The builder suggested soldieing brick to give it a band but then the walls went up and there are no soldiered bricks. He says the plan was to put hardy board on top of the brick for a band. Would that create a maintenance issue or a water problem? (Color difference is just drying brick)

Thanks PPF - just to be clear is thw no to the first question or the one in the comment? if it wont work do you have any suggestions?

What does the person that designed the house suggest?

I think PPF. accurately described the Hardie Board solution using the architectural terminology "it would look stupid."

Thank you both. Im just sick about this because it was an important feature to me. I wondered if it could be fixed like brick repair is done even if it is only done across the front

I would think the mason could remove small sections of brick where the "belly band" is suppose to be and replace the brick to make it the way it should be. I would guess they will not be willing to do that.

The builders only solution is the hardy band and the architect was only hired to tweak the drawings and hasnt been involved since. Ive thought about a smooth mortar line where the soldiered bricks should have been but im afraid that would be worse and that im just going to have to live with it - sadly one of many things that I couldnt get made right.

You're lucky the house wasn't built the way it was drawn.

A continuous simulated wood horizontal band has no place in or on a brick wall unless it's a real or simulated timber header over an opening or a "frieze" board immediately below the roof eaves and rakes. You should still be able to add a frieze board. I recommend Azek cellular PVC trim boards or smooth Hardie Trim Boards.

What happened to the ocular windows and industrial awnings? Drawings with "TBD" notes need to be reissued ASAP. You should avoid architects willing to "tweak" drawings and disappear.

it will still have the awnings! The architect indicated AZEK and the builder is wanting the smooth hardy. i told him to wait so I could decide what to do

The elevations are difficult to read, but I can't find any detail shown like a soldier course. If it's not on the plans, it's understandable that it was missed.

I think you'll be better off leaving the brick as currently constructed and negotiating a credit from the builder for the omission.

Are those fake windows shown on the drawing under the "industrial-style awnings"?

What would the purpose be of an awning that isn't over a window or door? It's difficult to understand the intent of the design.

Where will you put the Azek or Hardie Trim? You should forget the belly band.

If I am understanding the problem I would say not to anything applied to the brick surface.

The face of any horizontal material that interrupts the brickwork should be flush with the brick with metal flashing above and below it. I'm not sure how that would be possible at this point but it would look pretty bad if not silly.

res2architect - the awning is goimg over the dining room window, a front facing garage, and the faux window on the brick you see in the picture

The builder and i had discussed the plans and resolved that there would be a soldiered brick course instead of the belly band on the olans. i think he dorgot and the hardy board suggestionis to fix that

The fake window is suggested to be applied to the face of the brick?? Skip the fake window and plant a bush in its place.

So, you're saying "no" to faux?

Problem solved! On the small section on the front where it matters, they are going to soldier the brick! Thanks for all the help!

Thanks everyone - I had help and we got it solved - soldiering the brick on the small front section where it was most important!

Only on the front? Not all the way around, similar to what was planned?

Once you have foundation plantings established you won't notice the detail on the front. But you will notice it--and the absence of it--on the side(s) and rear when there is a tall foundation.

Replacing the band with a soldier brick course does not solve the same issue of the Hardie board on top of the brick to simulate a window. Better I suppose to just mount the shutters standing off the brick and leave it at that.

Also I suppose for the gable vents if you buy some polyurethane ones and just let the water run behind them then that would be better than caulking the heck out of them too.

If you didn't notice yet, the builder installed the band higher than in the drawings, apparently to match the adjacent (but not this gable end) fascia height I presume. That now conflicts with the "awnings" height and what I assume is the intent of the banding to begin with. Might want to put some blocking where the tension rod/cables will be attaching to. And realize the brick mortar joints do not align with the wood band, nor fascia, nor eave, so the soldier course will be a little off too (should be 3 bricks high).

I think you have been dealt a hot mess. Increase the landscaping budget to as close to the national debt as you can and hire the best landscaper you can find.

Shrubbery is the last resort when there's an architectural "problem" area. Perhaps that's where the title "Landscape Architect" originated.

Thank you all. I'm satisfied with the soldier being only on the front -- the lot is such that the appearance from the side and back is not a big issue.

@3onthetree - I did notice the difference in the height. Your point about blocking for the awnings is very good. I doubt there is any and that is making me very nervous. Do I need an architect to address that issue? or an engineer? I suspect I will need someone strong if I'm going to compel the architect to make that kind of correction. Also, what should have been done for the faux window to avoid a water problem?

"Do I need an architect to address that issue? or an engineer?"

A competent contractor would have done the blocking without direction or prompting. I also would say leave the "soldier course" off if not going all the way around the house. Honestly it will stick out and make it look obviously fake.

" Also, what should have been done for the faux window to avoid a water problem? "

How are the "faux" windows being installed? What are they made of?