Your pictures didnt post. Please repost them, on this post in the comments.

show a picture. what species of wood are you talking about......each has characteristics which makes "touch ups " a different activity in each situation. The degree / extent/ location of the wear and tear is a factor as well. usually a light sanding onto factory finished cabinets would not be enough to make the surface accept new stain especially after a number of years...there are fillers/ pencils / wood putties etc....but it just depends on what has occurred in the life of the doors and fronts. .

For the picture with lots of scuffs above the drawer - get a packet of paint stain pens, test small areas to find the best color and color it in. I have refreshed many pieces of furniture and cabinetry with them. It may wear off over time and you just go back and color it in again. I find it addictive and therapeutic.

You can only disguise a failing finish with stain pens and crayons for so long. Those need to be fully stripped and refinished. That is not cheap. Or easy, if you want to DIY.

You also need knobs and pulls that have more projection, as the hand oils and cooking oils are ruining the finish. Look into better ventilation, that removes cooking byproducts that damage finishes. And look at better use practices that do not splash water and leave it.

Water, dirt, and oils are the enemy of wood finishes. You have to take steps to address functional insufficiencies and destructive behaviors before spending the massive $$$$ on a refinish.

Learn to DIY refinish wood by taking on some garage sale finds and getting a feel for it. Do not tackle cabinets first, or you will just end up painting them over the failed project blotch. It is a big project.

I've heard that Sherwin Williams can successfully match wood stains.

looks like older cabinetry. what is the interior condition ?.....if no adjustable shelves/ built on site etc you have to evaluate the real cost of tackling this long term. if the interiors are surprisingly good and meet your needs I might work on the frame areas whether stripping and refinishing or refacing or contrast paint in a white.... and leave the ? birch ? blonde wood doors....a few scuffs is all thats shown on the doors...a good clean and new knobs and you get to enjoy the vintage vibe....dont fuss w the nice doors too much.....dont paint them The framing looks the worst.

I totally agree with Kendrah! With our old cherry cabinets, I would spend some time with stain pens/markers every couple of months and found it very therapeutic. It is kind of like coloring but at the end you have a much-improved kitchen. You do have to repeat the process every once in a while, but it was a task I really did not mind!

Correct me if I’m wrong, but those cabinets are wrapped in wood veneer. That means you only ever had one or two light sandings in them. The good news is you can cover them with new wood veneer. It is a fairly straightforward process, inexpensive, and a doable DIY. It would give you the opportunity to make sure all your veneers match, and give you the chance to fix other annoying details like the trim being off.

As @herbflavor said, if the cabinet interiors are good, go for it. If they are not, use the markers and try not to look at the stuff that annoys you.

They are 60's 3/8" inset birch plywood, built in place, not a veneered and constructed in a shop product. There's a little bit more meat on those, but stripping them isn't going to involve so much sanding as it will either a heat gun or chemical stripping.

Minardi:

Plywood is veneered.

IMO, those cabinets were never stained. That is the natural color of birch with a clear finish. FWIW, birch is difficult to stain; it blotches when stained. (Pine & maple are also difficult.)

As noted, the drawer fronts & doors are veneered plywood. So no heavy sanding can be done on those parts--best to chemically strip and light sand. The face frame is probably solid wood which can be more heavily sanded.

A random orbital palm sander with a fine grit protocol isn't going to sand through the 1/64" of wood veneer on plywood unless you're really not paying attention.