If this goes sideways for you, I have 2 very good fabricators I can recommend in LA. All my countertops in LA were 2 cm with a laminated edge and they looked good and functioned well, in a house I remodeled completely over 10 years.

Chispa, who do you recommend?

Chispa, did you have 2 cm of slab at the sink? What is the finished thickness of your laminated edges? Thank you.

@Jeanette Mieko, turn on messaging in your profile and I will send you their names.

We sold that house and moved out of state, so I don't remember exact finished thickness, but I think it was just doubling up the 2 cm. Edge is laminated or built-up and not mitered.

Yes, just 2 cm at the sink.

This was a Spanish style house, so the slightly rounded edge made sense. Slight pencil/eased edge at the sink.

Photo showing details.

That looks nice. I turned on messaging. Thank you.

So, taking a moment to consider the 2 cm + plywood option with the local vendor:

I just read this on Reddit (so who knows ?)...

"2 cm stone fully bonded to a continuous plywood subtop with a laminated 4cm (1-1/2") edge is usually the more sturdy and forgiving system compared to 3 cm granite set directly on cabinet perimeter rails."

*Not sure the same applies for quartz (synthetic), but can anyone comment on that qoute?

*Is laminated better than Mitered? I read that it can add strength since it doesn't take 45 degrees off the top?

*This OTHER vendor/ fabricator (not Lowes) who does 2cm and plywood says he CANNOT do a 1 inch radius outside MITERED corners which I would like. He said only 1/4" radius. Is this true of all mitered corners - no outer corner radius bigger than 1/4"? Is it different for laminated?

edit...I just read from older post and Joseph Corlett wrote: "It is the edge profile, not the construction, that contributes to chipping." I want a quarter round(top only) edge profile.

Having used the same material (Taj Mahal quartzite) for two kitchens, one with 2 cm slabs on plywood with laminated edge and one with 3 cm slabs set directly on cabinets, I can say that there is no difference to the homeowner.

The truth is, if I wasn't into design and hadn't designed my kitchens/bathrooms for a remodel and a new build, I wouldn't have noticed the difference between the 2 cm or 3 cm installations.

Ask the average person who bought an existing house if they have 2 cm or 3 cm counters, or if they have a plywood base. Most will have no clue what you are asking!

A sharp pointy edge profile will chip more easily compared to a more rounded profile ... doesn't matter if it is mitered or laminated.

Sent you a message with the two names!

I wished I had either of those guys to work on my FL house! Luckily I kept things very simple in the new house, because the guy I used in FL was not at the same level of craftsmanship.

First guy - made a curved and arched trim piece out of flat 2 cm quartz to frame the shower door.

Second guy - made a 3 dimensional fireplace surround out of flat 2 cm limestone.

""2 cm stone fully bonded to a continuous plywood subtop with a laminated 4cm (1-1/2") edge is usually the more sturdy and forgiving system compared to 3 cm granite set directly on cabinet perimeter rails."

*Not sure the same applies for quartz (synthetic), but can anyone comment on that qoute?"

The person who wrote that quote doesn't know what they're talking about. Plywood under stone is a spacer only; it has little structural strength. And full bonding is a particularly bad idea considering how differently the materials move. I can't imagine a better way to pull a seam apart than by two pieces of shrinking plywood pulling against each other.

You have to accommodate the movement of dissimilar movement in materials; it cannot be fought. Set your tops on dime-sized dabs of silicone spaced every 18" or so, no matter the thickness or the substrate.

Jeanette:

Get your concerns acknowledged in writing, then trust your crew. That sink can be pulled a little each way to get the reveals perfect.

Thank you so much, Joseph Corlett, for both comments. I appreciate your words to trust the crew, I think this is the right advice. It is Lowes, but I've been pleased that this fabricator, so far, has been open to discuss things in precise terms.

If you have a few minutes, I have a query below. Or, just skip to the bottom gratitude comment.

Can you tell me how much sink lip is required for the countertop slab to rest on? I want to ask for 3/8" instead of 1/4" reveal and the sink ledge (flange) is only 3/4" wide on top. I will, of course, ask the fabricator. My sink is irregular and I thought I would widen the reveal to allow for the reveal to not narrow too much.

I feel reassured about pulling the sink a little left and right. As for front and back, there is a drawer that pulls out in front of the sink that does not allow much play to pull the sink forward, it clears the sink by less than 1/4 inch. I will write an email to the installer about this limitation and any other concerns.

Gratitude...

Your level of expertise and willingness to share it with the Houzz public is inspiring. I've read many of your comments, and anecdotes, and been educated often, amused at other times and prompted to be more vigilant or more relaxed, depending on the concern. Viewing your installs, is seeing art and practicality combined. Btw, I love these SS sinks you show with the back faucet plate built in.

Jeanette:

As long as you have 3/8" or so between the sink top and the stone bottom, your reveal will be fine.