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Newly installed white oak wood floors are cracked

5 days ago
last modified: 5 days ago

I live in a condo building. In the last 2 months I had installed 5 inch-wide unfished engineered wood floors (water-stained) throughout the 1400 square foot condo by a flooring contractor. The first few weeks I was euphoric until a week ago. In the last 7 days I already have 27 cracks going length-wise in the planks . Some cracks are 5-9 inches but many of them are over 12 inches. When I hear a popping/cracking noise, I go on the hunt for the cracks. I found 2 under my bed. They are in the hallways. In the kitchen. In the dining area. In the living room. In some places when I walk on the planks I can hear the floor making a very subtle crackly sound. I look down and nothing is cracked there yet. The beautiful color overall is medium to lighter shades. A few of the planks I have noticed are getting much lighter in color too (very blonde). The cracks are devastating. I have heard humidity should be a certain level and I might be short there. But my entire building has wood floors, as I did previously too, and no one including myself has ever complained about cracked wood floors. Do you think the wood is defective? How common is this? Thanks for sharing comments and guidance.

Comments (33)

  • 5 days ago

    Call the flooring contractor to inspect the floor. Check your agreement with the contractor for the warranty.

    Sally Mulberry thanked Design Fan (NE z7a)
  • PRO
    5 days ago

    You CALL the installer back.! What is the sub floor? The cracks are lengthwise, parallel to board length. Sounds like the wood is expanding with nowhere to go.

    We have no idea the engineered product you used.....no idea the reputation of the installer. We have no idea if your subfloor was LEVEL.

    Common Causes of Splits and Cracks

    • Low Relative Humidity: During winter or in dry climates, wood loses moisture and shrinks, causing gaps or cracks.
    • High Humidity/Moisture: High humidity or damp crawlspaces cause boards to swell and press against each other, leading to crowning or splitting.
    • Improper Installation: Failure to allow for adequate expansion gaps or installing in improper moisture conditions.
    • Mechanical Damage: Improper fastening, overdriven nails, or damage during transport/installation.


    Sally Mulberry thanked JAN MOYER
  • PRO
    4 days ago

    Call NOW this is a big issue and needs to be addressed NOW. As Jan pointed out there is no way for us to know what the issue is . Sure hope you had at least awarranty of some kind and I guess I have to ask did the floor come from the same company as the installer worked for ?

    Sally Mulberry thanked Patricia Colwell Consulting
  • 4 days ago

    Any settling elsewhere in and around your condo building? Has to be ask if you are in an older Miami condo near the water, after the Surfside collapse in 2021.

    Sally Mulberry thanked chispa
  • 4 days ago

    Note last point as well. Did this take place?




    Sally Mulberry thanked Maureen
  • 4 days ago
    last modified: 4 days ago

    Thanks so much for the comments back so far. I live on the East Coast and it's winter. The installer came to inspect yesterday. They are coming back next week with the mill representative so no, the wood did not come from the installer's company. This was initially a commercial building and transformed into a condo building about 20 years ago; so everyone has either 20-year old wood floors or newer ones like myself. The wood was installed in my condo on the same day it was delivered. I have to believe the wood had been sitting in some cold warehouse beforehand. I would think that there are too many cracks to repair the floor at this point and a whole new floor needs to be put down.

  • 4 days ago

    Buy a couple of humidity gauges, too. Less than $10 each.

    Sally Mulberry thanked apple_pie_order
  • PRO
    3 days ago

    My guess. High moisture content in the veneer at the time of the install. Excessive low humidity afterwards. It's drying out, also called face checking.

  • PRO
    3 days ago

    The fact that is was nor acclimated tells me right away the installer company were hacks . Good luck but this will be a long bout of who did what.

    Sally Mulberry thanked Patricia Colwell Consulting
  • 3 days ago

    Thank you so much for taking the time to give me your opinion.

  • 3 days ago
    last modified: 3 days ago

    Was this floor put on top of a properly prepped subfloor, or over some other flooring that existed before? Were the baseboards removed, so that the proper expansion joint could be done, and then baseboards put back on, when the floor was all finished?

    Sally Mulberry thanked cat_ky
  • 3 days ago

    Ugh, I feel so bad for you. That's all. 😒

    Sally Mulberry thanked tozmo1
  • 3 days ago

    Don’t let them steamroll you on this. Flooring should have been jn your home for days before install.

    Sally Mulberry thanked WestCoast Hopeful
  • 3 days ago

    The engineered flooring was unfinished when installed. Then water stain was used. Then water based sealer and finish coats. A number of correct procedures from the different manufacturers needed to be followed. Which products were involved?

    Sally Mulberry thanked dan1888
  • PRO
    3 days ago
    last modified: 3 days ago

    How about posting some pictures? It could have been cracked prior to installation. The installers just missed it and it slipped by. You're seeing the cracks now because of low humidity.

    Sally Mulberry thanked G & S Floor Service
  • PRO
    3 days ago

    Any wood flooring installer should know to let flooring acclimate to the environment it's going into.

    Sally Mulberry thanked Norwood Architects
  • PRO
    2 days ago

    No moisture readings were taken of the material or the subfloor?

    Sally Mulberry thanked McDonald Enterprises
  • 2 days ago

    A lot of nonsense offered here, but a few people have this right. Without pictures and information, engaging in conjecture is likely to add confusion rather than yielding some real insight. Pertinent data would include material specification, adhesive(s), underlayment(s), surface finish, install dates, finish dates, occupancy date, specific location, indoor and outdoor temperature and humidity data from the time the floor was installed until now. Pictures are also paramount. Are you experiencing normal seasonal gapping, of are your boards actually cracked?

    Sally Mulberry thanked Timothy Winzell
  • PRO
    yesterday

    This could be the same job on Reddit with pictures. "Under the bed was a good clue"


    https://www.reddit.com/r/HardWoodFloors/comments/1qsg3mo/cracking_white_oak_engineered_wood_floors/

    Sally Mulberry thanked Uptown Floors
  • yesterday

    Yes, those are the pics on Reddit. Didn't know how to attach them here. I would need to find out adhesive info, underlayments, surface finish etc. Thank you everyone.

  • PRO
    yesterday

    It's an issue with drying out (low humidity). I agree with Timothy about "alot of nonsense." Reddit is worse. Lot's of folks with basic information, repeated. 'Experts' after doing their first floor. Some just plain bored gardeners or whatever gabbing away. Finish has nothing to do with it.


    Those with with industry experience day in and day out can spot an issue without doubts when it comes to lack of or excessive moisture in the environment.

    Sally Mulberry thanked Uptown Floors
  • yesterday

    Surely everyone doesn't have humidity all the time between 30-50%. I'd say a good part of the USA experiences winter. So then why is white oak so prevalent? Every flooring store you go visit is selling white oak floors. Ugggh..... Most of the cracking so far happened within a 7 day timeframe last week (about 7-8 weeks after install) very likely when I turned up my heat to about 70 . I might have had my place more around 67 before that.

  • PRO
    yesterday

    People spend the money to add and subtract humidity with their HVAC. A humidifier in winter is a requirement. Using your AC +- a dehumidifier in summer is a requirement. If you want a warranty with any wood anything, that is. Don't do it, and there's no warranty. Your furniture. Your cabinets. Your floors. 35-55% is where it should be. Yes, lots of people don't fully condition their home. And they have issues. Issues that no manufacturer covers.

    Sally Mulberry thanked Minardi
  • yesterday

    A few pros in the comments I sure wouldn’t hire based on their condescending remarks.

    Sally Mulberry thanked WestCoast Hopeful
  • PRO
    yesterday


    Cold, drafty basements allow in dry air. Then you crank up the heat to combat the cold air causing more dry air. If, you have a drafty house. You will not be able to maintain a humidity level between 30-50%. You would need to address the underlying issues causing the drafts.

    Wood rot or gaps at corners, soffits, rim joist, windows, doors, outlets, etc. would all need to be fixed and sealed. Your attic probably has a big leak. Stabilize humidity level and you will minimize the expanding and contracting.

  • yesterday

    " Surely everyone doesn't have humidity all the time between 30-50% "


    You need to at least make a solid effort which is where the HVAC system comes in. The other issue is we have no idea what the moisture content was of the subfloor before the wood was installed. The mositure content of the wood when is was delivered and when it was installed. Typically the moisuture content needs to be very close in both the subfloor AND the new wood before install, that is called acclimating the wood. The cracks you are showing definitely appear to me at least to be the wood drying out.

  • PRO
    22 hours ago

    " " Surely everyone doesn't have humidity all the time between 30-50% "


    Yeah, they do at least monitor, and TRY to, or they resign themselves with wood shrinking a whole lot in winter. You know why old solid wide plank floors have that 1/4" gap between them? They move that much. They expanded in the summer, created edge crush, so that a gap was always there. Then, they shrank in winter, for an even bigger gap. That gap is permanent, unless filled with oakum.



    That low humidity can split or pop off a veneer from the substrate in cabinets, or floors. OR crack solid wood. You're tripping over your own feet in the way to not have portable humidifiers running in the winter, until you can get your HVAC sorted out. No anyone will do anything about any problem, without modulated indoor humidity. It's all on you.




    Same with summer. If you are someone in a humid area, you use your AC, an you monitor the humidity with a $9 hygrometer, year round. A lot of air conditioners aren't good with little temperature delta between inside and outside. They don't run long enough to pull out the humidity in the air. So for milder temperatures and mornings, sometimes you may need to run an actual dehumidifier too. If the humdity isn't controlled, the floors expand, and if they expand enough, they can tent.




    Humidity control is basic home care and maintenance, even if you don't think so.

  • 22 hours ago

    If someone is unaware of the humidity in their home and has hardwood floors there is a decent chance that their home humidity control is fairly stable and that is why they don’t worry abojt it.

  • 18 hours ago

    @Sally Mulberry I keep the humidity in my home between 30-50% at all times. Actually more like 40-50%. I have white oak site finished floors. I use a dehumidifier in the summer and humidifier in the winter. If I did not the main level of my house would have a humidity in the mid to upper 50% during the summer and below 30% in the winter. We have very humid summers and very dry winters and my home is a log cabin so it is leaky.


    It was winter time when we first moved in our house and I started noticing the gaps between some boards were widening. I bought a hygrometer to see what was going on with humidity. It was below 30%. I bought a humidifier and try and keep humidity no lower than 40% and this helped close the gaps in the boards. In the summer the boards would swell and you could see slight crowning. A dehumidifier helped with this.

  • 15 hours ago

    I thought I'd add screenshots of the photos posted by OP on Reddit here on Op's Houzz post:






    Here is the opinion provided on Reddit:






  • PRO
    12 hours ago
    last modified: 1 hour ago

    Cracked boards will slip through during installation with wide planks. You try and catch it and apply some Titebond 2 or 3 to keep it together.

    These gaps will close up when humidity goes back up.

    My house, I would leave it. The sand and finish looks like it is done well. Any fixes will be patchy, unless , you're prepared to do a complete rework.

  • PRO
    3 hours ago
    last modified: 3 hours ago

    This is not hideous as above, and probably disappears with more moisture in the air, however that shall occur,

    For many hundred of years, humans have walked on imperfect wood floor, nary a glance at the surface beneath their feet.

    In recent times, we've begun to treat any variety of wood flooring, any species, engineered or sand on site, and even fake wood/LVP as if it were the only element in a room.

    I'm not dismissing importance of install, stain color, proper maintenance, but as with any new thing that enters our lives, there comes a moment when the new morphs to it is just there. No different than a new auto , its new scent, and yes.... eventually the very imperfect crumbs and refuse from snacks, or normal enter and exit from the vehicle.

    lol......"Your husband is sooooooo handsome! "

    .........................."Him?! ?! Yeah, I guess he is.: )" Wallpaper effect....

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