Install an ELFA system inside the reach-in closet to get hanging, shelf and drawer space. Save money by installing it yourself, which isn't hard, but will take a bit of time if you have never used the system before. Similar to assembling something from Ikea, once you know the assembly method, it isn't hard.

4 foot

5 foot

Or if you live where there are Menard's stores, use their Dakota Closet system. Also easy to install, and very flexible. Here is our closet:

This is the system we have from IKEA, it did not cost much at all. We have a "barn door" over the opening. Even thought this is walk in, it could work in your space. You can customize the hanging space, shelves and drawers.

Here's my daughters 10ft closet with the before and the in between and the final using PAX wardrobes. I prefer this as the space becomes so much more usable and can be adjusted inside for each persons preference like a closet organization system. You also save space by not having actual 2x4 walls with drywall in front so you get an extra 3.5+ inches. The extra space we got in my daughter's room made a difference in what furniture she was able to add. And also feels less tight upon entry as the door barely opened past a 90 degree angle into the room. We did gain about 6" due to the space in the existing closet being slightly deeper than the wardrobes.

Using your own doors with the IKEA boxes recessed into an opening is flexible and cost effective. Even lower end doors can be had

Here's a 118" kit of IKEA (shorter 79" height - not sure of your requirements) for $2075. Periodically, I believe they have a PAX storage sale at 10-15% off.

https://www.ikea.com/us/en/p/pax-tyssedal-wardrobe-combination-white-white-s09560959/ .

Build a standard closet, live with it, customize it as needs arise.

Small farmhouse, cottage on an actual farm, modest in scope style closet:

Yeah, I know that's the obvious choice, but something feels "wrong" about it -- it's the width. I think it's that I don't like splitting up the hanging clothes.
Install an ELFA system inside the reach-in closet to get hanging, shelf and drawer space.

I do like Elfa stuff and may use it -- or similar -- inside, but I'm more concerned about getting the doors right.

4 foot ... 5 foot

Yeah, those look realistic for me. I counted ALL my hangers (when everything was clean), and I think I had 44 hanging items. But, again, what I'm mainly thinking about is the doors.
Or if you live where there are Menard's stores

Nope, I've heard of that store on these boards. I don't live near one.

We have a "barn door" over the opening.

I'm not opposed to a barn door; I've looked at some triple-doors and wondered how that would work.

Here's my daughters 10ft closet

I studied these images carefullly ... so you got rid of the two original doors and added closed-door PAX wardrobes. Then "built them in". I'll check the prices, as this is interesting.

Can anyone give me any info on how these age /wear over the years?

THANKS, ALL, FOR YOUR THOUGHTS. I'd love to hear more about doors for wide closets -- doors that wouldn't leave me with deep, dark corners.

The only way that you're getting around $1000 s just popping two sets of doors on it with a shelf and rod inside ... and I still think you're exceeding $1000 unless you're doing the framing youself. You could have it be a single closet with two sets of doors if you want it less divided ... you'd probably still have a little piece of wall between the doors, but nothing within the closet. Avoid sliding doors if possible ... they're annoying because they block half the clothes at a time and are restrictive if you want to add drawers (now or in the future.)

Some may be surprised to hear this from me, but in the addition/remodeling of our home we replaced existing short bi-fold doors with curtains. I was surprised how much I like them, 100% access, no clumsy door movement, quiet, cost effective, and looks good. I would do it in the other closets but the doors were already installed and paid for.

Avoid sliding doors if possible

I grew up with that type of door. I neither hated nor loved it.

we replaced existing short bi-fold doors with curtains.

I had turned that thought over in my mind. How'd you hang the curtains? I'd think ceiling mounted tracks? Did you do two panels that split in the middle?

The curtain rod spans between the door jams. I chose one panel in each four foot wide opening.

(too lazy to go upstairs and take a picture)

I wouldn't do curtains if you have cats or dogs that might get into the closet.

I do not have cats or dogs, or skeletons.

I've had skeletons in my closets ... luckily they were just Halloween props!

This is a clean look but not boring

I removed the wing walls, doors and the top front wall and built in the wardrobes. It gave us at least an extra 6 inches in the room and so much easier access to everything. Before it was hard to access the items on the sides and also the shelves as we have 9 ft ceilings, but there was a lot of wasted space at the top we couldn't use. There are other ways to build a closet to make that space more accessible too. I really like not having the side walls to have to reach around or trying to get to the shelves above the hanging clothes. However, it is much more expensive to go this route than just a simple drywall with doors reach-in closet. My daughters built-in wardrobes are now about 8.5 years old and she isn't easy on things and they look and function like when they were installed.

The only way that you're getting around $1000 s just popping two sets of doors on it with a shelf and rod inside ... and I still think you're exceeding $1000 unless you're doing the framing youself.

I don't follow your math. This is a new build, so I wasn't considering the closet framing and doors as a separate item -- I'll be surprised if they break it down room by room. A single shelf for this closet (according to the Lowe's website) would be under $20 and a shelf would be under $40. Bi-fold doors are $90, and I'd need two.

The curtain rod spans between the door jams. I chose one panel in each four foot wide opening.

I'm seriously considering the curtain idea. I like color and pattern. Google shows me three ways to mount a curtain:

- Inside the frame, as you've done. This seems neat and easy, but probably best for a smaller door, as you have. I'd probably choose curtains with rings to make it easy to swish them back and forth. I could use this method if I divided it into three openings of just over 3' each. And a smaller curtain seems easier to manage ... this could be one shelf closet for each of us + a shared hanging closet.

- Outside the frame. This seems a little more messy because you'd have a glimpse of the clothes behind the curtain -- well, you would in my room, as the closet is located by the bedroom door. It'd matter less if your closet were on the far side of the room.

- Ceiling mounted. This has the same "messy" problem, but it might be more sturdy. I'm thinking that hotels often mount their curtains from the ceiling, so it must be secure.

I found these images:

This is a clean look but not boring

True, but I don't anticipate the louvered doors anywhere elsewhere in the house, and it doesn't fix my can't-get-to-stuff-on-the-far-ends issue.

I have a dog (and will always have a dog), but none of my animals have ever shown an interest in my closet.

I removed the wing walls, doors and the top front wall and built in the wardrobes.

This allows for access to the whole closet /solves the can't-get-to-stuff-on-the-far-ends, which is my biggest concern.

I'm not so concerned about upper-shelf waste. I'm using my upper-closet shelve well right now -- I have rarely-used items stored up there, and I have a stool with which to reach them. I can see that Ikea Pax items would come in under the $1000 goal, but I'd still have to "build them in". I'm thinking about this.

Thanks to ALL for ideas!

You’re looking for a pocket door slider. Each frame slides inside one another to make one door and slides back out to close.

I missed the words "new build" in the first post, my bad. Most closet systems will still exceed $1000 for anything of quality for more than pretty basic for a 10' span.

I missed the words "new build" in the first post, my bad. Most closet systems will still exceed $1000 for anything of quality for more than pretty basic for a 10' span.

No, I've got the guts worked out, and they're nowhere near $1000 -- already have those items. My biggest concern is DOORS /how to avoid dark corners on the edges of the closet.

@Theresa Peterson - I'm assuming that you made a decision re: what to do with your closet by now (since this post was started over four months ago). What did you decide?

I am renovating most of my house - and have decided to include the cosets in the bedrooms. My primary closet is 8' x 18' - so, that will stay as a walk-in closet - just will add new built-in organizer system into the closet (it has some - but is mostly rods with shelves + two small sections of built-in shelves for folded items on each side).

One of my bedrooms has always been a guest bedroom - it is the only bedroom that doesn't have a walk-in closet - it's a good size reach in closet that has two regular doors on it which leaves the sides accessible. The doors need quite a bit of room in front of them to allow for them to swing open - which limits the placement of furniture (there is a queen size bed on the wall opposite the door into the bedroom - but the room seems full with dresser + armoire - this was my nana's bedroom furniture - I need to figure out how I want to move existing furniture around).

If I did a system like Pax (or custom made - but the same style) built-in to the existing opening for the reach in closet, I could remove the dresser (since it would have drawers) + without needing room for the door swing for 2 regular doors, there would be a lot more space.

I'd love to see what you did.