I would probably set up the table and chairs and then tape out or use cardboard to layout the console to get a sense of it. I really need to see things in real life though.

Table best as you show in sketch. An 18” deep console makes it tight on that side of table. Push back for chairs and transportation is tight. I would go for 12-15” deep console. How often would you have more than 8-10 people sitting down for meal? I don’t see how 96” long table would work. I might consider a different finish other than another brown in the room for the console. Might want to post your chairs so we see all the main elements. Art would be best over console that way it can be seen by guests in DR and from living room too. Or large mirror to reflect art a ross the room. I prefer art in dining rooms.

Looks like the layout plan posted above was drawn by Jan Moyer.

Will you post a photo of the table and chairs?

Hey, OP, what's going on here? You posted the same dilemma 9 months ago and now, in this new post, you use a drawing by Jan Moyer and do not give her credit for it?

Why didn't you stick with the original post? Not happy with all the help you received?

BTW, those are not console tables.

Here is the original thread: https://www.houzz.com/discussions/6481263/what-is-the-most-appropriate-shape-and-size-of-a-dining-table-to-use

Lol...good catch guys!

No they aren't console tables, and you get the best answer, (at least from me), the FIRST time, just as I would give a paying client.

You don't use screen shots for sketches, as those of us who are pros, will not bother to finger spread : ) Most of us are at least on a lap top and more often a desk top.

The sketch didn't lie

Your route to the living room is circuitous around the table, you bought a foot longer fixed size ( 96) ? and made it more so.

The 18 x 84 sideboard /console was that size for a reason as well..... and its' snug but once seated nobody dies. This is common because a light is always center on the room and you eye will fight a table not centered on the light.

Nine months ago I said...........( regarding the round table concept)

"134 minus 60 is 74 inches. Divided by 2 SIDES is 37 inches. Probably zero ROOM FOR CONVENIENT serving unless at the window end of the room,

Versus a 42 in wide table, rectangle and better shape for the room....will leave 46 inches each side.

Keep the serve to no more than 18 inches deep. when chairs are tucked under? You still will have nearly 30 inches to pass by....and beyond that.....

Unless this is daily dining? Not worth the hand wring"

Ps......with 18" useful dept on a console, you will have 32" , not 30, as your new table is 40" not 42.

@Flo Mangan Thanks you for your recommendations! We currently only have 3 people living in the house. My daughter may visit once a month. We don’t host party often. The current chairs we have are black frame with greige fabric on seats. But we may change them later. I am doing them piece by piece. I know it is not the best practice, but I don’t feel I have the energy to finish everything at once.

@JUDY GRAHAM If you take a closer look to those two posts, you will know they are totally different questions. I didn’t use the drawings from Jan anywhere else.

Jan - I didn't see the other thread - I've just seen so many of your layouts that I recognized your handwriting + the way you draw furniture.

Also, I've seen your "Art!!" notation in the margin several times before on other layouts!

^^

Re Energy

Flo Mangan gave you nearly identical advice to my nine month OLD^^ advice.......Your/My sketch.

You have a lot of remodel going on, maybe design fatigue. Perhaps a decorating pause in order for a while.

A@ Dani

I said WHAAAAT???? when I saw it - that rings a BELL!

@JAN MOYER What I remembered is that the position of the cabinet could be either one of the two I mentioned in the original post. I saved the drawing for my own reference. If you don't like it, I will delete it from my end.

@JAN MOYER I just happened to get this table when there was a great sale. I thought I could go for 96” maximum. If we center the table to the light, the light will not be centered to the ceiling in both situations, right?

We didn’t install the light yet. We could center it to the table.

Why not show the table set up with your chairs?

Just because something is on a great sale, doesn’t mean it works in your space. I did not see your original post so posting Jan’s sketch was not cool without giving proper credit. If possible to return that table, or exchange i highly recommend doing so. It doesn’t fit your space or your needs. I would think about a round table that could expand and make this room “multi-purpose”. 52” round that expands to 60” would likely seat 6, depending on chair seat widths. Perhaps a library/dining space. You decide what you need. Make it worth using.

Here are a few inspirational multi purpose rooms.

Here are a few pictures.

Sorry for the duplicates. Houzz is acting up. You would think a company reliant on technology and in the computer mecca of the country, could fix this unfriendly software suite. Guess not.

@Flo Mangan Thank you for those pictures! I did consider the round table, but I ruled it out because the biggest round table I can have will only fit 6 seats, comparing to 8-10 seats. If I use a rectangle table, is 96” really too long for my room? May I ask the reasons? It looks ok to me in plan A or B, so I am confused. 😂

Here is scale drawing with 40” x 96” table. The major issue i see is “transportation” thru the dining to living room. (From kitchen?). Sorry the lighting on the drawing is bad. Several questions. Will chairs slide 90% under table or does table have deep apron? For transportation, a pair of corner cabinets would provide easier transportation. Tomorrow, i will do Option 2 if an expandable round table is an option. Let me know. Chairs must be kept to small scale but not so small the size of table overwhelms. I would hold off on rug until final table and chair decisions are made. Notice i placed one host chair over in far corner. For everyday, this makes transportation much easier. If you keep this table, i would use a linear chandelier to repeat shape of table. From experience i know a round table that has leafs, becomes an oval table. It would work so much better for this room. better and preserve this room for possible multi use. Teal estT

I don’t know what’s going on with Houzz. Crazy postings. Maybe it will get fixed over night!

The table is very similar to this one, so all the chairs can go underneath the table.

The dining room is connected to the kitchen on the right and a second living room on the left. The door on the left is not the only door to this room. So the traffic between these two doors are not heavy.

Please show your option 2 tomorrow. I’d love to keep in mind all other options! Thank you!

IMO longer lower one for sure and 16.5 " walkway is useless so plan B is the only choice but neither allow room for a buffet on the short wall so the table needs to slide over to one side or the other to even beginn to add a buffet type cabinet and probably more a long lower console type piece not very deep

@Patricia Colwell Consulting The walkway is not 16.5”. It is 16.5”+29”=45.5”. Two sideboards in the post are 13.5” and 15” deep.

Again, put the table in the room. Put the chairs at it. Take some pictures. Walk around and see what it is really like.

I revised Option 1 showing a 9x12 rug. This is shown with dotted line. I think this would help moderate size of table and create walking space where you stay on the rug. I put a linear chandelier over the table. This will repeat shape of the table and look pleasing from all angles. And depending on where your electrician can place the junction box a linear with large ceiling plate can hide most issues. .option 2 shows how an expandable round table creates an oval for special occasions. When closed it fits your room very nicely. I put a 48” round that expands
To about 72-74” depending on sizes of leafs. With this design you could place a pair of buffets 36” long by 15” deep and put art on wall with door to the kitchen. I also placed a 60” table and chairs to show that relative size.

The reason a 96” long table isn’t recommended for this space is due to how it limits walking space and will visually dominate the room which will not be comfortable. I like to have 36” walkway space if possible. Another feature you have is bulky straight corner legs. This adds to the visual bulk of the table. Given you only have a few people living in the home, it isn’t necessary. Plus, aside from Thanksgiving type meal, most people when entertaining larger gatherings tend to do buffet type eating or outside BBQ settings. Other than compact corner cabinets or narrow 36” x 12-15” deep buffet tyoe units a large buffet won’t be wise in this fairly small dining room with two entry exit points. Btw, are there windows on the short wall?

@Flo Mangan Thank you so much for those scathes! I had a 36x72” table there before. It looked a little small in the room, so I thought I need to change to a bigger table. I really like oval shape table. I think you are right that the four bulky legs do add bulkiness to the table. I love the table with four legs at corners because I thought that is the most convenient type of table avoiding chairs to be interrupted with table legs. For round extendable table, when we don’t extend it, is it too small for the room?

I am always moving stuff around based on needs of the times. If you add interesting chairs and add a plant or two it will be fine. Much rather have a less is more feeling than stuffed to the gills. I would probably put one of my reading chairs in that far right corner with a small table for a tea and a floor reading lamp to create a cozy corner. Up to you. Extra chairs are always fun and useful too. Pedestal tables keep things visually open too. So many great options out there.