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toilet flange repair need to chose a filler.

last month
last modified: last month

Need help chosing what to use to fill around a drain pipe in a bathroom floor.

Pulled up the toilet expecting to just put in new bolts and a seal. What i found was that the original pvc pipe was sitting in a hole that was 6 inches in diameter and offset to one side almost 2 inches. The flange was pretty badly rusted and in a couple spots had to be broken out of what it had been set on and whatever they used in the large gap area just fell away. The toilet was set on porcelin tile on 3/4 cement board on 3/4 plywood subfloor. I can get under it and close up the too large of a hole in the subfloor from below. I want fill the gap around the drain pipe after that and hope that there is a concrete mix i can use to fill the gap up to level(no more than 2inches deep by 2inches wide on one side by 2inches deep and less than 3/4 wide on the other side, and once set i can place the repair flange around the pipe and use tap cons to screw it down. I know i will need to wet the area before i pour in the concrete compound. I also plan to put a plastic bag over the pipe so it wont be adhered to any filler when done; I can cut the bag around the top after placing the filler so that i can install the repair ring. What is my best choice for the concrete compound? Any suggestions as to what else i should consider.

Comments (5)

  • last month

    Pictures may help.

  • last month

    Above and below. Part of the flange still in place when taken. The grey is a bit of plastic bag stuffed in the hole until i return to repair.



  • last month

    Hi, you may want to consider spray foam to fill the hole.

    • Good Luck, Woodbutcher
  • last month

    What a mess, that offset is intended for use in concrete slab or where there's no access from below to offset line BEFORE it reaches floor, then in emergency only.

    Two things concern me. #1 Distance between rough plumbing and floor surface. Will a wax ring seal that gap? #2 Diameter of pvc flange. It looks to be as big or bigger than a mounting flange, therefore should have tee slots for toilet bolts eliminating need for additional hold down flange.

    When it comes to masonry products I prefer telling folks to look at and read labels on products to choose one best suited to each project. If I suggest specific product it might not be offered at your retailer but they have others equally suitable. It needs to be slow drying thin-set type. Your mention of Tapcon screws causes me to question your approach to project. I don't believe anything you can use to fill void is sufficient for using Tapcons anchoring toilet flange. I suggest overlaying floor from below with 3/8"-3/4" plywood butting tight to pipe then use long, flathead machine screws for securing flange to new plywood.


  • last month

    I thought i had posted a reply yesterday but i dont see it here. The original drain pipe had a metal flange that fit into a groove around the floor end. That had mostly rotted away and needed to be broken out. I can install a two piece metal replacement flange or install this if i cut the business end back a bit so it sits just about floor level.. I have a plywood "collar " i have made to close the hole from underneath. I will screw that up into place from below and use a plastic bag as a condom around the pipe to keep the mortar from adhereing to the pipe in case future work is needed. This is much more costly $36 vs about $8. I plan to fill the gap area with Rapid Set Mortar mix, wetting down the cement board and plywood before pouring it in. will set the hold down screws into the mortar mix before it is set i hope. otherwise i need to drill some pilot holes before installing the screws. Once its set we can install the toilet.


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