I like Zinsser products haven't found one that didn't work as intended. I used Zinsser 123 in my bathroom.

If I was going to spend top dollar for BM Aura, I would use BM primer.

IMO, BM paints give a nicer finish than "comparable" SW paints (i.e., Aura is one of the top BM paints, not sure what the SW comparable is.)

I don't know that BM primer is better than Zinsser. I do like BM paint, but have found that when I need a specialty primer Zinsser always seems to be the most highly rated or the only one that does the job. Zinsser Guard is the best for sealing wall paper glue residue ensuring that you get no yellowing. Zinsser BIN is the only thing I trust to cover wood where tannin is bleeding through. Since they seem to specialize in quality primers I choose their products over the companies who specialize in paint.

@Jennifer Hogan, I have also used Zinsser products.

"Best practices" in the paint industry is to use the same brand for compatibility.

Given that Aura Bath is somewhat of a specialty product, if it were me, I'd use a BM primer just in case.

I don't remember off hand the difference between primers for new drywall, but if not sealed correctly, the paint could absorb "unevenly".

A good BM dealer will know what to recommend as long as the OP tells them it's NEW drywall.

My favorite primer is INSUL X STIX (now owned by BM) - runs about $100+/gallon.

But it's way overkill for priming new drywall.

@coastal_vibe, just curious why you'd use a satin finish on bathroom walls?

BM Aura will be just as easy to clean in the matte or eggshell finish.

I am undecided whether I will do all the painting, hire a professional painter, or do just the first coat of primer and hire a pro for painting. I want one coat of primer on the walls and ceiling after drywall but before tile work. Paint can be applied after tiling is complete -- about a week later.

I am serving as the GC on the project (Owner-Builder), and I want to keep the project moving along, even if it means that I spend a Sunday with a ladder and paint roller.

I am getting a quote from a professional, licensed painter whom I have used previously. I asked him to use BM Aura Bath&Spa on a different bathroom last year, but he chose SW with satin finish, as that is his preference. He has offered to bid on all of it, including applying the first coat of primer; he would use the oil-based primer Zinsser Cover Stain. (I do not think I could handle the fumes if doing this myself.)

I have a quote from another professional painter and plan to ask him what products he would use for paint. I had another quote, which specifically stated Dunn Edwards primer and paint.

I use oil or shilac based primers when needed for their stain blocking properties, but water based is more appropriate for new drywall.

I do all my own painting - I'm OCD on the details. BUT if I did hire a painter and spec'd BM, and they substituted SW, I'd send them on their way, without paying them.

(Maybe I'm misunderstanding, and the painter ok'd it with you ahead of time.)

Dunn Edwards is very nice paint - similar in quality and market share to Pratt & Lambert.

Not anywhere near the color selection of BM though.

What is the reason for the oil-based primer?

I prefer zinsser primer over other primers too. Water based works great over new sheetrock.

I also prefer satin, or even semi gloss paint for kitchens and bathrooms, and I dislike matte anywhere. I have one ceiling done with matte, and I hate it. Once it warms up, that ceiling will be redone, in a nice flat white. I do all my own painting and always have.

I sometimes think we go a bit overboard in what must be used.

In all honesty, I don't think most people would notice a difference if you painted the interior of one house with BM Aura and the interior of another with HD Ultra.

I generally stick to BM or SW and use one of their better paints (Aura or Regal Select / Emerald or Duration), but lots of painters use much lower quality lines and many owners don't know or care.

When you really start noticing the difference is when you go to clean a wall and find the paint coming off on the rag as you wipe. This will not happen using mild soap and water on any of the better lines.

With Primers on new dry wall as long as the drywall is sealed by the primer and you don't get different levels of sheen because some areas are absorbing more paint than other areas it has done it's job. If you are trying to seal specific stains that are bleeding through your paint you need the primer to seal that stain. Permanent marker will bleed through a shellac based primer, but not a water based primer or oil based primer. Tannins can bleed through oil or water based primers, but won't bleed through shellac. When trying to cover old wallpaper glue that had absorbed into the plaster walls I had to try multiple primers till I found one that worked (Guardz) which is water based, but somehow created a film over the glue and stopped the yellow bleed through.

When choosing your paint ask yourself which of your friends homes were painted with Aura and which were painted with Regal Select or Duration or Emerald. If you weren't part of the selection process and don't know because they told you which paint they used, you obviously can't see enough difference to ever notice a difference.

Jennifer has done an excellent job explaining primers and topcoats. Especially the washabilty difference between premium lines and paints (or not).

My DILs are all fans of SW paint - I think it's mostly from the fact that at some point SW got the Pottery Barn contract.

I convinced one of them (who has 5 children) to try Benjamin Moore's Scuff X line.

She was AMAZED at the difference in application, plus how much better it stands up to the day to day wear & tear, plus cleaning in a very busy household!

Example: BM Scuff X compared to SW Scuff Tuff, BM uses a higher percentage and quality of "solids" in their formula. This is true for all of their comparable lines (BM Aura to SW Emerald),etc.

I do all my own painting - it's time consuming and for some things (12 ft ceilings), quite labor intensive. Paying a little more for the best quality paint is a no brainer.

"Which water-based primer would you recommend for new drywall"

Drywall requires a PVA drywall primer such as Kilz PVA Drywall Primer or HGTV Home SW PVA Drywall Primer.

Buy The RIGHT Primer (video)

I spend a fair amount of time on the site:

painttalk.com

It's for pros, so I'm only able to search and read, but the discussions are enlightening.

It's good to know not just the "what", but also the "why" behind things.

That being said, the general consensus between pros that post there, is that most PVA primers are used in new construction homes or office buildings where quality is NOT a concern.

If you're paying for a high quality paint, you don't want to cheap out on the prep work.

Mary Elizabeth: "the general consensus between pros that post there, is that most PVA primers are used in new construction homes or office buildings where quality is NOT a concern."

Paint manufacturers including Benjamin Moore and Sherwin-Williams sell PVA primer for new drywall. USG Sheetrock offers one for its own drywall. If PVA primers such as Kilz, HGTV Home SW, and Zinsser are not the appropriate primer for new drywall, what is?

@wdccruise, I'm not a pro. But my husband & I are serious DIYer's with years of experience.

There is a market for almost every "level" of product. The rows and rows of new homes being constructed are NOT concerned about quality. They're concerned about meeting the very minimum standards of "building codes", and PROFIT. PVA primers are good enough for them.

The paint lines I use from BM are anywhere from $90 to $110 per gallon right now. I'm not going to "cheap out" on the primer. Example: If use a Zinsser primer, and the Aura wall paint flashes, BM is NOT going to stand behind their paint.

I understood the OP's post to be more concerned about quality, so my initial advice still stands - "use the same brand and what they recommend".

Mary Elizabeth: "I'm not going to "cheap out" on the primer"

So for new drywall you wouldn't use acrylic Zinsser PVA primer/sealer, "an interior water-base primer formulated for sealing new drywall" or acrylic Kilz PVA, an "interior water-based primer formulated to prime and seal new, uncoated drywall" but you'd use Benjamin Moore Drywall Primer, "An acrylic primer for interior use on new or previously painted drywall" because the BM 380 is $23 (aka not cheap) while the Kilz and Zinsser are $15-16 (cheap)?

Jennifer Hogan: "Some don't prime new drywall at all, most do."

That is a mistake because if the drywall isn't sealed it will absorb the topcoat.

"Most seem to shy away from the PVA primers and go for an all purpose primer."

Why would anyone do that for new drywall?

"I use Zinsser 123 for the walls that were not wallpapered. I am using Gardz on the walls that were previously wall papered."

These are previously-covered surfaces, not new drywall.

"I am using BM Regal Select for my walls and Advance for my doors and trim."

The subject of this article was new-drywall primer, not topcoat.

Sorry you don't like what I have read on the paint talk site. Here is a link to one of may such posts

https://www.painttalk.com/threads/new-construction-drywall-questions.46770/

Sorry that you don't like that I shared what I am using and on which types of surfaces. It may help the OP decide based on what level finish she expects. Getting level 5 drywall - you may want to be fussier than with a level 4 drywall finish.

Some people feel the need to drive a BMW or Mercedes, some aren't satisfied with driving anything less than a Bugatti. I drive a Toyota. I still get across town in the same amount of time as the other guys.

You have to know what level of luxury is needed to make you happy. If I were paying for walls finished in Fine Paints of Europe high gloss I sure wouldn't be using anything other than their recommended primer and following their instructions on how to seal the drywall, but I won't ever be using their paint or driving a Bugatti.

@Jennifer Hogan, a little off topic, but if you're not happy with Advance, I would suggest Scuff X (satin or semi) for trim work.

When trimming a ceiling I think I do the opposite of you. I paint the ceiling first and then the walls. I give the wall paint at least 72 hours or longer dry time.

Then I tape off a perfectly straight line about 1/8" down on the wall with Yellow Frog Tape (be sure to seal the edge).

Then I run a brush with ceiling paint above the tape. Remove tape promptly.

It's the STRAIGHT line that fools the eye - whether on the wall or the ceiling.

Jennifer Hogan: "Here's a link to many such posts": https://www.painttalk.com/threads/new-construction-drywall-questions.46770/

Boco: "Level 4 job is getting a pva primer? You should upgrade to a primer/sealer with some body (high solids)."

Well, let's see:

• Kilz: 27% solids by volume
• Zinsser: 27.4%
• Sherwin-Williams: 19%
• Benjamin-Moore 380: 30%
• Gardz: 22%

My Bugatti is in the shop.

@wdccruise, I'm not quite understanding the argument here. I've read a variety of your comments in different threads. You have a lot of knowledge and offer good advice.

Jennifer has commented on being happy with Zinsser primers for a lot of applications.

And although I have used Zinsser for a number of things, I'm personally VERY particular about my wall, trim and cabinet finishes.

On those I NEVER mix brands, & almost exclusively use Benjamin Moore products. (Example: BM Fresh Start primer: 35.8% solids)

As in any Houzz discussion, people are free to use all, some or none of the information.

[OP here] The choice of a primer on new drywall is not as clear as I had imagined.

The pro painter who worked on a neighbor's house and gave me a bid prefers to use SW or Dunn Edwards PVA primer with SW super paint for topcoat.

Ten years ago, I hired a GC to remodel another bathroom in my home. His painter used cheap primer and paint (Behr maybe, which he watered down) and it was poorly matched to the B.M. colors that I specified. There was weeping on the bathroom wall, soon after it was painted. The GC insisted that was "normal" in a bathroom.

I hired a pro to repaint that bathroom 3 years ago. He used SW Duration in a satin finish, and I have had no problems with it. He will be giving me an estimate for this bathroom.

He prefers to use Zinsser Cover Stain oil-based primer in a bathroom if the owners plan to live there for 5+ years (but recommends wearing a respirator when using this product because of the fumes). Otherwise, he would use a Zinsser water-based primer. He said that the fumes on the Kilz kitchen & bath water-based primer are as bad as the Zinsser oil-based primer.

For a topcoat, he does not like to use B.M. Aura paint because it is "thin," he says it has poor coverage, requiring more than 2 coats, even for an off-white color. He likes using SW Duration in a stain finish or eggshell finish or B.M. Regal paint, if I want a B.M. color.

I will wait to get the second estimate before deciding whether to DIY or hire a pro.

From the BM 046 Fresh Start TDS:

"The go-to for significant color change, our highest-performing, premium quality, 100% acrylic resin primer delivers maximum hide, excellent adhesion, and a uniform finish across most interior and exterior surfaces. Seals and suppresses most bleeding type stains and provides a mildew-resistant coating in a low VOC formulation."

New drywall is does not have a "color change", does not have anything to "hide", does not have "bleeding type stains" or "mildew", and is not exterior. Fresh Start is also $50/gallon...for primer.

As for NEVER mixing brands, what's the logic? It eliminates from consideration every product from a manufacturer that does not also make a top coat, no matter how good it is.

Boco: "Level 4 job is getting a pva primer? You should upgrade to a primer/sealer with some body (high solids)."

PVA primers in general are lower solids than other primers:

Boco is suggesting that they should use something other than a PVA primer. Something with better hide. I don't know that I agree, but BM 380 has a lower solid content than 123. Your main concern with brand new drywall is that the mud at the seams will have a duller finish than the non mudded paper. How well does each seal the mud?

Gardz uses a different chemistry to seal than other primers. It looks like watered down milk when you apply it and it dries clear. It is not meant to hide stains, it is designed specifically to seal a surface, including many stains that tend to bleed through other primers. There is no Titanium Dioxide (Opaque White pigment).

It isn't just the %Solids by volume that matter, it is the chemistry creating the seal over the drywall mud that is preventing flashing.

While your Bugatti is in the shop, my Toyota is getting me across town.

I have very good reason to paint ceilings first and put a hairline of wall paint on the ceiling.

1 - gravity. When you paint drips are pulled downward by gravity. The ceiling is higher than the walls so if any drips happen they happen before I have painted the walls and aren't landing on my freshly painted walls.

2 - vision. Our eyes are on the front of our heads and we see things based on a horizontal line of sight.

Every time I look across a room I see the full wall and will see any paint that is on the wall, even a hairline of paint that is ceiling paint. It may have a straight line, but I will still see it. The only time I will see the hairline on the ceiling is if I am standing by a wall looking up at the ceiling.

[OP here] The choice of a primer on new drywall is not as clear as I had imagined.

It is not something that every one agrees on - 40 different people - 40 different answers - some well thought out, some just because it is what they have always done.

The pro painter who worked on a neighbor's house and gave me a bid prefers to use SW or Dunn Edwards PVA primer with SW super paint for topcoat. SW super paint is less expensive in comparison to better lines, SW also tends to give better discounts to the pros than BM, so using their lower priced paint with their discount allows them to bid jobs at a lower cost. Super Paint is a vinyl acrylic - not designed for wet areas.

I would not go with SW Super paint for a topcoat - Emerald or Duration if using SW.

Regal Select or Aura if using BM.

Ten years ago, I hired a GC to remodel another bathroom in my home. His painter used cheap primer and paint (Behr maybe, which he watered down) and it was poorly matched to the B.M. colors that I specified. There was weeping on the bathroom wall, soon after it was painted. The GC insisted that was "normal" in a bathroom.

It is normal in a bathroom if you are not using a higher quality paint. Aura would be my choice if I wanted a matte finish in a bathroom or if I was going with a dark color. Dark colors show weeping lines more easily than pastels. I generally use an eggshell finish and light to mid-toned colors and run my fan. Have not had issues with Regal Select, Emerald or Duration.

I also make sure to allow a bathroom at least several days / up to 1 week to cure before I steam it up using the shower.

I hired a pro to repaint that bathroom 3 years ago. He used SW Duration in a satin finish, and I have had no problems with it. He will be giving me an estimate for this bathroom.

He prefers to use Zinsser Cover Stain oil-based primer in a bathroom if the owners plan to live there for 5+ years (but recommends wearing a respirator when using this product because of the fumes). Otherwise, he would use a Zinsser water-based primer. He said that the fumes on the Kilz kitchen & bath water-based primer are as bad as the Zinsser oil-based primer.

This is a good primer and he is guaranteeing his results - wouldn't argue.

For a topcoat, he does not like to use B.M. Aura paint because it is "thin," he says it has poor coverage, requiring more than 2 coats, even for an off-white color. He likes using SW Duration in a stain finish or eggshell finish or B.M. Regal paint, if I want a B.M. color.

I wouldn't say that Aura is thin or takes more coats to get good coverage, but it can be more difficult to work with and can leave roller marks if you don't move fast and keep your edges wet.

Aura 350-400 Sf per gallon - wet film thickness 4.0-4.6 mils wet - 1.9-2.1 dry

Regal 400-450 Sf per gallon - wet film thickness 3.6-4.0 mils wet - 1.6-1.8 dry

Emerald 350-400 Sf per gallon - wet film thickness 4.0 mils wet - 1.6 dry

Duration 350-400 Sf per gallon - wet film thickness 4.0 mils wet - 1.6 dry

All are formulated for use in wet areas (bathrooms).