Software
Houzz Logo Print
markay_6746

Planting in dry shade (understory planting)

9 months ago

My front yard has Eastern exposure and several very large trees including a cedar, a huge holly tree that is limbed up (anything that is low enough for telescoping pruners to reach us removed) and a Norway maple.


I am on the coastal plain and my soil is acidic, fast draining and sandy. Tree roots make it next to impossible to dig and the canopy of the holly is so dense that you can shelter under it and stay dry in all but the heaviest of rains, but it is my front yard and I really would like to do something with the space to suppress the Oriental bittersweet, Ivy, poison ivy and other opportunistic plants that like to pop up.


I would like to incorporate natives where viable options exist, and create a (mostly) low growing, naturalized understory and would love suggestions - especially things that will cover ground and suppress weeds without making me totally regret ever planting them.


I have one large boxwood shrub growing in the shade of the maple. I would love to add a couple companion shrubs so it doesn’t look so weird there all by itself.


I have one small raised bed that I had good luck with. It is in a sweet spot that gets a bit more morning light. Raising it up made it posdible to plant and get things established before the tree roots invaded! Things did well there overall, but the bed is small and awkward and I plan to take it out. I know putting dirt in top of tree roots is not great, but searching for pockets in the roots and adding compost and soil moist to planting holes is the only way I’ve had any success!


okay, things I’ve killed…

Azalea

Mahonia

Sweet box

Partridge berry

Hardy begonia

Tiarella

Every heuchera except Heuchera citronelle in the raised bed (they die when planted directly in the ground)

probably many others I’m forgetting.


things surviving, but definitely not thriving…

Hosta

Pulmonaria Raspberry splash

Solomon’s seal.

I had luck with lyre leaf sage for a few years but the it disappeared so maybe short-lived and didn’t reseed.


Things that do ok to great…

Hellebores (they don’t flower in the shadiest spots, but they grow well).

Christmas fern

Marginal Wood fern

painted fern

VA bluebells

Epimediums - they have done very well

Lirope ( They are the best behaved lirope ever and haven’t spread at all)

Wood phlox in spots with more morning sun.

Ruellia caroliniensis (I have it elsewhere and it has popped up at the base of my cedar)

crested iris.


Things I’ve been pondering…

Witch hazel

May apple (it does well in a park across the street but don’t worry - I would never take starts from the park)

Eastern columbine for brighter spots.

Carex (pensylvanica, appalachia or albicans)

Diervilla

Geranium macrorrhizum

Solomons Plume or Starry Solomons Plume (Maianthrmum racemosum or stellatum)

Big leaf aster

White woodland aster

Bergenia


I would love to hear what has worked for you and your thought/suggestions. The sun exposure varies from ”the only thing I’ve seen grow there is ivy” to “it gets a fair bit of morning sun even when the maple leaf out for the summer.” I’m particularly interested in things that you may have had luck growing in the deeper shade.






Comments (31)

  • 9 months ago

    Some pictures of your situation would help>

  • 9 months ago

    The only things I've had luck with in heavy shade are hellebores and geranium macrorrhizum. Pachysandra hasn't done too badly, but it was established before the trees grew.

    Markay MD-Zone 7B thanked mad_gallica (z5 Eastern NY)
  • 9 months ago

    Epimedium will do fine in dry shade.

    Markay MD-Zone 7B thanked callirhoe123
  • 9 months ago

    So here are some pics of the area. The trees on either side of the frame are both holly trees. The Maple is out of frame to the left. I just added the low stone wall and plan to backfill with soil. The mass of foliage in the foreground is the little raised bed.



    Here is the maple. In the back corner by the rain barrel there is yet another holly tree we’ve tried killing repeatedly.


    Here is the weed patch I’m hoping to sort out.




  • 9 months ago
    last modified: 9 months ago

    I know they are not native, but I planted Hellebores under one of my Southern Magnolias, and they are spreading and bloom every year. Ferns can work too. Will post a pic tomorrow.

  • 9 months ago

    Markay, I have a lot of tree roots on my property. I do have some full sun and more part shade than full shade, but a few areas of full sun. I had high hopes when I first started trying to garden here. Unfortunately, I had no idea what I was up against. I’ve tried so many things that were supposed to be good in shade and part shade. When a lot of those failed, I went looking for more ideas and like you, for people with experience with these conditions.

    Here is one of the threads I posted 17 years ago, on dry shade….

    Dry Shade Prairiemoon2 17 years ago

    Here are some more from a search for Dry Shade - that’s what you have when you have a lot of tree roots. Try doing your own search for dry shade and choose the older threads where you might have more responses from old GW members who have more expertise. But you can start with these…

    What can I plant under a tall Hemlock?

    Shrub Recommendations for Dry Shade

    As for my own experiences, I haven’t tried all the things you have, but the Tiarella really didn’t last more than a season or two. Heucheras and Pulmonarias didn’t thrive here either.

    I do well with Solomon’s Seal and Hostas , Hellebores too, Ferns do fairly well, except in July and August if we end up with drought conditions, then I really do have to keep an eye on them and provide enough water. Painted ferns and ‘Ghost’ fern do really well here.

    BUT, you said you have sandy soil and I have clay.

    VABluebells have not done very well for me, but I didn’t give them a good try.

    Wood phlox petered out.

    Epimediums do great for me. And especially when I have gotten those that run instead of clumping.

    One that has surprised me how well it does is Dwarf Solomon’s Seal. It spreads and is pretty happy.

    Snowdrops do very well and are easy to dig into the soil without needed a lot of depth. Very small bulbs

    Hope that helps.

    Markay MD-Zone 7B thanked prairiemoon2 z6b MA
  • 9 months ago

    Under my Hemlocks, I planted Pachysandra, Hakone grass (Japanese forest grass), Pieris and Skimmia japanica.

  • 9 months ago

    Thanks so much for the input!

  • 9 months ago

    Early spring squarely in the root zone of this Silver Maple


    Later in the year. No weeds in here except for trees planted by squirrels, and grass which creeps in from the edges. I cannot succesfully cut an edge on this bed because of the tree roots.


  • 9 months ago

    Heuchera love growing directly on linestone, so your acidic soil is probably the reason your Heuchera have died. The native shrubs Lindera benzoin,(Spicebush) and Dirca palustris(Leatherwood) can grow well in shade. Some Carex species for acidic soil in shade are C. pensylvanica, C. woodii, C. appalachica, C. amphibola and C. blanda. If you have sufficiant light before your trees leaf out you could plant some spring ephemerals like Bloodroot, Bluets, Fringed Bleeding Heart, Dutcheman's Breeches, Squirrel Corn, Trillium, Meadow Rue, False Meadow Rue, Woodland Phlox, Twinleaf, Virginia Waterleaf, etc.

    Goatsbeard, (Aruncus dioica) is an herbaceous perrenial that grows to shrub size.


  • 9 months ago

    G. maccrorrhizum isn't native but is a great plant for dry shade. Epimediums too.

  • 9 months ago
    last modified: 9 months ago

    Great patch of Hellebores, IndianaGGirl! How much sun do you think that patch gets?

    Jay…well that explains why Heuchera doesn’t really do well for me. But I’m more a 6pH, I thought that was neutral. So, where my Lilacs are, I have to add Lime and I wonder if that area would be a good place for Heuchera?

    Carex buchananii does well for me here and it reseeds gently. I think it prefers a little more sun though.

    Speaking of shrubs that grow in shade. I have Cornus racemosa [Gray Dogwood] in mostly shade in the corner with a mature Silver Maple to the South 8ft away and a tall hedge of Taxus and Hollies to the West of it. This shrub took off when I first planted and 3 years later it was huge. It always looks good and it flowers and berries in that low light. The tree roots and the dryness doesn’t seem to bother it. I never need to do anything for it and the birds love the white berries.

    I agree about Ephemerals - I should have really done more. I have Bloodroot and Bleeding Heart one of my favorites. And Lunaria loves my yard right up near the spruce trees in the next yard. Shade and dry and clay soil doesn't bother it at all. It reseeds every year and I leave it alone to do it's own thing. Very pretty and it blooms when white bleeding heart blooms and they look great. I imagine it does better with more sun, some of mine is in 4 hrs of sun, but it also keeps popping up in the shady areas too.

  • 9 months ago

    Asarum canadense & Actaea rubra have done very well in my dry shade between a massive sugar maple and a white walnut. The Actaea seeded itself into that area.

  • 9 months ago

    Oh...thank you Peren.all, I forgot I have the Asarum too. It does do well here, but I have had bad enough drought at some point every season for it to shrivel up and flatten on the ground. It always revives and looks fine after water is restored. I love it's shiny leaves and it spreads nicely.

  • 9 months ago
    last modified: 9 months ago

    Not native but charming, Cyclamen hederifolium.

    Blooming now. Attractive marbled leaves appear after flowers and are evergreen all winter.

  • 9 months ago

    Prairie, it’s fully under the canopy of the maple, so it’s full sun when leaves are off and then shade when leaves are on. Gets some sun when the angle is low, like early morning and late day.

  • 9 months ago

    It looks great @indianagardengirl!

    So many good ideas in this thread. The woods near me have a lot of Spicebush so I will definitely give that more thought. It tends to grow in a sparse, open habit, but it may be worth testing how it would respond to pruning.

    The woods also have lots of holly and laurel. I definitely don’t want to add more holly. I get poked often enough by what I have, but the mountain laurel I have in a different part of the garden has done well and I might add another. I’d like to move the one I have, but I’m afraid it won’t survive as they are notoriously finicky.

    Interesting information about Heuchera @Jay 6a Chicago. I might use some in pots, but won’t be messing with the soil pH around my hollies. Heuchera also need to be divided regularly and I want to minimize digging in tree roots for so many reasons!

    While G. maccrorrhizum is not native, it is pungent and I’m hoping it may deter voles who like to devour the roots off my plants.

    I have a pretty good patch of Asarum canadense on the north side of my house by my AC units where they get lots of water from the condensation line and did not know they could handle dry shade. This is news I can use and I will move some of it this fall to see how it does!

    The local nurseries push Aucuba for dry shade. It is non-native, but would be hardy here especially since the front of the house is very protected, but to my eye it looks unnatural… like plastic plants.

    I love the idea of mixing in ephemerals although I’ve killed a lot of bleeding hearts here (both fringe leaf and old fashioned). I think they prefer a heavier, richer soil than I can offer.

    @prairiemoon2 z6b MA, I bought a gray dogwood at a local native plant sale years ago, but gave it to my mom. Now I am kicking myself for that!

  • 9 months ago

    I LOVE Aucuba japonica, unfortunately, so do the DEER, BIG TIME!!


  • 9 months ago

    @41 North (Zone 7a/b, NE, coastal) although there are plenty if deer around me, they don’t visit my garden. Can you vouch for how Aucuba does in dry shade?

  • 9 months ago
    last modified: 9 months ago

    They are shade tolerant but cannot speak to DRY, DEER love them here as much as Hosta or Euonymus! I can only grow highly TOXIC/POISONOUS or prickly plants here

  • 9 months ago
    last modified: 9 months ago

    North yes, the only plants I do not have to spray with Bobbex are TOXIC/POISONOUS or prickly plants. Coreopsis, Ornamental grasses & Asarum are exceptions. Good thing I like them. Sorry to be off topic.

  • 9 months ago

    I've had good luck with Tiarella cordifolia when I started them from plugs. Not so much from nursery plants. They do need watering the first year. Dicentra Eximia has done pretty well for me, too.


    Starry Solomon's plume really likes organic material. It's been fine for me in the deep, dry shade under my hemlocks and behind my huge copper beech, where the hose doesn't reach --- but only right next to a decaying stump. I imagine in you put plenty of 1-year composted lead mulch, it would do well.


    I have an aster, probably heart-leaf? That is very weedy. I like it because the flowers are pretty and anything that grows there is good. I've also found goats beard does well in dry shade. I've tried woodland phlox, but it tends to die off after a few years.


    I have a big solomon's seal, which I think is native that does well. I have a smaller, Japanese solomon's seal that dies if it's too dry.

    Markay MD-Zone 7B thanked Sigrid
  • 9 months ago

    @Sigrid Thank you! This information is very helpful. Unfortunately, despite the trees and leaf fall, I do not have rich organic layer that a lot of native woodland plants want and need, and this is a reality check I needed. I was out this morning observing the sun patterns and when I take pathways into account there is less of the very deep shade than I thought!

  • 9 months ago
    last modified: 9 months ago

    IndianaGGirl - Well, I probably have some Hellebores in that amount of exposure. Sometimes I feel like mine are not getting as large as I would have expected. I have clay soil with a pH of 6. I’ve blamed it on tree roots, but yours have tree roots to deal with, so I guess it’s not that. BTW, do you watch Indiana Fever?

    Markay, I have a Spicebush in a lot of shade in the drip line of a 50 yr old Silver Maple and it also has light blocked from a large Gray Dogwood and it’s doing nothing.

    If you have Mountain Laurel that does well for you, there are a number of nice new cultivars too. It doesn’t do well for me for some odd reason.

    Heucheras - no, Hollies need acid. I only have one area where I could and actually need to adjust the pH and that is where my Lilacs are.

    Bleeding Heart - they grow well for me here, but some critter has eaten just about every one of my pink Bleeding Hearts and strangely never touches the white. [g]

    Gray Dogwood - well if you have a local native nursery, try another one in the spring. The great thing is you can buy a small one because they grow so fast.

  • 9 months ago

    Markay - If you are short on an organic layer, I buy Coast of Maine Castine blend which has been very useful. Not cheap but I try to make it last.

    Less deep shade is good, right?

  • 9 months ago
    last modified: 9 months ago

    "Hollies need acid."

    Ilex aquifolium and its cultivars grow happily on slightly alkaline and neutral soils.

    Besides, Markay already has holly growing well. .

  • 9 months ago

    Floral - I was just agreeing with Markay that I also would not adjust the pH near his Hollies in order to grow Heuchera better. We were talking about raising the pH for the Heucheras.

    Yes, I have blue Hollies that grow fine in pH 6, but one of them often starts having yellowing leaves and dropping them. This doesn't happen if I add Hollytone.

  • 9 months ago
    last modified: 9 months ago

    Right, I get it. No cater to the shrubs not the Heucheras.

    The blue bulb is Scilla diabetics.

  • 9 months ago

    I thought of a few more. Aralia racemosa does well for me in dry soil and deep shade. Geranium maculatum, and Sweet Cicely, Osmorhiza claytonia and Osmorhiza longistylis. They have a ferny look, but are in the carrot family. Clearweed, Pilea pumila and Enchanter's Nightshade, Circaea canadensis make great groundcovers, and they won't bother larger plants. They are both annuals that can be controlled by deadheading. My Wood Poppies, Stylophorum diphyllum do well in dry shade too. There are some nice native Lysimachia species that are also great for shade. I only need to water these plants when there are long droughts.

  • 21 days ago

    Jay I would love to see photos of the Perennials you mentioned that do well in dry soil. Especially any that do well in deep shade.