This is a mophead form of bigleaf hydrangea, H. macrophylla. How well it may bloom for you is heavily dependent on your specific location, how and when it has been pruned and to a lesser extent (but still important to know) the cultivar and whether or not it is a repeat bloomer (flowers on old and new wood).

Generally, these shrubs are genetically motivated to flower on the previous year's growth - the 'old wood'. Latent, unseen flower buds are formed in late summer and early fall for the following year. Therefore, pruning anything - other than deadheading - after the primary bloom time can result in the removal of any of the seasonal growth that will produce next season's flowers. These latent buds are also sensitive to cold winters and late spring frosts and these can also result in lack of flowering in colder zones (lower than USDA 7) unless somehow insulated against these temp extremes by some sort of winter protection.

There is a growing selection of repeat blooming bigleaf hydrangeas that have been bred to flower on the current season's growth - "new" wood - as well as old. These are intended for colder climates that would experience winter dieback due to cold that would reduce or eliminate old growth flowering. Generally, the new growth flowers do not appear until late summer into early fall although some varieties are better at generating earlier flowers than others.

My Zone is just lower then 7 at 6b. I would not know the Cultivar off hand. Location is the NW side of my lot and I would define it as partial sun. This North side is a cold side and the ground snow melts on this side last every year. "Latent, unseen flower buds are formed in late summer..." Unseen means unseen, but is there any way to identify that I am at least getting flower buds this fall. Winter protection. Do you mean like a burlap wrap. The kind I see on evergreens or will some other material due? if we assume that my Hydrangea is genetically motivated to flower on old wood then (1) No pruning and (2) Winter Protection. Is there anything else I can do to promote flowering next year. I'm not adverse to a challenge and would like to try and get this plant to bloom before I give up in favor of a less difficult cultivar. Say one like the repeat blooming big leaf hydrangea you mentioned. Is there a specific name I should look for if I decide to seek out a repeat blooming big leaf. Thanks for the response

" is there any way to identify that I am at least getting flower buds this fall. " Let me assure you, they are there :-) These types of hydrangeas bloom at the terminal ends of branches and stems but any buds will not become visible until late in spring......as long as they have not been damaged by cold. They will look like tiny clumps of broccoli.

" Winter protection. Do you mean like a burlap wrap. " I do not live where any winter protection is required but I doubt that will be adequate. Discussions over the years on this forum indicate a loosely fitting wire cage surrounding the shrub and then filled with leaves or straw or other loose mulch is the most effective way to prevent winter cold damage. Unfortunately, this must be kept in place until after the last spring frost to make sure that any sharp spring cold snaps don't also damage any flower buds.

Nothing else - other than cultivar selection - will increase flowering. Hydrangeas are not heavy feeders and mulching the drip line with compost is all they need. And plenty of water during the growing season.

Where the single flower is located is somewhat indicative that this may be one of the old and new wood bloomers......they have been around for 20 years. The earliest (Endless Summer The Original) is not the best of these and new growth flowering is sporadic. The other Endless summer series shrubs are much better, with Bloomstruck the best IMO. Other rebloomers are the Let's Dance series, the Everlasting series and the Forever and Ever series. Each offers several different hydrangeas with differences in flower color, shape and overall size.

I used a lined plastic fencing mounted around four steel post I hammered into the ground,. Lined the fencing with landscape fabric and pour my fall leaves into the enclosure with my Hydrangea. The pics were taken today on May 7th. I have some leaf growth, but I hoping to be able to see Flower Buds at some point. Can anyone look at my pics and tell be whereI would look for buds specifically as when I open the leaf to look at centers I see no sign of buds there.

The regrowth after winter is looking good and there is no obvious stem dieback. That is a very encouraging sign!! But in most parts of the country, it is still too early to see visible flower buds. Give it a few more weeks.

For most of the country, unless they have been forced into early bloom for Mother's Day sales. big leaf hydrangeas will not be in bloom until at least June and often not until July.

The flower buds on mine are tiny and still hidden by leaves. Certainly not flowering yet.

Getting mixed info on whether I should Deadhead or not. Any suggestions. The flowers are starting to look old and seem to weight down the branches a lot, to the point I worry the foliage is being overly worked over

Thanks

Deadheading will not encourage the development of more flowers, like it would with annuals or many herbaceous perennials. In fact, many gardeners leave the old flowerheads in place for winter interest. But if you do not like the look, they can be removed any time after the blooms go over. Just cut back to right above the next set of leaves. This will not affect the next season's flowers.

Generally, leaving the spent flowers on a macrophylla will not adversely affect either the current foliage or the stems due to weight.

Mophead hydrangeas generally bloom on old wood, meaning they develop their flower buds for the next season shortly after they bloom. Avoid pruning them heavily in late fall or early spring as you may cut off the flower buds. If you need to prune to shape the plant or remove dead branches, do so just after flowering in the summer.

The greenery is beautiful, however. It appears to be very healthy.

" Mophead hydrangeas generally bloom on old wood, meaning they develop their flower buds for the next season shortly after they bloom. "

Some do......many also bloom on new growth, especially the newer introductions. Deadheading is not the same as pruning and as I previously noted, can be done at any time the flowers begin to fade or when their appearance displeases. As long as you only remove the old flowers back to the next set of leaves below the flowers, it will not affect next year's blooms.

Thanks for the Comments. I was concern it might affect next years flowers, but I have seen videos where they deadhead like gardengal48 says. Just back to the next set of leave. I have not decide whether I am going to do it or not. I do admit I was thinking about it because I do not like the look. I may just do a few to get a better fall view of the foliage which shows some leafs with a a nice white/green variegation.