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kelli_ga

What type of wire fencing should I get? (Black or silver)

last year
last modified: last year

We will be fencing 250lf, then expanding another 300lf later for a backyard dog area. We’ll be using 4x4 PT wood posts with 2x4 or 2x6 studs horizontally connecting only the post tops, all stained solid dark brown. The wire fencing will be 48” high.

There is wildlife in the area, including an occasional deer but no bears or other large animals. I’ve only seen smaller animals like squirrels and birds in the backyard. Maybe an occasional trespassing (respectful) dog or cat. There may be possums at night but I haven’t seen any yet. Our current dog is well behaved and doesn’t try to get out. (Dog is medium-sized.)

We are in the woods, and initially will only be clearing the first area in preparation for the fence. The second area is a few years out.

We want a sturdy 2”x4” wire fence that will last and be practically invisible. Part of the fence will be 50’ away from the window views on the back of the house, nestled against the backdrop of the woods, so we don’t want to see fencing dominate the view.

I bought 100’ of sturdy silver wire fencing, but I think the black may be easier on the eyes. Here is an example of what I am thinking:

https://www.deerbusters.com/metal-deer-fence/welded-wire-fence/4-x-100-welded-wire-welded-wire-14-ga-galvanized-steel-core-12-ga-after-black-pvc-coating-2-x-4-mesh/



Is the PVC coating a good idea? What features and gauge should I be looking for? Do you think the black will reflect less light, and therefore be less visible?

I actually wear a mosquito net over my head when working in the yard during bug season, and have found the black netting to be much easier to see through than the gray netting, which reflects more light. That is why I think black fencing may be preferable. But I’m not sure about the PVC coating on the black fence options, and I don’t know if the black options are less sturdy or durable than the silver options.

Also, the fence will need to be stretched. Can I do this manually? Or do I need to hire a pro with a winch on a vehicle? Feel free to suggest any tools or ”how-to” videos on this process.

We have already decided how to set the posts.

Thanks!

Below is the view from the back door. The area has not been cleared yet, and the deck railing will be rebuilt and reconfigured so it will look a lot better. The red arrow points to a big tree, and the fencing will be right behind (or in front of) the tree depending on the measurement/lot line. (I have a survey.) You can see that it appears close. It is 50 feet away from the back of the house. There is no development in the woods behind the house, so that foliage will stay intact, though I may manually clear a 10’ wide access area behind, leaving tall trees in place. There is unlikely to be development there in the future anyway. We get a lot of rain here and it is a rural area.



Comments (9)

  • last year

    Thank you. No, the deer probably won’t go in the narrow fenced back yard because they have already been scared away by the dog barking in the front yard when I let her out on leash briefly for a bathroom break. The dog monitors the yard pretty well through the windows.

    The deer have lots of other safe places to go nearby - the woods surrounding the property and the street. I have only seen them in the front yard which will not be fenced, and they were close to the street. I’ve heard that these deer have modified their behavior based on hunter patterns - they know where the hunter’s vehicles park during hunting season days, and avoid those areas until the vehicles leave. They are smart.

    I’m trying to design the fence so that I can repair it quickly and easily if something takes down a part of it.

  • last year

    “Stretching” fence, try a come a long…hand winch.

    kelli_ga thanked A Mat
  • last year

    Black for sure. We used it to line our black picket fence when our dog was small enough to get through the pickets. You can't even see it.

    kelli_ga thanked anj_p
  • last year

    Are the fence runs straight with few ups and downs? Welded wire doesn't stretch very well, especially when it has to adjust to slopes. You can tighten yourself, but if want it taut you'll need to install substantial corner posts and bracing. We have the same fencing, and it's not especially taut, and it looks fine. The black will probably look better.

    kelli_ga thanked Seabornman
  • last year
    last modified: last year

    Thank you. It’s a flat lot. There may be minor ups and downs after it’s cleared. The soil is soft, so I may be able to even it out where necessary. I have 12” stakes to secure the wire to the ground between posts.

    I plan to brace the corner posts with diagonal 4x4s on 2 sides. If I need 6x6 posts, I’ll have to get a pro to install them. The pro I talked to gave me the impression that 6x6s weren’t that much better with regard to ground rot. He did recommend securing the posts with concrete in the corners which would make the posts more prone to rot in this area than a gravel/sand mix, but we did not talk about bracing. I am concerned about rotting posts, which is why I prefer to use 4x4s and no concrete because they are easier for me to replace. I could use post sleeves for the corners at ground level and apply extra preservative. I have a few test posts to install for the porch and mailbox, and I can revise the plan based on what I learn from that.

  • PRO
    last year

    Black, brown, or green will fade into the background much better than silver will. Four foot high can keep your dogs in. But it will not keep deer out- if you have anything tasty in your yard they will hop the fence and go for it.

    Have you considered using post anchors instead of footing them? Not sure if it's a viable option for you or not. But if you haven't considered it, you might want to.

    kelli_ga thanked beesneeds
  • last year

    I looked at post anchors. I think expense was the issue. Or stability in soft soil. This is a long fence.

    When I talked to the local fence pro, we concluded a sand/gravel mix in the hole would be the best option for our yard, with concrete reinforcement in the corners. However I would rather brace the corner posts than use concrete (to avoid rot and replacement issues), so I may try that first. I’m not trying to contain farm animals, though I did watch a video that said you need to brace the corner posts to contain farm animals.

  • last year

    The last fence I built I backfilled with pea gravel I had lying around as the silt coming out of the holes was impossible to work with. It did a good job of firming up the posts. The previous fence I had backfilled with native soil ended up with wobbly posts.

    kelli_ga thanked Seabornman