I forgot to add an elevation sketch. This is Plan A with the lighted mirror. To make this option work, I would need to fur out the vanity wall about an inch or so to be able to put blocking on the back side of the electric subpanel.

I'd be inclined to a 36 " mirror, tall rectangle or round and have 9 inches both sides for wall mounted sconces, generally about 60-66 above floor level for mount, depending style That is because I loathe the dangles hanging at face level on the sides. I'd add two recessed, not more than four inches diameter to the ceiling above.

Hope that medicine cabinet on left is being "disappeared", !!?

Thirty six inches centered is all the view you need.

Why those legs on that door/drawer style for the vanity? Country meets .....what?

More posts do not get better help.

@JAN MOYER,

Your response has been just the help I needed!

I have decided on only a vanity mirror, with no sidelights.

I will look for a 36-inch wide mirror that is tall enough to avoid mounting screws into the back of the electrical subpanel.

About three weeks ago, two recessed, 4-inch diameter lights were added in the ceiling, centered over the vanity. At the same time, I added wiring for a surface-mounted 8-inch diameter shaving mirror on an articulated arm (on the wall to the left of the vanity).

I think that will provide adequate lighting. There is natural lighting from a window and a sun tunnel (which has a solar-powered night light).

The dangling pendants (Plan C) are off the table because they are annoying and because they would block light coming from the recessed lights.

Sconces (Plan B) are rejected because the subpanel prevents mounting them symmetrically on either side of a mirror.

The medicine cabinet was removed about four weeks ago and the recessed space is planned to be drywalled over in the next week or so.

Screws?

It is a MAN thing, to bolt pictures or mirror to a wall like an earthquake was imminent, ...

"Standard picture hooks with thin brad nails are designed specifically for drywall. When driven at a 45-degree angle, a 1.5-inch nail can hold up to 20 pounds. The paper facing on drywall helps prevent the nail from pulling downward over time."

Stop agonizing on the sub panel behind drywall to hang a mirror..................

...No mirror you need should need more than two 20 lb hooks, spaced to maintain a level mirror and no constant adjustment when cleaning that mirror

We live in an area with high seismic activity. We've had four earthquakes in the past week; 31 earthquakes in the past month.

Another option for the mirror is to have my glazier install a large frameless, beveled mirror that rests on the stone backsplash and is glued to the drywall (they no longer use clips). She suggested that I add a light above the mirror (on the same wall switch as recessed ceiling lights). This is what was there previously, but without pot lights.

I am leaning more toward a smaller mirror (maybe with metal trim) that is hung with French cleats.

Do you think I will need extra lighting on the wall above the mirror?