Paragraph breaks make posts easier to read ...

Dadoes, I agree with you. However, Houzz doesn’t allow me to form paragraphs when I post; I use an iPad. So annoying.

Posting this from an iphone … which is rare, I much prefer the accessibility and facility of a computer.

Testing if a ”return” provides a paragraph break.

Edited via computer moments later ... "return" at the end of a line does add a paragraph break on my iPhone as it does via computer.

Edited again via the phone … to add that I use Firefox on the phone, not Houzz’s app.

Dadoes, I use return, and that doesn’t work- only on Houzz, though I do use the app, so perhaps that’s why. I have the heart of a copy editor, and I care!

klem1 not sure what you meant by "monkeying with them". Both outdoor valves were completely shut and then completely opened during this process. I've done this multiple times in the past (plumbing fixes that required the water mains shut). This is the first time i have seen a decrease in water pressure. I wonder if the back flow valve might be in play. Also..the shut off valves are pretty much brand new (just discovered that during the repair). dadoes I separated my post into two paragraphs if it helps. Cheers.

I'm not as skilled in grammar nor writing as in building trades but I'm capable of reasonable conclusions from what I read. Shedrach the way you described digging for valves in your original post certainly doesn't sound like "I've done this multiple times in the past(plumbing fixes that require the water mains shut)." you said in last post above.

Instigating pizzing contests over writing skill is a new low for you dadoes.

Hi klem1. The reason I had to "dig" for the shut off valves was that the utility company installed the back flow valve in the exact spot where the previous shut off valve had been. I was unaware of this (as I hadn't had to turn the water off in the last couple of years). The new shut off valve(s) were several feet away (in a brand new location) buried under several inches of grass and dirt. When I opened the old box I expected to see the original shut off valve (and not the new back flow valve). That's what I was getting at. I reckon I'll shut off the mains again while opening and closing the faucets in different orders (each time) and see if that helps. I'll make sure the mains are completely open when done. I'll chime in again if I have any success. Cheers.

This isn't about the order of opening valves. You have a restriction in the water line someplace.

Bleeding off air is fine - and opening the valve starting closest to the water source is a general guideline - but air will generally go to the high point - and standard water pressure is enough to overcome most any air in the pipes.

The way to troubleshoot your issue is to start with the shutoffs and the backflow preventors. Photos would be very helpful. The shutoffs should be pretty straightforward, but I'm not clear what was done with the backflow.

See if you have the water flow issue when you turn on the water in your house and then turn on the irrigation spigot. This should indicate if the restriction is at the main shutoff or at the backflow. If the water in your house slows to a trickle when you open the irrigation spigot, the restriction is before where the water branches off to irrigation and indoor water (probably the main shutoff). If the house water doesn't slow significantly, the restriction is at the backflow going into the house.

Let us know - and include photos of the backflow and shutoffs.

Thanks for the info. Will hopefully get a chance to snap a couple of pics tomorrow. I will run the irrigation test and report back when I can. Cheers.

Okay. I ran the irrigation test (I needed to water the front lawn anyway). I turned on the kitchen faucet and turned on the sprinkler. The kitchen water flow did not appear to decrease at all. I've included a couple of photos (one of the shutoff valves and the other of the backflow valve:

The backflow valve is installed on the irrigation line. Is this odd? To double check I closed the irrigation valve and the sprinkler stopped (but house water did not). Closing the main valve shut off everything (obviously). Cheers.

There is nothing odd about backflow prevention in irrigation but none in house supply. What is odd is the device with wires on house supply. The same device on irrigation is a shutoff controlled by irrigation timer,,what controls the one on house? If you can find the control, try switching valve on and off a few times electronically. It might be stuck midway between off and fully open. Also see if main shutoff will turn farthar ccw to a stop.

Hi klem1. The irrigation line goes to a dedicated spigot on the side of the house (vertical pvc pipe with an "L bend" and a regular spigot valve). I only have old fashioned manual sprinkler use (no timers or irrigation system). Basically it is just a separate outside tap. The wires are hooked from each line (from those white cylinders in the shutoff valve hole) to the utility box cover....one for each line and each one monitoring water usage for the utility company/city (at least I'm pretty sure that's what they are there for). Cheers.

Hi @shedrach

Forget about the wires, they are simply remote meter reading transducers so the meter reader doesn't have to open the lid. They go from the meters to the lid.

The test you did indicates that the main waterline and shutoff isn't at fault - and that there's a restriction in the line to the house somewhere.

All the valves appear to be open.

Since all of your water would pass through the water softener, I would try bypassing the water softener just to rule that out. It's an easy test. If you don't have an issue with the softener bypassed, then you have isolated your issue.

If that's not it, do you have a pressure reducing valve at the house by chance? Those typically have a screen in them that gets clogged.

Try bypassing the softener first - then look for a valve, etc that could get clogged with crud.

Cities around here are screwing consumers by not monitoring potable and irrigation consumption separately. It costs far more to treat sewage so it can be released into lakes,streams and rivers than it costs to treat lake/well water to make it fit for consumption. Every drop of water we use gos through one meter and billed as if all will go into sewer system for treatment. About 50% of meters are read from a vehicle driving down street and other 50% are read form offices miles away so we aren't in dark ages of manually reading meters,

Buying or borrowing a pressure gauge will tell you whether problem is wacko pressure control or restriction in flow. If guage reads 60psi static pressure but dramaticly drops when a faucet opens,there's restriction. If static and pressure with flow are both low and unchanging there's a malfunctioning pressure regulator.

Jake I bypassed the water softener and went into the house and turned on multiple taps. Flow was strong. I left the taps open and went back outside and re-opened the water softener and came back inside. Flow was at a trickle. That's where the problem is. I just wonder if cranking closed (and then re-opening) the newly installed main shut off valve sent some crud into the softener intake (or outtake). The softener is scheduled to recharge nightly but I ran a manual recharge this morning (to see if it might flush out some debris). Not sure of the results thus far. The softener is a self contained Eco-Pure unit about 5-6 years old. It is installed outside (inside a weatherproof cabinet). I pour a softener cleaner into the unit (and recharge after) several times a year. No issues at all until the plumbing repair (a few weeks ago). Also...there is no pressure valve that I can find anywhere (unless it is buried underground). Cheers.

Okay, so the issue is at the water softer - forget about anything else that we said could be issues.

Send a photo of the water softener if you don't mind. I'm most interested in the control valve and where the water connects. It's most likely that crud broke loose and gunked up the control valve, as you said. Going through regen may move things around enough to take care of it.

Otherwise you may be looking at a control valve disassembly.