 has 3x5 single pane windows on both exterior walls and a exit door with double pane glass. Kitchen has a double paned 3x5 window.


Bedroom 3 has no door and just an opening that leads to kitchen and to basement.


Any insight to my unique problem? I simply want to have the master bedroom 1, bedroom 3 and kitchen the same consistent temperature. For what it is worth in the winter time my master bedroom is always 1-3 degrees warmer than the rest of the house too. However, this has always been the case (pre insulation).


FYI: Rest of house has no issues with temperature and the relative humidity for the house is always between 50-65% during the summer.


Summer Temperature (w/ AC set to 70)

BR1 - 72-74 degrees

BR2 - 70-71 degrees

BR3 - 73-74 degrees

Kitchen - 71-72 degrees

Dining Room - 70-71 degrees

Both bathrooms - 70 degrees

Living Room - 70 degrees


Winter Temperature (w/ heat set to 70)

BR1 - 71-73 degrees

BR2 - 69-70 degrees

BR3 - 66-68 degrees (on a cold night when heat off it can drop to 62-65)

Kitchen - 69-70 degrees

Dining Room - 69-70 degrees

Both bathrooms - 70 degrees

Living Room - 70 degrees


HVAC is in the attic. New 3.5 ton system with new ducts installed 3-4 years ago.


Gas furnace in basement. New furnace installed 3-4 years ago. Ductwork is old, but I am getting average to excellent heat from all my vents.


AC Thermostat is on the hallway outside of Bedroom 2. Heat thermostat is not locked to any wall so we move it around and usually we place in the dining room since it is the middle of the two temperature differences between the house.


I think only Bedroom 3 was an addition from over 30 years ago.


Providing visuals of home to visualize how it is positioned in relation to the direction of sun.







Comments (8)

  • 2 years ago

    There is no talk of HVAC. I will assume with both heat/ac and a basement that it is forced air and a basement unit. Your house appears to have been bastardized with 2, if not 3 or 4, additions over the years. If you want perfect consistency of temps within each room, then beyond insulation, air sealing, and attic ventilation you should be looking at your ductwork, in terms of sizing, balancing, register locations, distance from unit, returns locations, and thermostat location.

    HU-587923026 thanked 3onthetree
  • 2 years ago

    Allow me to update the post.


    HVAC is in the attic. New 3.5 ton system with new ducts installed 3-4 years ago.

    Gas furnace in basement. New furnace installed 3-4 years ago. Ductwork is old, but I am getting average to excellent heat from all my vents.


    AC Thermostat is on the hallway outside of Bedroom 2. Heat thermostat is not locked to any wall so we move it around and usually we place in the dining room since it is the middle of the two temperature differences between the house.


    I think only Bedroom 3 was an addition from over 30 years ago.

  • 2 years ago

    Stax - I am looking for suggestions as to how I can fix this. Additionally, I am not even sure those are the problems and I want to make sure since I am not an expert. If others confirm this then I suppose I figured it out? However, still need ways to fix this.

  • PRO
    2 years ago

    Hi, HU,

    Given the diversity of foundations (crawl, basement, and slab,) the different roofs in your home (gable, flat and low-slope,) and 30-year old ductwork, a 4 F temperature differential across the entire home isn't all that bad. I suggest you consider installing a smart thermostat with temperature sensors in multiple rooms. You can then select whether to average them or choose a particular room to use as the input for temperature control.

    It's not clear whether you were referring to a lack of a soil vapor retarder in the crawl space, but if you don't have one, I'd make it a priority to add it.

    HU-587923026 thanked Charles Ross Homes
  • 2 years ago

    Charles - pls note that the 30 year old ductwork is for the heat only. for the hvac the ductwork is only 3-4 years old.


    i currently have a google nest.


    i was referring to a vapor barrier in the crawlspace. When i got the crawlsace insulated with foaarm board and sealed around the rim joists they told me a vaper barrier was not necessary.

  • PRO
    2 years ago

    The need for a vapor retarder on the interior of the crawlspace walls depends on whether your walls have waterproofing or damp-proofing or nothing on the exterior. If they do, you're all set. If not, rigid foam can limit transfer of moisture to the interior if the joints are taped or sealed and the insulation is sealed at the top.

    You always need a soil vapor retarder installed on the floor of a crawl space. Seams should be lapped and taped. The vapor retarder should continue up piers and be sealed.

    HU-587923026 thanked Charles Ross Homes
  • 6 months ago

    What about putting in a 1.5 to 2ton separate ac system for your side of the house?

    We had similar issues, living in FL that Master and master bath couldn't keep cool without running our 3.5 ton at 70 to get the master to 77°. We also get all day sun on those same as you.

    You could have the AC tech disconnect the ducts from your main ac and hook to new one. Just a thought.